Table Mechanic

LCCS

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HOW DO YOU GET TO BE A MASTER TABLE MECHANIC? Is there some kind of test you have to take? Is there a college for this?
 
LCCS said:
HOW DO YOU GET TO BE A MASTER TABLE MECHANIC? Is there some kind of test you have to take? Is there a college for this?

No, but it does involve more than just installing cloth, changing cushions, etc...

It might just involve actually building a pool table from ground up as well....LOL

Glen
 
Master b8tr

I don't know what a "Master Mechanic" is, relative to billiards, other than a
term made up by braggarts that feel the need to tell you so. I understudied four different mechanics, including one that built tables from scratch. Am I a master? Far from it. I know that I have no call backs (warranty work)
 
mechanic

Thanks guys. I thought the same thing. I guess we should all go to England.LOL
 
When setting up a table and the slates have no chips, you should be able to level it and screw it down with nothing in the joints if the slates were cut straight. There should be no gaps at the joint. Even on tables that have been set up before this can be done but of course that would also assume you know how to prevent slate walk. Slate pop and or shifting can be prevented in better ways than using super glue bonding which just creates problems later when you take it apart. Of course if you need to use bondo or bees wax relative to what was done before on a used table then it is what it is.

I think that would be the first part of the test.

It seems that there is alot of knowledge here in the forum. There are many tricks as I call them when setting up a table. Having a problem and a solution is great but sometimes there is a better way. Minds are like parachutes, they don't work if you can't open them up.

I don't consider myself a master because I am always looking for better ways to do the job. I listen, read and watch when I can. It seems there are enough people who already know everything so I guess I am not permitted to add anything in this forum because I just joined.
 
seams

otlb, Buddy, if you can set up a Gold Crown or Diamond with out any filler. I would consider you a master. I want to see it, on You Tube with Simonis. If you can do that, i will bow to the pool gods. I read your post carefully and i seen the word should. So i understand now. I have been doing tables for a while and have never see this trick. Pictures speak a thousand words and videos talk a million. I am sure Glen will chime in on this one. This i have to see, i really have to see it LOL.
 
I don't have to prove what I do or how I do it. I am not sharing my tricks with the world. Some tricks magicians never reveal and only other magicians can figure them out. Will be happy to post pics of the table joints though on you tube so you can see what a perfect job looks like. I am not talking about just a GC or Diamond table either.
 
seams

Look Man. first, you do not use carpenter levels, then you say this forum is for learning and now you say your a magician. I do not know what will be next. If you would like help on things, ask for it and you will receive it. Most of it has already been covered in previous post. Do a search and you will see. I personally, have no time for people that say they can do something and do not prove it. It is like bidding to move a table for somebody and they have no clue of what it involves, but they sure got the dollar signs figured out.
SEE Ya, Ron
 
Lets make it clear. My first post here in this forum I state a clever way to see if a table is level etc and say that you should use machinist levels etc. Then you say things like don't let the secret out of the bag etc see if he knows anything about using carpenter levels?

Then I say I do use them and I have 8 ft ones which give better readings but you don't say they are better than 6 ft ones to me after I post that. I NEVER said I didn't use carpenter levels you did! go back and read the post. I also mention about how I use a square built up on wood to nose height, yet again no one says , hey thats a good idea.

So now I say something and its not ok with you because you don't know the answer. So far I have said 3 things and yet no positive responses.

I don't understand why people in here just wouldn't have said, hey thats a cool way to see if your table is level. thanks. I get attacked on my first post.

I did ask for help in another post about what is the most accurate level. Still waiting for the answer, its got to be at least 18 inches long and better than .0005. I think thats clear isn't it.

I didn't say I was a magician only being a pool table mechanic is like being one. I am sorry I offended you, why are you twisting my words.

I shared one of my tricks about seeing if a table is level. When someone shares something I don't know I might share more. I'm not giving out more information to have it ridiculed. I started off in here I thought with a nice idea but apparently no one thinks so. Exactly why should or would I continue with this dialogue.

I have seen guys in this business for over 40 years and they do it the same way they did the first year. I have many innovative methods and specialized tools beacuse of my efforts to improve.
 
Lets make it clear. My first post here in this forum I state a clever way to see if a table is level etc and say that you should use machinist levels etc. Then you say things like don't let the secret out of the bag etc see if he knows anything about using carpenter levels?

Then I say I do use them and I have 8 ft ones which give better readings but you don't say they are better than 6 ft ones to me after I post that. I NEVER said I didn't use carpenter levels you did! go back and read the post. I also mention about how I use a square built up on wood to nose height, yet again no one says , hey thats a good idea.

So now I say something and its not ok with you because you don't know the answer. So far I have said 3 things and yet no positive responses.

I don't understand why people in here just wouldn't have said, hey thats a cool way to see if your table is level. thanks. I get attacked on my first post.

I did ask for help in another post about what is the most accurate level. Still waiting for the answer, its got to be at least 18 inches long and better than .0005. I think thats clear isn't it.

I didn't say I was a magician only being a pool table mechanic is like being one. I am sorry I offended you, why are you twisting my words.

I shared one of my tricks about seeing if a table is level. When someone shares something I don't know I might share more. I'm not giving out more information to have it ridiculed. I started off in here I thought with a nice idea but apparently no one thinks so. Exactly why should or would I continue with this dialogue.

I have seen guys in this business for over 40 years and they do it the same way they did the first year. I have many innovative methods and specialized tools because of my efforts to improve. Why should I share them if they are NOT appreciated. Just to prove it, I don't think so.
 
OTLB said:
Lets make it clear. My first post here in this forum I state a clever way to see if a table is level etc and say that you should use machinist levels etc. Then you say things like don't let the secret out of the bag etc see if he knows anything about using carpenter levels?

Then I say I do use them and I have 8 ft ones which give better readings but you don't say they are better than 6 ft ones to me after I post that. I NEVER said I didn't use carpenter levels you did! go back and read the post. I also mention about how I use a square built up on wood to nose height, yet again no one says , hey thats a good idea.

So now I say something and its not ok with you because you don't know the answer. So far I have said 3 things and yet no positive responses.

I don't understand why people in here just wouldn't have said, hey thats a cool way to see if your table is level. thanks. I get attacked on my first post.

I did ask for help in another post about what is the most accurate level. Still waiting for the answer, its got to be at least 18 inches long and better than .0005. I think thats clear isn't it.

I didn't say I was a magician only being a pool table mechanic is like being one. I am sorry I offended you, why are you twisting my words.

I shared one of my tricks about seeing if a table is level. When someone shares something I don't know I might share more. I'm not giving out more information to have it ridiculed. I started off in here I thought with a nice idea but apparently no one thinks so. Exactly why should or would I continue with this dialogue.

I have seen guys in this business for over 40 years and they do it the same way they did the first year. I have many innovative methods and specialized tools beacuse of my efforts to improve.

I thought the square with blocks was a great idea. I think the whole thing with the carpenters level was misunderstood from the beginning. Please continue to share and enjoy the forum.
 
A positive reply

I'm happy to read whatever you have to share. I've been in this business for several years and I have I still have a lot to leard and I've found there are many ways to get the job done... right. I look forward to any information you are willing to share. There is always room for improvement. Like Yogi Berra said "It's amazing what you can see just by watching!". :)
 
Ok the first step to making sure slates don't move is NOT by putting tooth picks in the holes that were there from a previous installation. They call them tooth picks because they are used on your teeth if your lucky enough to have them. Now please no one take offense to that. The best way I have found is to tap the holes and use hardwood dowels and glue. Now the frame is better than before. Since I have to be clear, you should have more than one size dowel with you to remedy the problem. Its easy to carry them and I know that everyone has a great tool box that they use to shuffle their tools around. Now that I mention tool boxes etc. I think its fair to say that if your a Master Mechanic you wear an apron so you don't have to waste time going back and forth to whatever style of tool box you have. OK there are two more good tips for everyone.
 
slates

I am still waiting on you to show me how to install slates with no filler, with Simonis on the slates with no ball hop. When you do that i will learn something and give you all the credit in the world. Untill then, please keep posting on and pics would be nice. A video would be awesome on the slates.
Ron
 
LCCS said:
HOW DO YOU GET TO BE A MASTER TABLE MECHANIC? Is there some kind of test you have to take? Is there a college for this?


My idea of what a master mecanic is would be someone that alot of experiece, knows anything and is someone that a good mecanic would refer to when stumped.
 
OTLB said:
Ok the first step to making sure slates don't move is NOT by putting tooth picks in the holes that were there from a previous installation. They call them tooth picks because they are used on your teeth if your lucky enough to have them. Now please no one take offense to that. The best way I have found is to tap the holes and use hardwood dowels and glue. Now the frame is better than before. Since I have to be clear, you should have more than one size dowel with you to remedy the problem. Its easy to carry them and I know that everyone has a great tool box that they use to shuffle their tools around. Now that I mention tool boxes etc. I think its fair to say that if your a Master Mechanic you wear an apron so you don't have to waste time going back and forth to whatever style of tool box you have. OK there are two more good tips for everyone.
You might try strapping the slates together from corner to corner with 2 heavy ratchet straps, as this method holds the slates together like a one piece slate so you can move it around on the frame of the table to center it up, and holds it from moving when inserting the slate screws;) Now as far as being able to just screw down the slates at the seams and they're perfect....bullshit! There is such a thing as frame imperfections that will prevent that from ever happening, even on a Gabriels steel framed table;) I've been in this business for over 25 years, and have only encountered 2 tables in that time frame that were perfect to the point that I didn't need to use any shims to level the slate on the frame, and that's IT! As far as your idea of a steel marble and a 12" square flat surface to level a table, bullshit again. What can you read level wise with your steel marble rolling off...if your flat surface is on a high ridge grind on the slate, to the point that it would rock a machinest level back and forth? Why would anyone look for a better??????? way of leveling slates, than using machinest levels that show the level of the slate to perfection? I'm not interested in wasting my time with backyard "maybe's" when I already have a system that works great, besides...I use multipule levels to read the changes in the level of the slates as I adjust the level. Are you trying to say that you can run around the table fast enough to keep 8 steel marbles on their flat surfaces from falling off so you can see and adjust the level of the slate at the same time....THAT would be a MAGIC trick for sure, and I'd PAY to watch that one:D

Glen
 
ten levels

You do not need ten levels, either. One carpenter level and two machinist levels with a piece of chalk works fine. A rabbit in a hat maybe better. To say using a apron is a trick, is bullshit to. Maybe you need that to carry all those levels.LOL
Ron
 
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