AMEN!!! :grin:
Stabilized Maple Burl
- Thread starter meridianblades
- Start date
AMEN!!! :grin:
I probably shouldn't say too much since this is a "sales thread", but I'm not sure who did the stabilizing on the pieces you thought were plastic like. Also the cracking makes me think that this material was not done professionally. The finished product should not be brittle.... I use end grain cut materials all the time and have dropped a few pieces on the shop floor without any problems, and these are pieces cut thin to .375 thickness. I have tried many many different companies who provide this service and there is a huge difference in quality amongst them.
There are guys out there using old pickle jars and kitchen vacuum sealers with Minwax wood hardener and then selling the stuff as "stabilized".... that isnt the case with my materials. You can also tell from the pics that these are not "seconds", these are high end burls. If you're interested in more info on the materials for sale send me a PM or I can comment in a different thread on stabilizing if someone wants to start it off.
Far as getting some wood out there for people to try.... maybe a give away is in order? I dunno how that would work here tho. :grin:
Give away! I will take one!!!
I think Mr. Webb was talking about sound. Not wood cracking.
Larry
I think Mr. Webb was talking about sound. Not wood cracking.
Larry
Aaah that makes more sense.... Thanks for the clarification Larry. -Larry
** Yeah I could maybe do a free drawing or something, but not sure the rules allow that.
13 X / Y and 11.75 are SPF....thanks
So maybe a giveaway like this is within the rules.... Here's a piece of buckeye burl, that's 12.5" long and is stabilized. Its about 1.375 on one end and 1.5 on the other, and it has a little pocket towards the end. (see pics)
Take the last 2 pieces of spalted maple and it's yours
Take the last 2 pieces of spalted maple and it's yours
Hi Larry
Nope, I was talking about actually cracking. It was some resin impregnated from Wild woods years ago. Which has nothing to do with this, but, and this is just my opinion so I hope that no one takes offence to it. but anytime any wood is altered, then that wood, I would especially core if for nothing else, Peace of mind.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the explanation. That should not happen. Like I said, even end grain should not be so brittle it cracks. On the other side of the coin, you should also not be able to dent it with your thumb nail either. Physical cracking....That is not stabilized properly IMO. I have put stabilized wood thru some pretty rough environments.... (beyond anything a cue would see) without worry. I stabilize all burls with few exceptions.... wild grain, movement, softness, no raised grain, scope of woods that can be used. Its worth the expense and work IMO. I have also been told by several cuemakers that stabilized wood should be cored.
Side note...In the last few years a well known production knife company did a run of spalted maple handles (1000's of handles) Wood was pinned to the side of the steel. Never stabilized the maple. Handles shrunk, swelled, cracked, etc depending on environment they were sent. Some of the knives arrived like that. They had to spend a lot of money replacing those handles and making it right. -Larry
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One more look at the sweet spalted, and then chop, chop, chop.... These may end up on some new kitchen blades. I have an order for (big and small chef/santuko and steak blades). Thanks for lookin.
