> I was sitting around visiting with family,when a regular customer called and said he was bringing me a shaft to install a one piece phenolic ferrule/tip combo,and that he had the ferrule with him. I got the shaft,and it was a Players with the standard ferrule. After failing to get the ferrule to come off with the heat gun (it was soft and kept changing shape,and I didn't want to take the risk of twisting it in 2 with pliers),I went ahead and turned the ferrule down to about .025 thick. I applied leather to the spinning tenon,to melt what was left off. I was very happy to see that this tenon,unlike the last one of these I did,was threaded,since the ferrule he brought was drilled to .250 and unthreaded,making it simple to tap 5/16-18 threads and install.
Here is where it went wrong. I was removing the last bit of plastic from the tenon with the leather,down close to the base of the tenon,and the tenon twisted right off in my hand,with no more than hand pressure,no tools other than an old McDermott burnisher. It twisted right above the unthreaded register at the base,my only guess here was the tenon was weakened by the threading process,or may have been undercut. I about s**t myself,thinking I just ruined the good rep I've been getting for my repairs,by something as unexpected as this.
I decided I wasn't going out like that,and cut off a 3" section off a hopelessly warped shaft,and made a new tenon. I had been playing around earlier in the week with the Atlas tenon threader,and had come to the conclusion it was simply too tight,so I ran a tap inside it. This tenon I made was turned to .315,and was just a little snug in the threader,so I sanded it to .307,and it threaded just right,leaving just a little room for glue. The ferrule was drilled to .250 instead of the correct .257,making it a nice fit on the new tenon after tapping with an H2 bottoming tap.
I then went about facing,centerdrilling and drilling out the shaft,using a 1/4 carbide drill bit,the only one I have. I turned the end of the tenon to .248,and test fitted,almost perfect. I thought about using a wood glue,but decided to use Devcon 5 minute instead. I let it set up for about an hour before messing with it any further. I also had the misfortune of having the on/off switch on my Enco go out,and had to get that working again. Once I was back up and running,I played with the tenon and ferrule until I got the tenon to run all the way to the end of the blind hole,in my mind this increases feel over having empty space or glue there. Something that surprised me about both of these type ferrules I've installed is the way they are made. Both of them were drilled to about .800 deep,and unthreaded,but both miked out over 1.500 long,leaving almost .750 of solid material at the end. Both of these ferrules came from the same place. I used a part-off tool and cut about 1/4 off then reshaped with a double-cut file,to about a 2 1/4 radius to match the cue ball. Once I got it installed,it came out perfect,but sent word to the customer about what happened. Tommy D.
Here is where it went wrong. I was removing the last bit of plastic from the tenon with the leather,down close to the base of the tenon,and the tenon twisted right off in my hand,with no more than hand pressure,no tools other than an old McDermott burnisher. It twisted right above the unthreaded register at the base,my only guess here was the tenon was weakened by the threading process,or may have been undercut. I about s**t myself,thinking I just ruined the good rep I've been getting for my repairs,by something as unexpected as this.
I decided I wasn't going out like that,and cut off a 3" section off a hopelessly warped shaft,and made a new tenon. I had been playing around earlier in the week with the Atlas tenon threader,and had come to the conclusion it was simply too tight,so I ran a tap inside it. This tenon I made was turned to .315,and was just a little snug in the threader,so I sanded it to .307,and it threaded just right,leaving just a little room for glue. The ferrule was drilled to .250 instead of the correct .257,making it a nice fit on the new tenon after tapping with an H2 bottoming tap.
I then went about facing,centerdrilling and drilling out the shaft,using a 1/4 carbide drill bit,the only one I have. I turned the end of the tenon to .248,and test fitted,almost perfect. I thought about using a wood glue,but decided to use Devcon 5 minute instead. I let it set up for about an hour before messing with it any further. I also had the misfortune of having the on/off switch on my Enco go out,and had to get that working again. Once I was back up and running,I played with the tenon and ferrule until I got the tenon to run all the way to the end of the blind hole,in my mind this increases feel over having empty space or glue there. Something that surprised me about both of these type ferrules I've installed is the way they are made. Both of them were drilled to about .800 deep,and unthreaded,but both miked out over 1.500 long,leaving almost .750 of solid material at the end. Both of these ferrules came from the same place. I used a part-off tool and cut about 1/4 off then reshaped with a double-cut file,to about a 2 1/4 radius to match the cue ball. Once I got it installed,it came out perfect,but sent word to the customer about what happened. Tommy D.
