Strange Leveling Issue

[banditgrrr]

I have a Dynamo bar table that's a 1 piece slate with 4 adjustable feet. I'm using a Starett 6" level. I've followed instructions here and the level seems to be calibrated when I rotate it 180 degrees on a level surface. I started by leveling the 3.5" side first (measurements 1, 2, 3). As you can see, all 3 readings seem to be pretty level. Then when I go the length of the table, the area by the spot says it's level and it gets progressively worse as I approach the rail between pockets A & D. Measurement 4 seems level, #5 between the side pockets is out and #6 at the headstring is way out. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Should my goal be to get #5 level first? That means #4 and #6 would both roll toward the short rails. Can someone please provide some feedback or direction? Any help is appreciated.

 

[GoBilliards]

Yes get 5 level first by lowering leg at D and raising leg at C then repost.There is a good chance you have cloth or something else wadded up in the center of the table under the slate..... but 1st things first.

 

[banditgrrr]

I took your advice and started at position 5. It now reads level but position 4 and 6 make the ball roll to the end rails. What would be the next step from here?

 

[Inferno]

Did you just move the table or has t settled into being off this much?

What you need to do is level #5
Then you will need to "card" the bed between the slate and the bed. Use playing cards (or some other stable shim material) and build up under the slate a little at a time on both ends.

Forget the grayed area. I didn't think that the slate was sagging. I reversed the bubbles. ~LOL~

OK, so you have sagging slate. The bed sags from the weight of the slate. You will need to card the middle of the table. OR!!! You could add a lift system to the middle of the table. You can achieve this many ways. Cables come to mind as a first, and least ugly, method.

This will only work if you have floating slate. If you have bolted down slate then you will need to disassemble the whole top to level the slate to the bed.

If you try to move it too fast it could lift the center which raises a risk of snapping the slate (no easy task to snap slate though).
It might take anywhere from a few days to a couple weeks to get the slate to settle down. Patience is a virtue.

As a caveat, if you have moved the table into place, the only real way to level it out will be to pull the rails, remove the felt, unbolt the slate and spend some serious time leveling it.

 

[banditgrrr]

The table is actually in my garage on a concrete floor so there probably isn't much settling going on. I don't believe the slate is screwed in to the frame. So if I understand correctly, take off the rails and start inserting playing cards between the frame and the slate? Do I only insert it in the center or would I need to do it in 3 or 4 places across the headrail and footrail for support?

I'll pick up some cards tomorrow and give it a shot. I would assume the cards will compress after a little time so I'll keep checking it. I definately appreciate the feedback.

 

[GoBilliards]

Did You assemble this table yourself?

Are the end rails setting a little higher than they should?

Is there a "lip" between the cloth covered rail and the veneer? (End Rails)

There are sometimes small wood shims to keep your floating slate from shifting. These are under the short rails. If these fall over and you set the slate on them it will cause the slate to sag in the middle. otherwise you will need to shim the center of the slate. Either way the slate has to come out. You can get the the table close to level before you put the rails back on. You may have to adjust the shims several times so leaving the rails off will make this less painful.

 

[realkingcobra]

Dynamo tables sag in the middle no matter what. You can't raise up the center of the slate to much to correct the sag, or you won't be able to bolt the rail blocks back in place because the bolt holes/rail bolts won't line up with the rails nearest the center pockets. Best option is to place pipe jacks under the center of the table below both side pockets as a way of lifting the body of the table to bring up the sag, or another 2 legs could be installed as they have adjustable feet.

 

[Club Billiards]

Dynamo tables sag in the middle no matter what. You can't raise up the center of the slate to much to correct the sag, or you won't be able to bolt the rail blocks back in place because the bolt holes/rail bolts won't line up with the rails nearest the center pockets. Best option is to place pipe jacks under the center of the table below both side pockets as a way of lifting the body of the table to bring up the sag, or another 2 legs could be installed as they have adjustable feet.

I like the idea of a 6 leg Dynamo. That might be the best/easiest fix. I have a set of 4 used but good bar box legs and brand new inserts in my shop if you want to tackle this. I'll sell them to you cheap.

 

[Crash]

Dynamo tables sag in the middle no matter what. You can't raise up the center of the slate to much to correct the sag, or you won't be able to bolt the rail blocks back in place because the bolt holes/rail bolts won't line up with the rails nearest the center pockets. Best option is to place pipe jacks under the center of the table below both side pockets as a way of lifting the body of the table to bring up the sag, or another 2 legs could be installed as they have adjustable feet.

I'm not a mechanic but I deal with 8-foot Valley and Dynamo. I've thought about a) shimming the slate at the cross beams using 3/8 rat tail rasp to adjust the rail bolt holes to keep the nose height or b) putting legs in the middle to get the sag out. Has anyone done it? Did it work? Pictures?