superglue finish joint area of shaft?

P

pip9ball

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been trying to put a finish (superglue) on a shaft where I replaced the collar. Here are the issues I am seeing. Any help is appreciated.

1.) For prepping, I started with 220 then worked my way up to 1500. One thing I had difficult time with is the black phonelic dust getting into the grain of the wood. Is there anyway to avoid this?

2.) For applying the finish, I am using Loctite superglue applied wile the shaft is spinning and backed by a papertowel. I put 2 light coats on then sanded, repeated with 2 more coats then sanded again. I continued this until about 20 coats were on. I noticed that in the sanding stages, the phonelic collar didn't sand smoothly and gummed up with some white material (possibly wood dust)

Does this process just take some practice or am I doing something wrong? Are there any better methods to finish off this area?

Thanks!
 
Stop sanding at 600. Whatever finish you are working with, has got to have a rougher surface, to grip on to. Always sand & wipe from the shaft towards the collar. I apply the super glue to the shaft(on top) & spread it with a piece of cardboard, cut from a beer or soda box (on the bottom of the shaft). You have to give the glue time to set up. Wait a 1/2 hour. Then sand with 600. If it's gumming up on the sandpaper, it's not completely dry. Wipe it down with mineral spirits & give it one more coat. After sanding you can give it a coat of enamel, from a spray can. When it's dry, lightly wet sand with 1500 & lightly polish...JER
 
superglue

Maybe try putting on 8 coats or so between sandings. Every other coat mist the fresh glue with accelerator. The next coat will still have accellerator present for that coat. Then coat again and follow with a mist. It should help. Whenever I have had that milky ghosting the method above has worked for me.
Blackheart is right, no need to sand to any more than 600 grit. And make sure you follow the lathe sanding with light sanding with the grain by hand with a soft pad . You will have no scratches. Did I understand right Blackheart that you use only a couple coats of CA, then some kind of spray? What spray is that? Which brand? Does it buff easy?
When sanding the black phenolic you may want to use an air nozzle clamped in place to spray the phenolic, let air blow the dust away from the maple, before it can fill the wood pores. And always sand with your strip of sand paper going from the wood shaft towards your phenolic so you do not carry the black dust into your clean maple. Then clean the paper before the next pass.
 
olsonsview said:
Maybe try putting on 8 coats or so between sandings. Every other coat mist the fresh glue with accelerator. The next coat will still have accellerator present for that coat. Then coat again and follow with a mist. It should help. Whenever I have had that milky ghosting the method above has worked for me.
Blackheart is right, no need to sand to any more than 600 grit. And make sure you follow the lathe sanding with light sanding with the grain by hand with a soft pad . You will have no scratches. Did I understand right Blackheart that you use only a couple coats of CA, then some kind of spray? What spray is that? Which brand? Does it buff easy?
When sanding the black phenolic you may want to use an air nozzle clamped in place to spray the phenolic, let air blow the dust away from the maple, before it can fill the wood pores. And always sand with your strip of sand paper going from the wood shaft towards your phenolic so you do not carry the black dust into your clean maple. Then clean the paper before the next pass.
Click to expand...

Try Krylon clear after 2 coats of SUPER GLUE GEL...JER
 
Building thin coats will end up a lot flatter, and need much less wetsanding. Cut your shafts within a couple thousandths of finished size, and don't sand them much at all. Ideally, you should be able to hit it lightly with one piece of 400, then again with one piece of 600. The more you sand the worse the finished product will be. If you use superglue, you need the surface as flat as possible. the wood will come off a lot faster than the phenolic, so sanding will produce an uneven surface. Olsonview's advice is very solid.
 
I did finish a jump cue with It last week that turned out well, but don't I use Ca that much anymore when I build a cue, other then the tip, or to seal rings off quickly to prevent bleeding, but sometimes I use It to match a shaft to a cue. I aggree with most of what's been said already. do thin cotes, and don't get too far ahead of yourself by getting in too much of a rush. The thinner & smoother the cotes go on, the easier and quicker sanding will be, because It won't require as coarse of a grit of paper to level It back out, and that means less risk of sanding all the way through.

Also If that milking does take place, keep in mind that adding cotes on top of It will only seal the milky part in. The only way to get It out that I know of is sand past the cote where It first took place, and start over with new cotes.

Other then improper preperation between cotes, or an unsuited brand/type of CA, there still seems to be several things that can cause milking or white spots. I Have'nt had that happen in a while, but just the other day I was matching a shaft, I started with thin, got in a rush, then tried using a thicker ca to build up faster, sure enough, when I hit the second cote with accelerator, I could see the milky way in the finish starting to show It'self and slowly getting worse:o . It seemed Like after shooting the accelerator on, I stayed on the piece with My papertowel too long that cote, and the more I stayed on It the worse It got for some reason. I could'nt see any actual material from the paper in there, but seemed more like I over burmished It or something, and possibly that, combined, with the heat of the chemical reaction generated caused It, because It was inside the finish not outside.:confused: Anyway, just that one cote got Me, after- I had to sand that cote out, and start over, but in the end all was well, and It turned out really nice & clear.:) Good luck with It.

Greg
 
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