Table set up

N

NoShow33

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I purchased a GC III a few months ago and am now in the process of finishing off my garage for my pool room.

I have a couple of questions and hopefully someone can help or lead me in the right direction:

1) What is the minimum clearance needed around the table for no problems? 5 feet?

2) At what height should the bottom of the light fixture be above the table slate? Is 36" above the slate bed correct?

3) What type of light works the best? I have a 4 bulb incandescent type fixture. Is a fluorescent type fixture better? If so what size of box needs to be built and how many 8' tubes required? The light I have came with the table when I purchased it.

4) What are the best billiard balls? Aramith or Brunswick?

5) Do you recommend using a Sardo tight rack?

The garage will be fully insulated, drywalled, carpet on floor and A/C.

Thanks in advance for any help with the above questions.

Any additional help / guidance is appreciated too.
 
Aramith are better. Don't get the sardo.
9 Foot Table (regulation - playing area 50" x 100") (o/all size(68" x 113")
14 feet x 18 feet required
 
TannerPruess said:
Aramith are better. Don't get the sardo.
9 Foot Table (regulation - playing area 50" x 100") (o/all size(68" x 113")
14 feet x 18 feet required
Click to expand...

That's entirely too small for "no problems." To have, say, a 6" stroke if the cueball ends up on the cushioin, a 14' 10" x 19' room would be the minimum size to have "no problems."

Another easy way to get the dimensions is to add 5' to the outside dimensions of the table. That would still get you roughly 14' 10" x 19' for a GCIII. Measuring helps here.

Never, ever, ever simply add 10' to a 4.5' x 9' dimension. It gets people in trouble on the width. Simple math shows why.

Fred
 
1) You need the length of a cue (Max. 60" usually) plus room to stroke it (Min. 6") on all sides, so that's an extra 132" on each side, which is 232" x 182" for a 9' table with a 100" x 50" playfield.

2) My understanding is the perfect light height is where there are 0 shadows under the rails. Ideally you would mount your light on adjustable chains and move it until it is in the perfect position for you table.

3) The best pool table lights use multiple flourescent bulbs and are almost as long as the table (8' for a 9' table) Multi-bulb incandescent setups are more decorative and "traditional" looking but much less functional in terms of casting direct, birght, even light and in terms of the lifespan of the bulbs. Most people think the Diamond table light is one of the best made at present.

4) Assuming you are talking about the Brunswick Centennial balls, these are made by Aramith and in terms of materials and quality are 99% identical to the Super Pro set which are usually a bit chaper. You pay a bit more for the Centennials becuase of the fancier design. Go with either and you'll be fine, your choice if you like the design or price better.

5) Sardo is an interesting choice for a home setup, as you will not have the problems of it getting beaten up like in a Pool hall and can have the table conditioned from scratch to use it. If you are not on a tight budget I say go for it, you can always go back to a normal rack if you find you don't like it and sell it on Ebay!
 
I agree with the posters that have suggested closer to 15 X 19 for your space around the table. Less than this and you wont be comfortable. And this is your play area, you dont want to have to set chairs and tables within this space.

I also would recommend going with 8' flourescent if possible. The Diamond setup is nice. The only trouble I have ever seen with it is if you have to try and attempt a masse shot sometimes the light can get in the way because it covers so much of the table.

Shadows on the table under the rails is often caused by lighting other than the one that is over the table. In fact the shadows in alot of poolrooms come from the light on the next table. Next time your at a poolroom that has shadows under the rails look at a table at the end of the row. You may be surprised to see it has a shadow on the side next to the other table, but no shadow on the other side.
 
If you buy Centennials be sure to get the commerical quality. Billliard Warehouse has good prices on them.

For lighting if you go with flourescent make sure you get the kind that will start in cold weather. Don't buy the cheapest you can find becasue they are not all the same. They may cost more but they will alway start.

If the light is too low you will bang your head and stick against them.
 
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