taig lathe

Not sure that I understand the question, so please excuse me if I'm misunderstanding it.. I don't think that chuck will fit on a deluxe headstock due to the larger spindle bore. That looks like a smaller bore headstock to me. I'm not sure if anyone makes one that will fit on the deluxe or not. Maybe someone else has more info on that.

What I do know is That It is an independent chuck as opposed to self centering. An independent chuck can have It's advantages depending on what You want to do with it, but most cue lathes use a self centering chuck. when tuned in properly They are quicker and easier for the average person to use as they automatically center the workpiece. They use a scroll, and all jaws close in conjunction with each other at the same time. On a independent chuck they are manually adjusted one jaw at a time. That could come in useful when you need to mill a piece while It's off centered, or could possibly give more adjust-ability during the centering of a piece, without the need for shims, as with a self centering jaw you are pretty much stuck where It centers without any independent/manual adjustments other then the shims.

As an every day chuck I like the self centering, but I have run into situations when the independent adjustments would be very useful to me.
 
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Cue Crazy said:
Not sure that I understand the question, so please excuse me if I'm misunderstanding it.. I don't think that chuck will fit on a deluxe headstock due to the larger spindle bore. That looks like a smaller bore headstock to me. I'm not sure if anyone makes one that will fit on the deluxe or not. Maybe someone else has more info on that.

What I do know is That It is an independent chuck as opposed to self centering. An independent chuck can have It's advantages depending on what You want to do with it, but most cue lathes use a self centering chuck. when tuned in properly They are quicker and easier for the average person to use as they automatically center the workpiece. They use a scroll, and all jaws close in conjunction with each other at the same time. On a independent chuck they are manually adjusted one jaw at a time. That could come in useful when you need to mill a piece while It's off centered, or could possibly give more adjust-ability during the centering of a piece, without the need for shims, as with a self centering jaw you are pretty much stuck where It centers without any independent/manual adjustments other then the shims.

As an every day chuck I like the self centering, but I have run into situations when the independent adjustments would be very useful to me.
Click to expand...

You said something about tuning a chuck in properly for a 0 TIR. Is this as easy as just running a boring bar in and cleaning up the chucks? Currently I have about .004" TIR. Sorry for hijacking.
 
opiesbro said:
You said something about tuning a chuck in properly for a 0 TIR. Is this as easy as just running a boring bar in and cleaning up the chucks? Currently I have about .004" TIR. Sorry for hijacking.
Click to expand...

Let's hijack it a little more......with another meaningless apology ......

Your TIR is a little large even for a scroll chuck. Yes you can lightly bore the jaws.

I numbered my holes in the deluxe chuck where the bar is inserted to tighten it....1,2,3....

My dead center only runs true when I use hole #3 to tighten it. The other 2 make the dead center wobble. Go figure.....works every time.. TIR is about 1 thou..

Kim
 
whammo57 said:
Let's hijack it a little more......with another meaningless apology ......

Your TIR is a little large even for a scroll chuck. Yes you can lightly bore the jaws.

I numbered my holes in the deluxe chuck where the bar is inserted to tighten it....1,2,3....

My dead center only runs true when I use hole #3 to tighten it. The other 2 make the dead center wobble. Go figure.....works every time.. TIR is about 1 thou..

Kim
Click to expand...

That is really weird on how the different holes tighten the chucks to a different TIR. You would think that you are still turning the whole spindle and they are all connected so what would the difference be unless the dead center is some how moving the way the chucks are supporting it. Then the chucks clamp up on it differently.
 
opiesbro said:
That is really weird on how the different holes tighten the chucks to a different TIR. You would think that you are still turning the whole spindle and they are all connected so what would the difference be unless the dead center is some how moving the way the chucks are supporting it. Then the chucks clamp up on it differently.
Click to expand...

On all of the better scroll chucks that use a chuck key there will be a 0 punch mark next to one of the three chuck key inserts. This is the one which will tighten the chuck most accurately.

Dick
 
whammo57 said:
Let's hijack it a little more......with another meaningless apology ......

Your TIR is a little large even for a scroll chuck. Yes you can lightly bore the jaws.

I numbered my holes in the deluxe chuck where the bar is inserted to tighten it....1,2,3....

My dead center only runs true when I use hole #3 to tighten it. The other 2 make the dead center wobble. Go figure.....works every time.. TIR is about 1 thou..

Kim
Click to expand...

Am I better off to bore the chucks with them all the way open or all the way closed. I have one of the small boring bars from Chris. I'm just thinking that if I do it with them all the way closed the radius would be too small. I'm only asking because obviously I have never recut the jaws before and on our midsize I got it to about .0005" by the slop in the bolts and moving them manually. I tried that on the deluxe and it started to agrivate me so I think boring is easier.
 
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opiesbro said:
Am I better off to bore the chucks with them all the way open or all the way closed. I have one of the small boring bars from Chris. I'm just thinking that if I do it with them all the way closed the radius would be too small. I'm only asking because obviously I have never recut the jaws before and on our midsize I got it to about .0005" by the slop in the bolts and moving them manually. I tried that on the deluxe and it started to agrivate me so I think boring is easier.
Click to expand...

Allen,

I believe you are better off boring at the diameter you most commonly use. You will see a small ridge on the backside of the jaws. You can wedge a washer or coin in there and tighten down the jaws to hold them steady. Then you bore the jaws ever so little, just enough to reface all 3 (or 4 jaws, depending on the chuck). When you are done, the diameter that you bored at should always be pretty true in the future. But anything smaller or larger will be off.

Now I wish I knew if that was a linear error, meaning the farther away you get from the calibrated diameter the larger the error, or whether it is just off by a random amount at all other openings/diameters. I tend to think linearly, so I use a washer that is about 5/8" diameter, so that my calibrated diameter is slightly larger than a ferrule and smaller than a joint.

Now, I should mention that Chris Hightower recommends opening the jaws up as wide as they will go and then boring.

Hope This Helps,

Gary
 
opiesbro said:
You said something about tuning a chuck in properly for a 0 TIR. Is this as easy as just running a boring bar in and cleaning up the chucks? Currently I have about .004" TIR. Sorry for hijacking.
Click to expand...



I thought about It before, but I've never bored the chuck on My deluxe. I can usually get mine to atleast run anywhere from under .001 to .002 if i fool with it for a few, or by marking the chuck jaw and any tooling shanks, similar to what has been mentioned. That can help me tune them in faster. From there I can shim if I want better. I can't see any noticeable runout by eye when I achieve those numbers. At .004 I could probably see it with the eye though. What is acceptable is different depending on who You talk to, but I would at least try to achieve under .003 minimum. That number may seem a little high to some, but like with a pin instal the cue should roll true enough that You won't see any roll in the cue when screwed together if you face at the same time. At the numbers I achieve I see nothing when rolled out on a table, not even a slight lope. I've found that how well I am able to dial It in also depends on what I am chucking onto.
 
I didnt read all the posts but a taig chuck is 3/4x16 thread

Im sure a deluxe has a bigger spindle bore than that
 
Chuck

cueman said:
It will not fit.
Click to expand...

Chris,
do you sell a four jaw independent chuck that fits?? if not where can i get one. I bored my jaws and still not accurate enough. I did as you recommended and had them wide open when boring. still over two thou out.
 
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