Stambolini questions

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I have a question about my personal cue. It's a 'stambolini' made by adams I believe. It's about 17 years old and is in need of a refinish, so I picked it up today(I haven't played with it in about 3 years) and was looking at it when I noticed a buzz when I struck the forearm with my palm. The shaft wasn't attached and the weight bolt was in tight but I removed it and tried it again, still buzzed. So I assume it's the A joint. I paid $300 for it back then. I have a lot of sentimental value to it so I'll be fixing it. I have 2 questions:
#1) I would like to know if anyone knows on this model, if the A joint is under the wrap, or under the inlay ring that is above the wrap? I would really hate to tear off the leather and handle, etc. to find out that the joint is actually an inch higher.
#2) Does anyone have a piece of the phenolic that was used in the joint? I want to make the shaft match it. When I bought it 17 years ago, the guy said the joint collar had discolored from being in the sunlight on the display rack. I took as best of pictures as I could and any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks,
dave
JOINT1.jpg

JOINT2.jpg

FOREARM.jpg
 
Whether the tenon points up or points down is almost irrelevant.
When a cue is cut in half, the 'A' jnt needs to be rebuilt anyway.
If you're going to cut the cue, the wrap should go. It's only going to get in the way.
You have no extra meat to work with on the cue so the reassembly needs to be perfect. Lose the wrap and it will be much easier to find the true center-line. It's just a wrap Dave, you'll appreciate the experience.
You'll want to make your cut at the top of the wrap groove rather than the bottom of the forearm. Another reason the remove the wrap.
Once you've cut the cue, you'll know the 'A' jnt construction.
You'll have to remove all the metal and start over.

It appears to be white linen melamine jnt. collar and dashes in the ring-work. Count the number of dashes, I may have the billet.
The discoloration of the collar may not be too deep, in which case you could sand it back to white.
 
KJ, it's a 16 slot ring, and now upon looking closer, the height of the slots doesn't match the ones on the shaft. My assumtion would be that this isn't the original shaft, even though I bought it brandnew. Bummer. I'm going to try sanding it first and see if, like you said, it isn't too deep. Concerning the handle, I knew the wrap has to go. It's too bad, it is a great leather and you can hardly see the seam. This will be my first handle change, I've done a forearm before that my buddie broke on his 20+ year old Viking and it came out great. Hopefully this will also. The real tricky part I think will be re-staining the forearm before I refinish it.
Dave
 
Dave, it's not necessary to get into the finish unless you want to.
And if at all possible, stay out of the stain.
Once a cue is stained, it's almost impossible to match. The orig. stain has soaked into the wood and won't completely come out.
Try to keep all your work on the forearm to the inside, well except for the jnt. collar if you're going to try and whiten it up.
If it doesn't sand-out to your satisfaction, I have the mtrl. for replacement.

I don't/didn't see any weave in the white dashes on the shaft.
It looks more to be of an acrylic.

If the buzz bothers you this much, you've got to do what you've got to do.
I'll offer you a suggestion that you might want to try before surgery.
Store the handle in your basement for a week or two outside of the case.
As wood ages, it dries. As it dries, it shrinks.
The interior wood may have shrunk away from the tenon screw by a 1/2 thou or so, causing your buzz. As wood takes on moisture again, it expands.
You may be able to put off surgery to a time when it doesn't matter.
 
I had some idle time and have started the surgury......wrap is off and the first cut has been made. I hope the patient survives :grin: I'll post some pics as it goes.
I actually noticed the buzz because I was contemplating refinishing it. It has quite a few battle scars from before I knew how to properly care for a cue. I have had it in my basement office for about a year now, not in a case, so maybe that actually caused the buzz. I'll let you know if I need the rings, thanks for the offer, and advice.
Dave
 
Dave if you do have to get into the forearm and do a refinish......

find the best one to match.........

I don't know about paint b/c of dry time but for sure if you use a CA finish you can do this.....

problem with stain like KJ said is color matching and getting it even

if its not even then b/t the layers of CA apply the stain and let it dry for a while then apply another coat of CA

you would have to use a small brush to get around the points but i've done it before and it comes out wonderful.

B/c its layered you can add it where you need it and get the color variance perfect like you like.

I got a little oil/wax somehow on that 60" cue I just sold and couldn't get it as even as i wanted on the bare wood and applied the technique i just described and winner winner chicken dinner my friend.

knowing is half the battle :thumbup::cool:

hope that helps buddy,
-Keebie
 
Well, rigth now, the old lacquer finish gives it a greenish tint which I don't like. The original stain color was a gray/black, but it now looks more greenish/blue. I will try not to disturb the stain as much as I can, as I think just a new, non yellowing finish will make it look close to original again. If it looks blotchy, I can always restain with a bit darker, or sand it down a lot and re-stain. It's my own cue, so I can live with how it comes out:). As long as it still shoots like it did....:thumbup:
Dave
 
maidenfreak said:
I have a Stam I just got. The joint collar, shaft collar and ferrule are the same color as yours. I don't have too much into the cue and could let it go pretty cheap. Let me now if your interested.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=204848&highlight=stambolini
Click to expand...

Thanks foir the link, it gave me the info so now I know which model I have,
Level 5 Julio-9. Right now, I'm not sure what I'll be doing about the joint collar. I want both joints to match, but which color is up in the air right now. I don't really want to destroy a cue to rebuild mine if It can be avoided, but thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind.

Mario, replied to pm, thanks.

Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Thanks foir the link, it gave me the info so now I know which model I have,
Level 5 Julio-9. Right now, I'm not sure what I'll be doing about the joint collar. I want both joints to match, but which color is up in the air right now. I don't really want to destroy a cue to rebuild mine if It can be avoided, but thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind.

Mario, replied to pm, thanks.

Dave
Click to expand...
I have the exact same cue, with 2 shafts for sale if you are interested :)
 
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