Test question for all Billiards Technicians

NoBull9 said:
I guess my concern would be will the glue hold over time.I've seen installers glue the slate and Brunswick recomends it but I don't I haven't had a problem with seams seperating.

The glue will hold until you take it apart. "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
 
Thanks

So do you think you would just shim to tighten the pockets.I am also thinking of having the mica redone.Any input is apprciated
Again thank you
 
oldroller said:
So do you think you would just shim to tighten the pockets.I am also thinking of having the mica redone.Any input is apprciated
Again thank you
Hmmmm....hmmmm...these are not very good tables to shim the pockets very tight on because 4 1/2" pocket openings tend to really curve the ears of the drop pockets inward, but it can be done. How tight are you thinking about making the pockets? Changing the p-lam on the rails is no small task, but can also be done. How's the dato under the rail holding up from all the years of stapling into it, because it it's stapled out you may want to repair that area as well at the same time. I'd get new pockets I guess to, and while I was at it...send out the pocket castings to be cleaned and chrome plated. Hmmmm...might want to think about refinishing the side skirts as well if you're going to do everything else too. By the way, how do the leg pedestals look, and the feet for that matter?
 
Pockets

are 5" at the mouth I think I would (maybe) go with 4 5/8".I have a ball park quote from a guy that builds tables and is supposed to be very good on the laminate & the rubber.I met a guy at DCC that restores GCs and he said he has the castings bead blasted,I'll have to check into that.As far as the rest of the things you mentioned I won't know all the answers until I take the table apart.I got a reasonable deal on the table a few years ago so I guess I don't mind spending the money on it as it will be the last table I will own.I didn't ask the guy what brand of K55 he uses but I want it the best it can be.I don't want to sound like money is no object,,this is just some things I might do. Thanks for your input
 
Great thread, thanks for the all the info realkingcobra.

NoBull9 - Is the slate gluing technique available in those tech updates they send to the dealer ? If so I can get them,If not could you explain that some more?Thanks.
 
I don't remember when the glue info came available I think we had sent a few new guy's to the Brunswick training and they came back with the info.They talked about how some 300 lb guy stood on a 3/4 inch slate table that had been glued at three points at each piece the slate was not screwed down,they said you could see the slate flex but the seams stayed together.
 
NoBull9 said:
I don't remember when the glue info came available I think we had sent a few new guy's to the Brunswick training and they came back with the info.They talked about how some 300 lb guy stood on a 3/4 inch slate table that had been glued at three points at each piece the slate was not screwed down,they said you could see the slate flex but the seams stayed together.

yeah, I was at one of those, the guy stood on it. we actually unscrewed the slates and jerked and one end side to side and could not get the slates seems to pop. It was just using liquid dowels in three spots
 
Back in the 80's up at Harry P. Cues we use to play on Gold Crown W's and do a lot of gambling. Sometimes because of the amount of money...and "rules of the rail birds" the players would have to post the money up on top of the pool light. I remember a game once that involved $16,000.00 in race to 125 playing 14.1 straight pool. Harry was ahead 121 to 52 when he missed. I ran out from there to win...LOL..oh, that's another story...LMAO. Anyway the point of this story is that because everyone was always climbing on top of the table to recover the money off the pool light I could never keep the seams together on that one particular pool table. Bound and determined to fix the table once and for all, as I took the table apart again to fix the seams...once again, I got a wonderful idea...why don't I just super glue the slates together and then I'll never have to worry about having to fix them ever again...so I went out, got me some super glue...and glued the slates aaaaaaall the way across the seams. Never had to worry about them coming apart again after that. So, I learned something good from that bad experience of having to fix another broken seam, I never had to fix them anywhere else...just there, and just on that one particular pool table. I also learned when Harry P. Cues closed down years later how much super glue NOT to use....LMFAO!

So, in answer to your question, super glue the slates in 3 places. 1" from the outside edge of the slates for about 3 to 4" inward. Then in the middle of the slates about the same 3 to 4". As your in the process of leveling the slates, place 1 to 2 business cards between the slates where you're going to be placing the super glue. Go ahead and finish leveling the slates. Then before you finish the seams cut the business cards off flush with the surface of the slates. Place the super glue on top of the business cards, gluing the slates and business cards all at once. The business cards act like a dowel for the glue. And they also make it a lot easier to take the slates apart at a later date.

Glen
 
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Great stuff. Al Conte sells its. www.Contesales.com

Pat O'Donnell
www.Pool-Table-Services.com
 
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