Table, Light, & Wattage

DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ok, so, here's a pic of my nine foot Gold Crown IV with the Tournament Blue 860 and the light with four fixtures. The light sits 34 inches above the table and currently I use 60W bulbs.

My question is how high can I go with the wattage? Would 75W be ok? What about 100W?

DCP
 

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I just checked. Actually I have 100's on the ends and a 75 in the middle. All are 5000k. After much experimentation, this is the setup I like best.


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incandescent bulbs cost <$1.00 a piece. go buy & install them & get your answer.
max wattage is notated on all fixtures/pendants, required by UL Listing. read your label, or risk the fire.
CFC bulbs are approx 50% of incandescent & have variations of light "colors" (white vs yellow); similar to halogen without the heat. this, would solve your 60Wmax limit.
all of the above info can be found by going to Home Depot.
 
As PinkLady says, max wattage is usually indicated on the fixture.

I use 3 150W bulbs and am very happy with that. I think 4 100W would work well, but I am sure 4 60W bulbs would be too dim for me.

They now make bulbs that produce more light than traditional bulbs for the same wattage so you could get a little brighter with those.

The height and placement of your light looks good to me. I would just go brighter.
 
I don't know much about bulbs and lights, etc. But are you posters telling me I can get lights that will put out more lumens than a typical 60W bulb? That will still be safe to use on my table light?

DCP
 
5000k is a white light simulating daylight. The other popular alternative is "soft white" bulbs which are 2700k and give off a yellowish light.

My opinion is that the whiter light works better for pool. It also compliments Simonis tournament blue nicely.


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Yes. An LED that puts out the equivalent light of a 100 W incandescent bulb is about 18 W.

That's what Jad showed you.
 
I have an antique brass light fixture with 4 green glass shades. For years I had regular 60 watt bulbs. I had an electrician come to the house for other reasons but had him review the fixture and we installed 4 LED 60 watt bulbs that draw the equivelent of about 18 watts regular (I believe he said, but it was like 1/3 or so power). The light is really good now and more efficient.
 
I'd say go to Lowes and spring for two four foot shop lights with a protective metal grid and with the plugs already attached, hang them from chains, install 8 four foot t8's and your table will be as bright as a used car lot. Oh wait, several of us have already given you that proven solution.

Why ask for advice if you are loathe to follow it? The bright and even light will also eliminate all your shadows. Little wonder you complain about brightness. That setup looks like a cave.

If you require another opinion, call: 216 266 2121. It's NELA Park in E. Cleveland, Ohio. The world headquarters for the General Electric Lamp Division.

I worked there for several years, and my Dad for 37 years. Perhaps they are informed enough to meet your needs. Nobody here seems to be able to do that for you.

As proof, look at my avatar. The slight fall off of lumens at the head of the table, is an illusion and is merely tricking the eye due to the Inverse Square Law. That head area is identically bright as is the foot area. Additionally, 8 feet of lamps eliminates shadows since at all points, they are firing light directly down and perpendicular to the playing surface . To exaggerate, you could keep your 4 source setup and put in 150,000 candle power aircraft landing lamps, and they will still give you uneven illumination and shadows since they eminate from four separate and oblique fixtures throwing that light down at an angle. To see this, take a flashlight and shine it on the balls as you walk around your table.
 
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I don't know much about bulbs and lights, etc. But are you posters telling me I can get lights that will put out more lumens than a typical 60W bulb? That will still be safe to use on my table light?

DCP

yes. it's a new thing called halogen, CFLs, and LEDs - in that order, from the past 15 years' inventions. FREE info @ HD or Lowe's.

to be crystal, you've had some of the best advice for free over the past 3 yrs from AZBers, regarding your $200 indecision on out-of-pocket cost to experiment & answer your own question(s).

$200....

good luck to you & your discontinued SKU (albeit new supplier to mfg so the old swatch you have is no longer valid & QC isn't honored within 2 shades variance - hate to burst your bubble). you throw-up waaaayy too many red flags for "ïssues", and you haven't even ordered yet.

you will never be satisfied.
 
Stopped at Home Depot last night. The guy I talked to seemed to know his stuff. I bought some of those little curly bulbs that are 5000K, 100W but uses 23W, and had about three times as much lumens as the 60W bulbs I have now.

I'll install them later today.

DCP
 
That sounds about perfect to me. You'll find less shadows with that type of lamp (the conventional lamps tend to be more of a hot spot of light). Make sure with that type of fixture you don't have dimmer on circuit.

Nick

Stopped at Home Depot last night. The guy I talked to seemed to know his stuff. I bought some of those little curly bulbs that are 5000K, 100W but uses 23W, and had about three times as much lumens as the 60W bulbs I have now.

I'll install them later today.

DCP
 
Holy Geez, I should have known. After all my years of experience on this forum I should have known.

I tried some of those 5000K lights, 100W that only uses 23, a lot more lumens, etc. When I flipped the table light switch on I almost needed a flashlight to see it was so dark. It was about half as bright as my regular 60W bulbs I was using.

End of this debacle.

DCP
 
I did people. They were about half as bright after they warmed up.

Hey now, in all honesty I only let these bulbs warm up about 10 minutes. It still wasn't very bright. So I just went and put them in again and let them warm up about 20 minutes and they were a lot brighter.

Its a different shade of light that I have with my 60W bulbs but I don't really think its any brighter. Just different.

DCP
 
5000k is a white light simulating daylight. The other popular alternative is "soft white" bulbs which are 2700k and give off a yellowish light.
My opinion is that the whiter light works better for pool. It also compliments Simonis tournament blue nicely.



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My standard''cool'' flourescents do this , although they are taking more energy than led's I only use the fixture when I play, so I don't mind the 2 bulbs that I use. center mounted length wise over the table.....works great. As for wattage...uh, I'd have to look.
 
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