Table is finally done.

O

outrunu

Registered
36iHBtGl.jpg


And where it started:
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I had posted a couple of times over the past few months of my sportsman project. Played my first game on Christmas Eve.

Table is completely rebuilt. Swapped the Formica skirts for hard wood, completely refinished every piece of wood on it.

I re profiled the rails to accept the new Artemis k66 cushions. Shimmed them to 4 3/8 corners. Got the Simonis DVDs, and installed 860HR on it as well. I'll be installing two led panels this week for light, and it will be complete.

There are a couple of spots that aren't perfect, but they don't affect the play at all....overall, it was a fun and quite the learning experience.

The build photo album:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rS5Y5lG3a0KGJ0Ry2
 
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Table

I have owned three tables that had a cut into the outside of the rail like you had on your long-rail, I’d like to super slap whoever is responsible for such a thing..

Did you replace/upgrade the figure 8 rail plates..?
I’m sure that table will bring you much enjoyment of play.



Rob.M
 
ROB.M said:
I have owned three tables that had a cut into the outside of the rail like you had on your long-rail, I’d like to super slap whoever is responsible for such a thing..

Did you replace/upgrade the figure 8 rail plates..?
I’m sure that table will bring you much enjoyment of play.



Rob.M
Click to expand...

Mine weren't the figure 8, Just the single round five screw type. There was a decent amount of water damage to two rails, so a few of them were pulled, cleaned and rotated to new screw holes.

As far as the skill saw cut, I wasn't too happy with it. I'll add a picture tonight, but I filled it with a five minute epoxy / blue sand mixture and sanded it smooth. Turned out all right. There were a couple of spots on the rails that I did that to fill imperfections / general asshattery with a skil saw in a garage.
 
outrunu said:
Mine weren't the figure 8, Just the single round five screw type. There was a decent amount of water damage to two rails, so a few of them were pulled, cleaned and rotated to new screw holes.

As far as the skill saw cut, I wasn't too happy with it. I'll add a picture tonight, but I filled it with a five minute epoxy / blue sand mixture and sanded it smooth. Turned out all right. There were a couple of spots on the rails that I did that to fill imperfections / general asshattery with a skil saw in a garage.
Click to expand...

Kudos for you for turning the plates and giving those plates new screw holes! Replacing them is a waste of time in my opinion. Obviously if they NEED to be replaced using the stafast inserts that Diamond uses like these: https://shop.stafast.com/threaded-inserts/inserts-for-hard-wood/screw-in/sk-insert/sk381630hd thats a whole different can of worms!!!

I once saw a situation where a guy took out all of the floating nut plates in a set of GC3 rails. He replaced all of them with inserts by drilling out the holes that originally lead to the nutplates. Now unless all of the plates were stripped (even then I would have replaced the floating nut plates because they work great) I am not sure how that wasn't a total waste of time an resources... Some people make me wonder.

I have had only 1 cut in a rail like that and had to fill it, came out all good!

Nice project! Congrats!

Trent from Toledo
 
Table

trentfromtoledo said:
Kudos for you for turning the plates and giving those plates new screw holes! Replacing them is a waste of time in my opinion. Obviously if they NEED to be replaced using the stafast inserts that Diamond uses like these: https://shop.stafast.com/threaded-inserts/inserts-for-hard-wood/screw-in/sk-insert/sk381630hd thats a whole different can of worms!!!

I once saw a situation where a guy took out all of the floating nut plates in a set of GC3 rails. He replaced all of them with inserts by drilling out the holes that originally lead to the nutplates. Now unless all of the plates were stripped (even then I would have replaced the floating nut plates because they work great) I am not sure how that wasn't a total waste of time an resources... Some people make me wonder.

I have had only 1 cut in a rail like that and had to fill it, came out all good!

Nice project! Congrats!

Trent from Toledo
Click to expand...

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Ha’ that’s the only way to go when deleting the floating nut plates.
The inserts are not going into oak like on a diamond but the poplar holds the 30mm inserts well and better than the soft metal nut plates Brunswick used that only holds three threads of bolt and is notorious for gulling one or the other pieces/parts of hardware...

Have a happy new year.




Rob.M
 
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ROB.M said:
I have owned three tables that had a cut into the outside of the rail like you had on your long-rail, I’d like to super slap whoever is responsible for such a thing..

Did you replace/upgrade the figure 8 rail plates..?
I’m sure that table will bring you much enjoyment of play.



Rob.M
Click to expand...
This is the repair to the cut rail.
nRfssoUl.jpg
 
ROB.M said:
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Ha’ that’s the only way to go when deleting the floating nut plates.
The inserts are not going into oak like on a diamond but the poplar holds the 30mm inserts well and better than the soft metal nut plates Brunswick used that only holds three threads of bolt and is notorious for gulling one or the other pieces/parts of hardware...

Have a happy new year.




Rob.M
Click to expand...

From my point of view there is no reason to "delete" the floating nut plates, it is not adding anything to the table... Not to mention anyone that has an elementary school education can do it.

Not to say I have not seen some cross threaded/ bent floating nut plates either, but, that is usually caused by some idiot with an impact gun..... I take my time and use a ratchet.

I have had zero issues here with rail bolts, using the right size makes a world of difference if you are only getting 3 threads, add an impact gun to that situation and that could also explain stripped bolt or bent nut plate...

2" bolt is for the old style 3 hole, 5 hole and figure 8 plates. 2.5" is the right length for the bolt that loves that floating nut plate.

I see the need for the inserts when all the screws are stripped out of the old school figure 8 plates and at that point wood comes out, is replaced with new and then a new insert is used.

As for Johhny's input concerning Classic Billiards: Ken is way over priced... I buy tables for parts just to not get kicked in the ball$$$$$ every time I need a part.

The GC1 & 2 nut plates are far superior to the 3 & 4 and I assume they are the same on the 5.... So anyone parting out any old GC's, as I mentioned, has plenty of the "better" ones. In a worst case scenario I could have my buddy make the damn things......


HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Trent from Toledo
 
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Looks great! I bet it plays great as well. Thanks for sharing. I have a similar project that I hope to be starting soon so I'll probably asking plenty of questions. I'll post some pics of my project when I get a chance. I still haven't decided what kind of rubber to get. I was wondering about what you had to do to convert the old Brunswick cushions to Artemis? Did that require a run of the sub rails through the table saw to get a slightly different angle to get the nose height correct?
 
Lawnboy77 said:
Looks great! I bet it plays great as well. Thanks for sharing. I have a similar project that I hope to be starting soon so I'll probably asking plenty of questions. I'll post some pics of my project when I get a chance. I still haven't decided what kind of rubber to get. I was wondering about what you had to do to convert the old Brunswick cushions to Artemis? Did that require a run of the sub rails through the table saw to get a slightly different angle to get the nose height correct?
Click to expand...

That's exactly what it took....which was a bit nerve wracking to say the least. I built a mock up rail out of a 2x6 and plywood to get the correct rail height, and then ran it through until I got the angle that I was happy with (which I don't recall what that was off the top of my head.) I was able to get a couple of cushion samples and then used them to mock up the profile.

No matter what cushion or profile you go with on these old brunswicks, it's going to take modding the rail. All said and done, I think my cushion height is a tad low, but it plays well with no hop.
 
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Table

trentfromtoledo said:
From my point of view there is no reason to "delete" the floating nut plates, it is not adding anything to the table... Not to mention anyone that has an elementary school education can do it.

Not to say I have not seen some cross threaded/ bent floating nut plates either, but, that is usually caused by some idiot with an impact gun..... I take my time and use a ratchet.

I have had zero issues here with rail bolts, using the right size makes a world of difference if you are only getting 3 threads, add an impact gun to that situation and that could also explain stripped bolt or bent nut plate...

2" bolt is for the old style 3 hole, 5 hole and figure 8 plates. 2.5" is the right length for the bolt that loves that floating nut plate.

I see the need for the inserts when all the screws are stripped out of the old school figure 8 plates and at that point wood comes out, is replaced with new and then a new insert is used.

As for Johhny's input concerning Classic Billiards: Ken is way over priced... I buy tables for parts just to not get kicked in the ball$$$$$ every time I need a part.

The GC1 & 2 nut plates are far superior to the 3 & 4 and I assume they are the same on the 5.... So anyone parting out any old GC's, as I mentioned, has plenty of the "better" ones. In a worst case scenario I could have my buddy make the damn things......


HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Trent from Toledo[/QUOTE


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One day you might get it.. but it’s going to take a lot of experience playing on and working on the tables and paying attention and knowing playability..
Jay,mark,glen and several others have been a wealth of knowledge on the GC that most would never think of because those guys have played on,worked and repaired the tables for a looong time before they figured out the things they do to improve the table in playability and durability.
Enough trolling this guys great thread..



Rob.M
Click to expand...
 
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