Starrett 8 or 12

I just helped a buddy move and install a 9ft Tucker table. We used my single 8" Starrett and the table is as dead nuts as it can be. First time I've used it to set a table up and will get a either an 8" or 12" to add to the collection in the near future.
 
buckshotshoey said:
Keep in mind you have to check many positions on the slate and get an average. An instrument that sensitive will drive you crazy if you try to get all spots perfectly level. You won't be able to do it.
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There were numerous places where the level reading was 1 graduation mark off and the balls rolled true, so thankfully we didn't chase it being perfect on the level lol.
 
This is without any adjustments.
 

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Does anyone have a guide or instructions to check to make sure a Starrett level is level.

I bought one off ebay but I don't think it's reading the same both ways

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
 
Boxcar said:
Seriously, as good as most people play pool, you can just go ahead and eyeball it.
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I have levelled tables to fine playing condition without any level at all just rolling balls slowly on the bare slates until they roll straight all directions
 
Deruki said:
I have levelled tables to fine playing condition without any level at all just rolling balls slowly on the bare slates until they roll straight all directions
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The Diamond mechanic that set up my table when it was delivered in September 2020 came by a few days ago to re-level my 9' Paragon. The weather caused some settling along the South wall of the Gameroom where the pool table is located.

Mike leveled the table and then was slow rolling balls as a final check. He had the 11, 13 and 14 and was hitting perfect pocket speed. I was sitting on the couch, not paying a lot of attention, and eventually became aware that he seemed to be going through this process for a long time. He even got a level out and checked the table again.

I started paying more attention, and he commented he just could not figure out what was going on. You'd see a couple balls roll perfectly and just drop in the pocket, and a third would roll off a bit. We finally realized it was the 14 ball rolling off every time.

Now, I had been using a set of Cyclop Ares that came complimentary with the table. I decided I wasn't going to play with my good sets until I got my stroke back. So, I pulled out an unopened set of Aramith Tournament Pro-Cup and put the others away. Boom! No more roll-off, anywhere.

So, when slow-rolling balls to check for a level table, first be sure the balls you are using are perfectly round!
 
realkingcobra said:
I fell a sleep trying to watch that!
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And Glen, although the process is very simple on a 98, I find it tedious to get right.
Maybe I'm tightening the lock nut too much. Or something else.
Maybe I'm too anal. Happily I don't need to do this but every 5 or 10 years.
Not a professional.

Just wondering. If Starrett also offered 9", 10", and 11" lengths, would any of these be better than 8"?

Just a little fun with this
 
I used an 8" Starrett at RKC's direction and leveled my GC4 without chasing my tail at all. That also could have been because he was on the phone with me the entire time.

My smooth-brain thinks that it would be easy enough to turn an 8" level into any length level by placing it on top of a (known parallel) level of whatever length desired. I suppose this could work the other way around as well though (12" level on top of an 8" level)?
 
3kushn said:
And Glen, although the process is very simple on a 98, I find it tedious to get right.
Maybe I'm tightening the lock nut too much. Or something else.
Maybe I'm too anal. Happily I don't need to do this but every 5 or 10 years.
Not a professional.

Just wondering. If Starrett also offered 9", 10", and 11" lengths, would any of these be better than 8"?

Just a little fun with this
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Nope, because when your level is just long enough to sit in the sweet spot between levelers, it gives a more accurate reading, sensitive to the adjustment of the levelers. Longer levels tend to sit on top of the levelers, therfore less sensitive to adjustment changes.
 
realkingcobra said:
Nope, because when your level is just long enough to sit in the sweet spot between levelers, it gives a more accurate reading, sensitive to the adjustment of the levelers. Longer levels tend to sit on top of the levelers, therfore less sensitive to adjustment changes.
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I totally get that longer levels reduce knowing the truth. I also get that shorter levels can drive a person nuts.

If we're talking about brand new or well kept 20 year old tables, that's one thing, but what about an old T-Rail that didn't have levelers and machining wasn't 21st Century, maybe not even 20th.

Lastly, Is Slate that flexible I need to worry about avoiding pins.
Your description sounds like a leveler can telegraph its position and throw off a reading.
 
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