Tenon Questoin
- Thread starter Rodney
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Tenon question
E-MAIL ME THROUGH MY WEB SITE AT blackheartcues.com if I can be of any more help.
P.S. just before glueing, I reinforce the end of the forearm, by putting a hose clamp about 1/4" from the end. That will keep it from splitting.
I use a 5/8" dia. tenon, 1" long, with a 3/8-10 screw (steel or aluminum), 1 1/2" into the tenon & 1" sticking out of the tenon...JERhot7339 said:
E-MAIL ME THROUGH MY WEB SITE AT blackheartcues.com if I can be of any more help.
P.S. just before glueing, I reinforce the end of the forearm, by putting a hose clamp about 1/4" from the end. That will keep it from splitting.
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JoeyInCali said:
I am using a 3/8 radial connecting screw. I was thinking about a 1.25 inch tenon, but I am not sure.
At this point, I am not sure what the weight of the forearm is supposed to be. Just figured trial and error would be the best way to determine that. I think the tenon area is pretty critical, and if I use trial and error to determine the tenon length, a problem may not show up for quite some time. I do not want to build and sell a cue that will definately have a problem.
Thanks for the response....Rodney
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If you are worried about the cavity splitting, you might want to turn a small tenon (.125-.250" long, it's up to you) and glue on a phenolic ring, then (after the glue is cured of course) turn it flush, and reface the end.
Then of course, if you want to, you can go to the actual "Ask the Cuemaker" thread and search through it and find some good info there.
Then of course, if you want to, you can go to the actual "Ask the Cuemaker" thread and search through it and find some good info there.
Hmm, some have the screw on the handle and into the forearm.BiG_JoN said:
Any difference?
Only on cues with points? How bout cues with no points?
.Tenon Question
I generally put the tenon & the screw in the handle,but I have done it the other way. Reguarless which way it's done, I always support the piece that has the hole in it, so that it doesn't split during assembly...JERJoeyInCali said:
I have done the handle both ways, and I like to kind of use the 2 materials being used to judge what would be best on the tenons, I always prefer the strongest material to be the female part of the mate, for one the reason Jer mentioned using the clamp. just My way of thinking for several reasons other then that. Ofcoarse with points, there is more to consider. I have heard several theories on that, and seems to be common knowledge that either male, or female on a short splice can each have their own issues, when thinking into the points lifting on the fronts of a male tenon, and possible blowout or lifting of some sort on a female. the ring is a good method that's used as jon mentioned, and seems to be even better on female tenons/bore of short splice forearms. probably though with todays glues, not as big of an issue on the points, but still a good precautionary method to think about.
The diameter of the tenon, I try to take into account what DIA the butt will be in the end. Sometimes Might go smaller on It myself, so as not to thin the wall of the female bore out too much and make It weak with side pressure, or prone to blowouts. I have not had a problem with any blowouts on that joint in that way of thinking, but I did have one when intalling a joint pin with a sort of tight fit in a cue one time. Also if you use thread rod, make sure It goes past the depth of the tenon so the tenon does not snap down the road. Just what little knowledge I have, or have heard, so please take It for what It's worth only. Greg
The diameter of the tenon, I try to take into account what DIA the butt will be in the end. Sometimes Might go smaller on It myself, so as not to thin the wall of the female bore out too much and make It weak with side pressure, or prone to blowouts. I have not had a problem with any blowouts on that joint in that way of thinking, but I did have one when intalling a joint pin with a sort of tight fit in a cue one time. Also if you use thread rod, make sure It goes past the depth of the tenon so the tenon does not snap down the road. Just what little knowledge I have, or have heard, so please take It for what It's worth only. Greg
I like Jerry's idea of putting on the hose clamp to prevent splitting the cue out. Another thing you can do in addition is scratch glue relief slots up the tenon and also cut a slot up the side of your screw or the tapped hole. This will eliminated very much pressure from building up. I usually cut my tenon on the handle. I have done it the other way also. Some think it stronger to put the tenon on the forearm as they feel the handle is getting thicker so they will have more wall thickness. But if you plan to put a wrap on the cue it is .050" smaller in the handle area because of the wrap groove. I am in the minority that uses a shorter tenon that is 5/8 diameter and 5/8 to 3/4 long. I had more buzzes in the cues when I used the one inch long tenon and had more warping.
Good luck with the cue.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
Good luck with the cue.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
cueman said:
Your not that much of a minority, I use a shorter tenon sometimes as well. I got some shortsplice blanks a while back, and they were pretty short, so had to skim what ever I could off the lenth, because i was trying the tenon on the forearm. you are correct, atleast in that case it was solid feeling, and hit great. No buzzes like you said, but I guess only time will tell for sure. It did catch My attention, so I would not hessitate to go that way. I also cut glue lines as well.
Sheldon, wouldn't the epoxy get there BEFORE it burps at the top?Sheldon said:
Tenon ?
I've done it this way too. If you put a piece of masking tape over the releif hole, it will wait til it fills up then blow out the tape. You'll have plenty of glue in the joint...JERJoeyInCali said: