Squaring Point Wood

M

Mase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am wondering if I am missing an easy way of squaring my point wood before I veneer it.

Currently I am using two methods. I use a jointer/planer and take a couple cuts to flatten the bottom. I then hold that flattened side against the back of the JP and flatten the next side and then continue on until all 4 sides are done and square.

The second is to put the wood in my lathe and flatten the sides by cutting each side with my router and indexing 90% at a time. The router I use only takes 1/4 cutters and one long enough to flatten a side vibrates some and gives me small indentations that I then have to sand out.

With both of these methods I like to use 11/2" squares so when I cut the point material off, I still can make a forearm or handle out of it.

Although both of these methods work I am not 100% happy with either. I look forward to your suggestions.
 
I haven't tried to attach any veneers to point squares yet, I'm just trying to get good 90 degree angles that will sit in the vee-grooves nicely. I use a belt sander and just sand and sand until I get there. I would think that the thickness planer you have would the cat's meow.
 
I took my belt sander to my local welder had him atatch a fence on it just like Hightower explans in his book. It works perfect. Best $30 I've spent so far.

Dustin
 
Mase said:
I am wondering if I am missing an easy way of squaring my point wood before I veneer it.

Currently I am using two methods. I use a jointer/planer and take a couple cuts to flatten the bottom. I then hold that flattened side against the back of the JP and flatten the next side and then continue on until all 4 sides are done and square.

The second is to put the wood in my lathe and flatten the sides by cutting each side with my router and indexing 90% at a time. The router I use only takes 1/4 cutters and one long enough to flatten a side vibrates some and gives me small indentations that I then have to sand out.

With both of these methods I like to use 11/2" squares so when I cut the point material off, I still can make a forearm or handle out of it.

Although both of these methods work I am not 100% happy with either. I look forward to your suggestions.
Click to expand...

I use a small 4 inch craftsman joiner and it does it perfectly every time. I am not sure how you could get a better result, they are perfect and it is easy. It is a self contained little machine that can just be kept in a drawer and set up when you need it. I had very poor luck when I used to try sanding.
 
I made a holder like the one that Bob Dzuricky has on his web-site mounted on my CNC table. I use a piece of 3 quarter material and with a 3/4 router bit plane all four sides. I then cut this at an angle and bias on the band saw and get 4 points. Years ago I tried to do it once on a joiner as was recommended by Dennis Diekman and it about scared me to death and I ain't scared of nothing. Those blades spinning that fast and all the noise and my fingers a half inch away holding the material down and against the fence was more than I could handle twice.

Dick
 
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macguy said:
I use a small 4 inch craftsman joiner and it does it perfectly every time. I am not sure how you could get a better result, they are perfect and it is easy. It is a self contained little machine that can just be kept in a drawer and set up when you need it. I had very poor luck when I used to try sanding.
Click to expand...

Can you offer a part# for the unit you're using? Thanks!
 
macguy said:
I use a small 4 inch craftsman joiner and it does it perfectly every time. I am not sure how you could get a better result, they are perfect and it is easy. It is a self contained little machine that can just be kept in a drawer and set up when you need it. I had very poor luck when I used to try sanding.
Click to expand...
I use a small jointer/planer as well. Once you get the fence at a perfect 90 to the bed, it's very easy to get all 4 sides perfectly flat and square to each other. WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!! I speak from experience :frown: . I use a block that I made so my fingers are NEVER in danger.:grin-square:
 
d_flash said:
I know that I will get grief for suggesting this, but it is what I use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34434

>

d_flash...no need to spend high dollars to do an equal job.
Click to expand...

Why would you expect grief? I don't use H/F tools for tools that I often use. I buy the best. However, I've spent an awful lot of money at H/F buying stuff that is not used often nor has to be perfectly accurate. As much as that tool would be used in the shop there's a good chance that it may last you a lifetime and will do as good a job as an expensive one probably. The blades probably won't stay sharp quite as long nor the motor last as long, but, long enough.

Dick
 
Cheez Dawg said:
I use a small jointer/planer as well. Once you get the fence at a perfect 90 to the bed, it's very easy to get all 4 sides perfectly flat and square to each other. WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!! I speak from experience :frown: . I use a block that I made so my fingers are NEVER in danger.:grin-square:
Click to expand...
The fence that comes on these small machines are usually a little flimsy.
I beefed up the fence a little with a 1/4 inch piece of aluminum plate cut to size and bolted on, then I just get it close and do a few trial and error cuts till it's perfect and thats it.
 
> Would using a HSS tool in a single-wing flycutter in a mill be of any use,using the traditional method of squaring a block (cut one side,rotate 90 degrees toward back jaw,repeat)? Even better,I bet those aluminum inserts talked about here would be dynamite in the right toolholder using this method.

My only possible concern would be the width of the vise jaws.

Of course,the head and vise would need to be indicated dead-nuts,but how much trouble can that be for someone that makes cues? Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> Would using a HSS tool in a single-wing flycutter in a mill be of any use,using the traditional method of squaring a block (cut one side,rotate 90 degrees toward back jaw,repeat)? Even better,I bet those aluminum inserts talked about here would be dynamite in the right toolholder using this method.

My only possible concern would be the width of the vise jaws.

Of course,the head and vise would need to be indicated dead-nuts,but how much trouble can that be for someone that makes cues? Tommy D.
Click to expand...

I tried a 3 cutter face mill in a mill on some Ebony once and it did a very poor job. I don't know if the rpms weren't fast enough for wood or not sharp enough or what.

Dick
 
> I had to make a flycutter in class. Mine is made for a slip-fit with a 5/16 HSS blank,although I use the AR6 (3/8 shank) brazed carbide,milled down to fit. The shank can be made to any specs,mine had to be a real tight tolerance (+.000,-.001,mine was .7499 with 3 diff mikes) for a 3/4 R8 collet. It works sweet for squaring metal blocks,and thought it would have applications here. Travers sells a 3 pc set for like 50 bucks. Tommy D.
 
rhncue said:
I made a holder like the one that Bob Dzuricky has on his web-site mounted on my CNC table. I use a piece of 3 quarter material and with a 3/4 router bit plane all four sides. I then cut this at an angle and bias on the band saw and get 4 points. Years ago I tried to do it once on a joiner as was recommended by Dennis Diekman and it about scared me to death and I ain't scared of nothing. Those blades spinning that fast and all the noise and my fingers a half inch away holding the material down and against the fence was more than I could handle twice.

Dick
Click to expand...
That what push sticks are for.
 
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