Table Light Fixture

3kushn

3kushn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Where in the heck do you find a high quality light or lights that will evenly light a 5x10 table?

Google "billiard lights" and all you get are the Tiffany bar lights and the Cone lights.

Just great! I have the choice of no light or spots and shadows.

Is there an aiming system using shadows? And does it work better with 3 or 4 shadows?:angry:

The big box type like a Diamond has been nixed by the wife. Working with an 8' ceiling and soon to be less.
 
Hello!

I can get you these lights, which are 71" long.

I can also get similar single lights which hang by the cord from the ceiling (space them as needed) as in Pool Table Magic (if you have happen d to have seen that room)
 

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Since you are working with an 8' ceiling, soon to be less, get a bunch of cans and set them in the ceiling above the table.

The lights I showed you will be to close I think...
 
If its a drop cieling, use a couple of 4' Flourescents. Even lighting with no shadows, and fits up in the cieling to allow for more room.
 
I personally don't like to play under fluorescents. The light is really unpleasant to my eyes.

However, I have not tried it under these new-fangled "daylight" bulbs... Those might be the hot set-up!

I also prefer a darker room with the top of the table lit well- high-contrast you might say- as it gives your eyes a little break when the other player is shooting.

But, again, I think spots at 8' from the table top (probably six of them) would work well I think, and have a very slick appearance when the table is covered with a cover or a dinner table top as some are these days. If thwe rest of the room is dark, I think it would be quite nice (for me anyway).
 
Cue Guru said:
I personally don't like to play under fluorescents. The light is really unpleasant to my eyes.

However, I have not tried it under these new-fangled "daylight" bulbs... Those might be the hot set-up!

I also prefer a darker room with the top of the table lit well- high-contrast you might say- as it gives your eyes a little break when the other player is shooting.

But, again, I think spots at 8' from the table top (probably six of them) would work well I think, and have a very slick appearance when the table is covered with a cover or a dinner table top as some are these days. If thwe rest of the room is dark, I think it would be quite nice (for me anyway).
Click to expand...

The triple nutz is the 50"x102" Diamond light made by Diamond Billiard Products.

I can sell you one or you can order it direct at:

Triple Nutz

Ray Hansen
(time to override the Mrs) ;)
 
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That is a nice looking fixture, particularly if you have a diamond table under it!

The price is a bit steep however...
 
Cue Guru said:
That is a nice looking fixture, particularly if you have a diamond table under it!

The price is a bit steep however...
Click to expand...
I made my fixture over my GC1 out of 1/2" furniture grade plywood and used (2) eight foot tandem fixtures with T-8 daybright bulbs. It cost me a total of $200.00 including the stain, clear coat and hardware. As soon as I get a free minute, I will post a 'HOW TO' with photos and parts list in the main forum.
 
I really like the Diamond light but its too tall. I'm looking at the Gabriel light right now but don't have the dimensions yet.. It works similar to the Diamond but set up with 2 panels and the parobolic diffusers. Really nice but I'm thinking its going to be too wide. I have max 4' (or 2' from center) to do this. Total bummer.

I think I liked my basement with concrete walls and a bunch of shop lights over the table + nobody wanting to come down there but me.

Anyway thanks for all the help.
 
I did the same as Darth, with 2 four bulb, 4 foot fixtures end to end, (total of 8 bulbs) using the new high efficiency (32 watt) T8 skinny bulbs at 6500K color temperature (Daylight). I couldn't be happier.

You can see the results here.

My ceiling is 8'9" and the light is 6 inches below that, very close to being mounted directly to an 8' ceiling. The light is very bright and the color is great, and the price cant be beat.
 
Here are a couple of ideas...

1) Buy the Diamond light and have your wife cover the sides of the box with fabric that reiterates some of the design details of your remodel.

2) Buy a light that she likes and add supplemental lighting (you won't need much) to get rid of the shadows.
 
All these are good ideas. Here's the problem. I'm thinking too much.

What's 46 candle power vs 36 or 24? I have 3 light meters and samples of high end lights but no table to measure the light. So I set up a couple of saw horses and a piece of plywood. Each meter gives me a different reading varying as much as 15 candles. The 24 candle readings on a photometric chart are on the short rails and corners. Great, the toughest shots are into the dark. I go to a well lit pool hall and get anywhere from 20 to 75 candles depending on the table and position of the meter. The lights here are flared boxes with 4 8' T8's.

The Gabriel light is excellent. I shot under one at Shooters in Olathe, KS Just not sure if I can get it in the space. If not it looks like I'm facing installing some decent lights up there then start tweeking it with cans after everything is finished. :(

Light meters suck. One is very expensive the other 2 are average cost. I'm beginning to think there's no standard that these things are calibrated to and for instance the GE branded meter is set to make GE lamps looks better.:angry:
 
Use a photographer's light meter as they are calibrated the same. Note that older ones may need to be re-calibrated periodically.

Get a reading where you like the light- this is your standard.

Use the meter (the same one) to test potential lighting solutions.

That's the best you can do.
 
I am certainly not a lighting engineer, buy my guess would be that the hardest parts of the table to light would be just inside the cushions on the long axis.

FWIW, your plywood model may not adequately take into account the cushion's masking effect from a supplemental light source that is low and outside the playing area. Also, is it possible that your plywood mockup surface is more reflective than your pool hall tables with light absorbing cloth? In order to really dial in the levels, it seems like some dimmers may be in your future,.
 
2 banks horizontal -over table not vertical

When I read in billiards encyclopedia I am always interested with how the Lights are supposed to be. Hang the lights horizontally (not vertical with the table- 2 lights boxes (4 bulbs)- It says NO shadows and the light doesn't hit your head when racking. And use the blue or electric blue for more visibility. mark
 
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