Table Size Based on This Room

7stud said:
Even without the pole, the room wouldn't be long enough to fit a 9' table. See this thread:

https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=451821
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As I do more research I agree, 9' is not in my future. I'm struggling with many questions right now. My goal is to get a similar style table my grand father use to have when I was a child but I haven't got a clue what size or style it was. I just remember we played snooker on it but I don't believe it was a snooker table.

I do recall loving to play with the cues that were much thinner (I dislike the fatter cues) so I feel we were playing with english style cues. That being said, I live in Canada and I don't seem to be able to find a store that sells english style tables - they all seem american (but they don't label which type they sell).

So I'm thinking I need a 8', american style table with smaller balls and skinny tipped cues?

Would 8' work?
 
No. Let's try 7'. Apparently, the size of a 7' table can vary:

https://billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/sizes/

Assuming a 7' table with the playing surface dimensions: 76" x 38", the formula for minimum room size (at the thread I linked) gives:


Code: 
L = 76 + 116 + 12  = 204 = 17' 0"
W = 38 + 116 + 12  = 166 = 13' 10"

That will give you a 6" backstroke with a 58" cue. Unfortunately, even without the pole, your room is not long enough for a 7' table. Your room length will only allow for a 3" backstroke with a 58" cue. If you used a 56" cue, you would have enough room for a 5" backstroke, but when you also take the pole into consideration the whole thing seems unworkable.
 
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7stud said:
Apparently, the size of a 7' table can vary:

https://billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/sizes/

Assuming a 7' table with these dimensions: 76" x 38"

The formula for table size (at the thread I linked) gives:


Code: 
L = 76 + 116 + 12  = L  = 204 = 17' 0"
W = 38 + 116 + 12  = W  = 166 = 13' 10"

That will give you a 6" backstroke with a 58" cue.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, based on those numbers a 7' makes sense. But if I went with a 52" cue I think I can squeeze a 8'

Code: 
L = 88 + 104 + 12  = L  = 204 = 17' 0"
W = 44 + 104 + 12  = W  = 160 = 13' 4"

However the link you posted mentioned something interesting: "Many people have found they are unhappy having to resort to shorter cues, and should have either gotten a smaller table, or no table at all." So many choices..
 
I think no matter what size table you get, the table is going to be touching the pole.
 
Vidarious said:
I'm looking to purchase a table (hopefully 9') for my home basement. Here is a link to my basement dimensions. Can you please suggest a table size/orientation and cue size? Main game I want to play is snooker.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t1oagfJzRiKmZzQ2vkxMTQ7Q4boL96ve/view?usp=sharing
Click to expand...

With that pole, you don't have room for any size of table. Here's how your experience will be:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOQaZJiMm2g

If you can get rid of the pole, for example with a steel beam across the span, you will have effectively 16'5" x 13'10". I think that's a little small.

If you settle on a clearance , such as 64 inches, just shade in everything within that distance of a wall or post. The unshaded remainder is where the playing surface of the table can be placed.
 
My original intention was to have the pole be an obstruction and have a really short cue for shots impacted. I will do a mock up of a 7’ table and see how it feels.
 
I'm expecting an 8 foot American table next month, and am also interested in being able to play snooker, in addition to pool, and also have an obstruction. I'll be having snooker markings on it. If one is a purist, then nothing but a " regulation " size table will do. However, if you're basically aiming for just a feel, love the rules of play, etc., remember . . .the 58 inch cue was made to fit a 12 ft table. Therefore, there's nothing wrong with going for 52 inch cues, and a trouble shooter cue, near the obstruction, and on a smaller table. After all, English pub snooker tables are often 7 ft and 6 ft tables. Last thing, . . if you do get an American style table, the pockets will be larger and have straight ' facings ' , whereas, snooker pockets have curved facings. So, with an American table, it's best to use 2 1/4 " snooker balls ( Aramith makes them ), as the smaller regulation snooker balls won't play like they should. Olhausen makes snooker style tables as an option, and being in Canada, so does Canada Billiard, . . you can check if they make a smaller 8 ft. or 7 ft option.( I'm also in Canada ) :-)
 
Here's a chart showing what size room you need with various size pool tables in order to have 6" of stroking room on all sides. I don't have common snooker table sizes, but will add them if somebody will post the playing area size(s).

pj
chgo

Room Size.JPG
 
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Vidarious said:
My original intention was to have the pole be an obstruction and have a really short cue for shots impacted. I will do a mock up of a 7’ table and see how it feels.
Click to expand...

Don't do it, you'll hate it. Even without the pole the room is too tight for a 7'. The game is just no fun with any obstructions whatsoever.
 
Vidarious said:
My original intention was to have the pole be an obstruction and have a really short cue for shots impacted. I will do a mock up of a 7’ table and see how it feels.
Click to expand...

Here is your room with a 60-inch set of buffer zones around the walls. That will allow a 2-inch backstroke with a 58-inch cue. Those are 6-foot and 5-foot rulers.

The playing surface has to fit in the clear area. I have ignored the post for those, but the empty circle marks the buffer zone for the post. The post leaves more or less no playing area.

I think the only way for this room to work is to push the table into a corner and use it only for practice.
 

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Thank you all for the feedback.

I personally don't recall a time every playing pool in someones home or even at a bar where I didn't have some sort of obstruction when playing from certain angles. I guess I come at this problem differently from most. For example, giving up on a table completely simply because a pole is there is a bit too purest for me. I also never would have learned to play pool if that were the case.

I simply have to work with what I have. I've wanted a pool table since I was a child and my current home is one I'll be in for a long time. So I'm willing to not have the most perfect of play experiences.

What i'm current debating is:

- 8 foot table with 48" cue bank shots and 52" cue other shots
- 7 foot table with 52" cue bank shots and 58" cue other shots

I love snooker and have been reading that a 7' for snooker really isn't a thing. Even with a english style table and smaller balls. So I'm leaning towards 8 foot for snooker. Also, a 8' English style table is smaller than 8' American style.

American 8': 88" x 44"
English 8': 84" x 42"
 
I live in the UK where we play on the 7ft X 4ft tables but with the much tighter pockets than USA. In most UK pool tables the pocket size is approximately 1.6X the diameter of object balls. The balls we use are 2 inches so the pocket size is usually around 3.2 inches, any longer pots or shots up the rail have to be hit with extreme accuracy for the ball to go in In effect this compensates for the smaller size of table compared to say 7 9ft USA Diamond pool table.

Due to lockdown i decided to purchase a folding snooker/pool table for house, due to room size limitations and space needed had to settle on 6ft by 3ft table. However due to the very small cushions it actually only plays about 4.5/5 inches shorter in length and breadth than regular 7ft table. He other plus side is the pockets are incredibly narrow being just under 2.5 inches across at widest point, even when using 1.875 inch balls this makes the pocket size only 1.3 X size of balls, making them play incredibly tight.

This has made it good for practicing on as you need to be so accurate when potting even though the table is small. I will try and post some pics later.
 
It looks like the other members have you covered for the table size.

I’d like to add you can buy a set of snooker balls at 2.25” diameter to use on an American style pool table. So you can still play that game if you like.

The cue stick diameter, you can also get as thin as you want. When you go to a commercial pool hall and use the “house sticks”, they are usually much fatter than if you were to spend $100 or so to get a pool cue with a “pro taper”. Most players really like the pro taper.

And if that is still too fat for your liking, you can pretty much get a shaft to any diameter you want. It might cost slightly more, but not crazy more.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Is there such a thing as pocket reducers like below but rounded like snooker pockets?

pj
chgo

View attachment 554780
Click to expand...

I doubt it, never seen one in all the years online or in person. I don't think I've ever seen this regular set in person. Maybe once 20 years ago, I forget.

The OP seems like he just wants a table and stick and balls to bang around and have fun. Cut of corner pockets probably won't matter. IMO:)
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Here's a chart showing what size room you need with various size pool tables in order to have 6" of stroking room on all sides. I don't have common snooker table sizes, but will add them if somebody will post the playing area size(s).

pj
chgo

View attachment 554677
Click to expand...
I noticed that your minimum room dimension for a 76" x 38" table is 1" bigger all around than what I calculated. What formula are you using?
 
7stud said:
I noticed that your minimum room dimension for a 76" x 38" table is 1" bigger all around than what I calculated. What formula are you using?
Click to expand...
You're right - thanks for catching it. I had transcribed the results manually and made some typos, I guess. It happened in several rows - I've replaced them with the actual formulas so they're all correct now.

Thanks again,

pj
chgo
 
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