Taper machine idea?

I got the free DVD.
The one they were using, you had to hand crank it, and it was geared for "X" amount of travel per revolution.
I would hook up a motor :D .

But, the way they had it set up to taper, was by dropping down the tail stock. I didn't like that...
You are supposed to be able to use "templates" and the like, but i don't know if you could use a taper bar or not...

I emailed them with some questions, and never got a reply... so go figure.
 
BiG_JoN said:
I got the free DVD.
The one they were using, you had to hand crank it, and it was geared for "X" amount of travel per revolution.
I would hook up a motor :D .

But, the way they had it set up to taper, was by dropping down the tail stock. I didn't like that...
You are supposed to be able to use "templates" and the like, but i don't know if you could use a taper bar or not...

I emailed them with some questions, and never got a reply... so go figure.
Click to expand...


Yeah, I would definitely want to know more before I jumped at something like that. Whether you could dial it in for small passes or if you have to use a template or what. A drive motor wouldn't be a problem.....it does have indexing and it might be suitable for cutting v-groove points but how can you tell if you can't lay hands on the thing. If you learn anymore, I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know.

Bob
 
BiG_JoN said:
I got the free DVD.
The one they were using, you had to hand crank it, and it was geared for "X" amount of travel per revolution.
I would hook up a motor :D .

But, the way they had it set up to taper, was by dropping down the tail stock. I didn't like that...
You are supposed to be able to use "templates" and the like, but i don't know if you could use a taper bar or not...

I emailed them with some questions, and never got a reply... so go figure.
Click to expand...

It's for pretty rough work and more suited to making stair rails and such, no real percision. You would end up rebuilding the whole thing to even make it do anything of value regarding cues. Maybe roughing out wood in the very early stages but way too much money for that.
 
Guess I am no different then you guys, I have seen these things too, and been scared off myself. Just seems like a roughing type machine. The craftsman I have seen many times with broken pieces, so assume they are kind of flimsy. I have seen another version on ebay that mounts over a wood lathe, looks a little more heavy duty, but have no idea if It would be anywhere near suitable. believe the brand name was Rand or something simular to that.
I have decided to build my first dedicated taper machine using linear rods for the axis, with a power fed carraige that carries a trim router. I have some 1inch thick rods and huge bearings to build and, attatch the carraige to. also have some huge thick brackets should I decide to hang them on side rather than over the top. the taper stylus will depend on how I decide to mount them.
in the picture is a piece sloted extrusion, I will probably use these for the frame, as I have more of them. the stuff is like aluminum 2x4's, they are very heavy therefore when altogether should dampen some vibration I am hoping. By the time I'm done the whole unit will probably weigh quite a bit, so should be pretty stable.


Greg
 

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weak

Cue Crazy said:
Guess I am no different then you guys, I have seen these things too, and been scared off myself. Just seems like a roughing type machine. The craftsman I have seen many times with broken pieces, so assume they are kind of flimsy. I have seen another version on ebay that mounts over a wood lathe, looks a little more heavy duty, but have no idea if It would be anywhere near suitable. believe the brand name was Rand or something simular to that.
I have decided to build my first dedicated taper machine using linear rods for the axis, with a power fed carraige that carries a trim router. I have some 1inch thick rods and huge bearings to build and, attatch the carraige to. also have some huge thick brackets should I decide to hang them on side rather than over the top. the taper stylus will depend on how I decide to mount them.
in the picture is a piece sloted extrusion, I will probably use these for the frame, as I have more of them. the stuff is like aluminum 2x4's, they are very heavy therefore when altogether should dampen some vibration I am hoping. By the time I'm done the whole unit will probably weigh quite a bit, so should be pretty stable.


Greg
Click to expand...
Greg, looks like your live center is short coupled. Meaning that you have either one or two bearings holding a tube with your shaft in it. I would do this differantly. First, I would not have a spring loaded, center slipping in and out of a tube. This method will not be very close. When turning shafts, butts, and or handles, you need to have the centers, including the drive to be smooth and not wobble on it's end. Your has much wiggle. I would have the center sliding in and out of at least two bearings.With one or two bearings that close, [ can't see the back side], your not going to have a stable "LIVE CENTER". The bearings need to be farther apart, by maybe two or three inches, and this will elimate any wobble at the end of the 60degree point, holding your turnings. You can make a longer tube, and have a bearing in each end of it with the tube welded to a flange, and it would be bolted to your angle. With the longer centers between the bearings, you will be straight, and have little or no wobble at it's pointed end. You could also add an extra lenght to the tube and spring load it internally, [from the outer end of the floating shaft], with an E-RING to hold the spring in place, or spring load it on the outside as your showing in your picture.

If you will call me, I'll walk you through what I think would help yo a lot, so you can get to building cues.
I received your e-mail. Thanks. However, I can help you better if you would just call.So, break down and use your phone and give me a call, if you want some free help. Phone calls help, both you and your customers.Without phones, sir, you will have little business over time.

blud
 
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blud said:
Greg, looks like your live center is short coupled. Meaning that you have either one or two bearings holding a tube with your shaft in it. With one or two bearings that close, [ can't see the back side], your not going to have a stable "LIVE CENTER". The bearings need to be farther apart, by maybe two or three inches, and this will elimate any wobble at the end of the 60degree point, holding your turnings.If you will call me, I'll walk you through what needs to be done, so you can get to building cues.
I received your e-mail. Thanks. But I can help you better if you just call.So, break down and use your phone and
give me a call, if you can. Phone calls help, both you and your customers.Without phones, sir, you will have little business over time.

blud
Click to expand...



Hello blud,

Good observation, The tailstock in the picture is actually not for the taper machine, It's for a finish dryer, so does not need to be as accurate for that. It was just a picture I had with the 80/20 extrusion in It that I was mentioning in the post. I do have a way of tapering now, just want a dedicated machine for It.

I do have plenty of phones, My point was that I do not pay much attention to My home phone at this time due to solicitation, and the fact i am usually away from it. i just check the messages every once and a while, and call who ever i need to, therefore your call may well be missed. All our bussiness is run through a cell for the most part, as we pickup and deliver. It's anyones guess if that phone will be in my hands, or My dads at any given time, so that was the reason I suggested emailing would be the easiest way to reach me, just trying to save you the hassle. The fax I mentioned is actually My home #. You are correct about the contact part, i do aggree, but As I mentioned to you We are small, and I have actually had to suppress bussiness to keep It that way until ready to make a move. it was'nt supposed to turn into a bussiness, this was just something we always did on the side that seems to be getting too big to keep that way. The cuebuilding side is still a hobby, but probably won't stay that way either from the looks of things. Needless to say Blud, I am way behind, and still need to figure out where I am going to setup shop before I can even think about loading up on anymore equipment. If I do It here, I have some major repairs to do, and going to be time consuming, as well as costly, If we sell ,we can Buy a large piece of property, setup a nice huge shop, and free up funds at the same time. I am looking at the good part of this year before I have any real direction, so would rather get with you when it would be more benifitial for the both us. I do apprietiate the offer, and I will be getting in touch, don't worry bout that. I have alot of ideas to run by you when we have time, being you have been there yourself and been so successfull. Expect to hear from me before too long. Which phone do I have the best odds Of catching you on any given time? Also not sure of the time difference, best time to call, I am on eastern time here? Never know might get a wild hair blowing in the wind and give you a ring just to meet and talk in person. thanks Greg
 
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