Speed Control

recoveryjones

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've learned a lot about pool the last few years from books, videos,this forum and long hours of hard practice doing various drills.My game has improved considerably as a result.I was obsessed with spinning the ball, using english on a way too many shots. My specialty is check sidings.While some shots look impressive, they are not condusive to winning pool.In Phil Cappelles book "play your best nine ball" he states that most pro's only spin the ball on 20 percent of their shots.Does anyone agree with Phil's analyses.

I've learned a lot of the angles,shape routes,however, I'm still enthusiastic to learn much more. I want to get around the table with as little english as possible.I spent two years obbsessed with english, now I need to spend perhaps an equal amount of time learning to get around the table without it.I'd like to pull in out and use it only when I need to get back on line.Everyone knows that running english increases the speed coming off the rails, while check english does the opposite, at least off the first rail.In summary speed control is much easier when done without factoring in english.

When I attempt to run out a table and my run ends prematurally, it's usually because of speed control first, wrong angle of approach second and missing the pot third.Jose Paricia once said that most players who practice drills practice everything except speed control. In the article featuring Jose, he stated that he rarely saw anyone practice it.

If anyone can suggest some good drills for speed control, that would be appreciated.Feel free to illustrate on the Wei table. Also your thought's on using english and Phil's 20% factor or this topic in general would be appreciated and interesting.In your game, what percentage of shots do you use english and how succesful are you?Do you feel that perhaps like me you might be using too much, too often?RJ

ps. Earl Strickland said, "The pro's win because they spin the ball."I'm glad to some extent, I've learned to do so, however, I would like to win more often.
 
Honestly, i would think it all depends on how the table is layed out after the break.

I usta be the same way always using low english thinking it was the way to go. But after practicing using high english and left/right english have learn'd from my errors.

Now in a perfect world all over our shots would be stop shots straight in :)

I myself only use english when its needed, to get around the table for position.

As for the pro's using english only 20% of the time, i find that difficult to believe. Because if your going around the table running the rack, your obviously 95% of the time comming off a rail and getting position.

now it may not look like the pro's are using english, but i would bet money the use it alot more that you think. Its just done so naturally by all the pro's that everyone else doesnt give it a second glance.

If there was a match on TV and they did close up's of the cue hitting the CB, you would see they are not hitting the CB for a stop shot all the time.
 
We have a lesson designed specifically for Speed Control! It's fascinating how it works and is easily applied to any shot on the table. This can be seen in the Instructional DVD's that we sell.
If you're interested, contact me here or email at michael@zimsrack.com.

Thanks and good luck,
Zim
 
StormHotRod300 said:
you would see they are not hitting the CB for a stop shot all the time.

i apologize in advance if the following is something you already know, but it seems that you're a little confused on what is being said.

i'm guessing from the above statement that you are putting follow and draw in the category of "english".

"english" is sidespin, left or righthand spin

when the term "center ball" is used, it encompasses stop, follow, and draw.

so when capelle says "pro's use english 20 percent of the time" he means that pro players use stop, follow, and draw 80 percent of the time.

if you watch pro players, they usually leave enough angle that they do not need to add any sidespin to attain position because the cue ball takes on a natural spin after contact with the object ball.

some of them (such as earl) prefer to spin the ball in at times. this is called "helping english".

i myself, on average use sidespin about once each rack.......so that would be close to the 20 percent as mentioned above.

VAP
 
StormHotRod300 said:
I usta be the same way always using low english thinking it was the way to go. But after practicing using high english and left/right english have learn'd from my errors.

.

contrary to this statement, most shots in 9 ball are shot with a little below center or lower. watch any advanced to pro level player, most of their shots are stun, and draw shots.

and also, as i stated before, there is no "high english" that is follow and is considered a center ball hit.

english is only left or right hand spin.

sounds like you may need to hit the books and the practice table a little harder :p

VAP
 
Last edited:
StormHotRod300 said:
Now in a perfect world all over our shots would be stop shots straight in :)

I personally would hate to have ALL STRAIGHT IN SHOTS! That would make it a little difficult to move the CB around the table for position.

Zim
 
Zims Rack said:
I personally would hate to have ALL STRAIGHT IN SHOTS! That would make it a little difficult to move the CB around the table for position.

Zim

But....if you have all straight-in stop shots, you don't NEED to move the cueball around...just stop it every shot and you're in position for the next shot. The only problem with that is that it will never happen unless you set the balls up that way. :)
 
GeraldG said:
But....if you have all straight-in stop shots, you don't NEED to move the cueball around...just stop it every shot and you're in position for the next shot. The only problem with that is that it will never happen unless you set the balls up that way. :)


I've had this happen in 8-ball after opponent ran 7 and missed. Just pick the correct order. Would be a real fluk in 9-ball.
 
vapoolplayer said:
"english" is sidespin, left or righthand spin

when the term "center ball" is used, it encompasses stop, follow, and draw.

so when capelle says "pro's use english 20 percent of the time" he means that pro players use stop, follow, and draw 80 percent of the time.

if you watch pro players, they usually leave enough angle that they do not need to add any sidespin to attain position because the cue ball takes on a natural spin after contact with the object ball.

VAP


I agree with this assessment. Personally, I'm always looking for the correct angles for the next couple of shots and use more draw, follow, or center. You can move the ball all over the table just about anywhere you want staying on the vertical axis. However, what nobody mentioned up to this point is the AMOUNT of english or tip offset required to move the ball around. If you have an efficient powerful stroke, you don't need but 1/4 -1/2 tip of offset to do what you need to do. Maybe, and only maybe, 1 tip.

You can go to any poolroom and you'll see hacks so far off center using extreme english on every shot that it's ridiculous. This is also where the deflection/squirt issue is multiplied and misses occur because of it. It's also why "PREDATOR" arguments come in. You just don't NEED that much english to move the shit out of the ball and also stay away from excess squirt.
 
recoveryjones said:
I've learned a lot about pool the last few years from books, videos,this forum and long hours of hard practice doing various drills.My game has improved considerably as a result.I was obsessed with spinning the ball, using english on a way too many shots. My specialty is check sidings.While some shots look impressive, they are not condusive to winning pool.In Phil Cappelles book "play your best nine ball" he states that most pro's only spin the ball on 20 percent of their shots.Does anyone agree with Phil's analyses.

I've learned a lot of the angles,shape routes,however, I'm still enthusiastic to learn much more. I want to get around the table with as little english as possible.I spent two years obbsessed with english, now I need to spend perhaps an equal amount of time learning to get around the table without it.I'd like to pull in out and use it only when I need to get back on line.Everyone knows that running english increases the speed coming off the rails, while check english does the opposite, at least off the first rail.In summary speed control is much easier when done without factoring in english.

When I attempt to run out a table and my run ends prematurally, it's usually because of speed control first, wrong angle of approach second and missing the pot third.Jose Paricia once said that most players who practice drills practice everything except speed control. In the article featuring Jose, he stated that he rarely saw anyone practice it.

If anyone can suggest some good drills for speed control, that would be appreciated.Feel free to illustrate on the Wei table. Also your thought's on using english and Phil's 20% factor or this topic in general would be appreciated and interesting.In your game, what percentage of shots do you use english and how succesful are you?Do you feel that perhaps like me you might be using too much, too often?RJ

ps. Earl Strickland said, "The pro's win because they spin the ball."I'm glad to some extent, I've learned to do so, however, I would like to win more often.

I covered Speed Control in my newsletter a few months ago. Here is the Link:

Speed Control

Hope that answers some of your questions.
 
Blackjack said:
I covered Speed Control in my newsletter a few months ago. Here is the Link:

Speed Control

Hope that answers some of your questions.


Blackjack...when did you start compiling all of this and putting it into writing...when you were still out on the road or after. When you were out on the road, what was your primary focus while playing? Mechanical thoughts...nerve calming thoughts...attitudinal thoughts...or strategical thinking? All of this, that is, after just thinking about setting up the right match and the woofing that goes with it, maybe that's where the MOST thought always belongs.
 
drivermaker said:
If you have an efficient powerful stroke, you don't need but 1/4 -1/2 tip of offset to do what you need to do. Maybe, and only maybe, 1 tip.

.

i love letting people use the elephant cue ball.........LOL

they think they are going so far on the outside of the cue ball, but they are always inside the circle which is about the size of a quarter. most people who think they are using extreme sidespin, really don't.

with a good developed stroke, 1 tip of sidespin will send the cue spinning like crazy if you're not careful.

VAP
 
RJ--

I too used to spin the hell out of whitey, and still do on some shots. Usually unnecessary. I too have recently learned the wonders of stun, centerball shots, and I think when you learn this, accuracy is greatly improved. I have been watching ALOT of pro 9 ball lately (mainly WPC 04), and "most" of the shots played by the world beaters are centerball, 1/4 or 1/2 tip of english and playing the angles with good speed control. I haven't read Capelle, so I don't know about that. It seems his assesment is FAIRLY accurate. I can think of a couple of speed control drills, but of course, it's not hard to make up your own.

Play all of the balls into either corner pocket, staying above the line. Use as little english as possible, stunning off the side rails. The side pockets make this one interesting.
http://onepocket.org/table/pooltable2.html
START(
%Aa5E1%Ba3K1%Ca0Y8%Da1S7%Ea5G2%Fa2O6%GB7\0%Ha4I2%Ia2M4%JB2\8
%Ka0W6%LB8]0%Ma1Q7%Na1U5%OB9[6%PZ8F4%Uq8D4%Vb3E3%W_7E4%X[8F1
%Y[5H8%Z_0D0%[`2D2%\`7D7
)END

Blackjack also has a few really good ones, or like I said, make up your own.

Good luck with it.

~DC
 
recoveryjones said:
... If anyone can suggest some good drills for speed control, that would be appreciated.Feel free to illustrate on the Wei table. Also your thought's on using english and Phil's 20% factor or this topic in general would be appreciated and interesting...
Speed drills are in the free handout on the SFBA web site.

Here is another: set up an easy shot. Roll two dice to determine where you have to put the cue ball. The first die gives the distance from the long rail, the second the distance from the short rail. (There are various ways to make sure the whole table is covered.) Place the dice on the position goal. Shoot the shot and put the cue ball within a hand span of the goal. Better than dice are three decks of playing cards which can cover the whole table in half-diamond steps, but they cost more unless you have access to old decks.

As far as how often top players use side spin on the ball, I think it depends on the style of the player, but I'd guess that the 20% number is low. If you have tapes of matches, it should be pretty easy to just count the shots, if you can tell the spin from the action of the cue ball.
 
crawdaddio said:
I like the dice idea Bob, I'm gonna have to try that one.

Thanks
~DC


Do you really think the dice thing is a good idea? It might trigger an internet dice game challenge.... btw, you got PayPal?
 
I've been working very hard on learning speed control. It *REALLY* helps and comes in quite handy.

Last night I had an "L" shaped shot. One object ball to shoot into the corner at the top of the "L" then needed to draw the cue ball back exactly to the bottom of the "L" (1 ft. draw back) to line up to shoot a ball into the side. My opponent's balls were all still on the table (8-ball) and were in the way except for this shot. Well I easily drew the cue ball back the exact amount needed. My opponent said good draw, I didn't think it was anything special.

And I can have an upside down "L" shot where I need to shoot a ball into the far corner pocket (object ball and cue ball are at near end of table), but leave the cue ball at the far end of the table to make a shot into the opposite corner pocket. I can now usually use just enough follow to leave the cue ball at the far end.

And of course judging how much force to use to leave the cue ball somewhere after if hits a couple of rails.

I have practiced speed control by doing the following...

1. Throw all 15 balls out on the table at random or break them. Then shoot each shot so the object ball goes just up to the pocket, but does not drop. I have learned by doing this how slowly I can hit various shots to just make the pocket. This comes in very handy when you don't want the cue ball to roll very far after your shot. Also I have learned that a full ball shot takes very little speed to make the pocket, but a thin cut takes quite a bit of speed to make the pocket.

2. Just cue ball on table. Shoot cue ball so it travels 1/2 diamond and stops (not easy). Then 1 diamond. Then 2, 3, 4, 5 diamonds. Then to far rail and stop. Then to far rail and back one diamond. Then far rail and back 2, 3, 4, etc. Then far rail and back to near rail and stop (lag shot). Then far rail and back to near rail and 1 diamond. Then 2, 3, 4, etc. This practice is frustrating, but well worth the effort.

3. Draw: Line up row of balls across table. Cue ball 1 diamond back. Shoot first ball into corner with stun (cue ball stops). 2nd ball - draw cue ball back 1/2 diamond. 3rd draw cue ball back 1 diamond. 4th draw back 1 1/2 diamonds. 5th draw back 2 diamonds. Etc. Last ball, draw back with maximum draw - see how far you can draw the ball. (This practice comes in very handy when you need to draw the cue ball back a specific distance. Hint: It really helps for drawing accuracy to keep an exact radius on your tip, have a consistent tip surface, and chalk well before each shot, especially sides of tip.)

4. Follow: Object ball near long rail and at one end of table, cue ball one diamond back. Shoot ball into far corner so cue ball stops where object ball was. Then line up balls again and shoot OB into same corner pocket but cue ball goes 1/2 diamond past where OB was. Then again and CB goes 1 diamond past where OB was. Then 2,3, 4, 5, etc. Last ball, use force follow and see how far you can get the cue ball to follow after the shot. (This is probably the most handy thing I have ever practiced. It is great to be able to leave the cue ball where the OB was, or half way down the table, or at the far end of the table - at will.)
 
drivermaker said:
Blackjack...when did you start compiling all of this and putting it into writing...when you were still out on the road or after. When you were out on the road, what was your primary focus while playing? Mechanical thoughts...nerve calming thoughts...attitudinal thoughts...or strategical thinking? All of this, that is, after just thinking about setting up the right match and the woofing that goes with it, maybe that's where the MOST thought always belongs.

Drivermaker,
Before I met Tony Ellin I never knew that I had the ability to teach this game. Tony and I got into a long conversation about concentration on a car trip and after I stopped talking (I must have went nonstop for 30 minutes) Tony turned to me and said, "You should write this stuff down."

That's how it all started. Prior to that, I never had any intention of being an instructor, a coach, or an author. At this point I want to be remembered as a player that had the ability to pass knowledge along in an "easy to understand" way. My ambition was always to be one of the great players, but I can live with competent instructor. Also, I'm not BCA certified, nor do I ever care to be. I'm not knocking the BCA, I just enjoy the freedom of doing my coaching and instruction the way I want to do it and incorporating an innovative approach to attacking the mental game during my instruction.

My primary focus while playing on the road was choosing my battles carefully. I never worked alone, my partner did the talking and I shot the balls in the subway. Back then it was easy to operate in stealth mode. These days you win money in Kalamazoo, and before the sun rises, people in Brazil know about it.

As far as my mental attitude in competition, I was trained very well as a young player. Cisero Murphy always told me that while I am playing - anything that happens outisde the playing surface of the table should be ignored. Pretend its not there - concentrate on what you have to do to run out. I saw a lot of players crumble because they were intimidated by the moment, the money, the side bets, the eyes of the railbirds, etc. None of those things are designed to block balls from going into the pockets, but they did motivate me to put the balls into the pockets. By this, I am saying that I would feed off the pressure. Some guys would cave in to the pressure - even some top players. On the road, I learned very quickly that it is not always the best player that will win; it's the guy that best deals with the pressure of the situation. A lot of players on the road make the mistake of biting off more than they could chew, and pay for it. For me, it was not about conquering the entire world, it was about knowing where I could win and against whom, as opposed to aimlessly setting myself up for failure. The links below are to writings that expose my methodology while on the road.

Gone Fishin

Human Moves
 
Back
Top