That Pred Z2 shaft again...

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have now got the Z2 shaft discussed earlier back again,
see http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=90346

We discussed Daves method and Dick recommended keeping the tenon in place even if it is very thin.

The shaft came to me today, and I have to start on it tomorrow morning to finnish it for the customer in a couple of hours so he could get it back (tomorrow).

I have received titan plastic and I'm not sure which method to use, normal capped titan or a tenon made with Daves ideas. Also I'm not sure if I have the time to use epoxy (cure over night) so I'm considering the Loctite 454 (gel superglue) but I'm not sure if this is a wise decision.
EDIT: I also have elforyn but the owner would like to have it as close to the new shaft he had to buy, as possible. Elforyn feels very heavy, and I'm not sure how it compares to titan http://www.dzcues.com/ferrule_weight_comparison.htm

So I'm just trying to prepare my self for a early start tomorrow and making my mind up on what to do so I don't spend to much time judging what to do or how to.

Any one recommendations and feedback would be highly appreciated.

Kent
 
Last edited:
Hi Kent,
Superglue is not a good choice as it does not withstand impact well.
I suggest that you use 2 ton epoxy. If you are going to have it done by tomorrow you better get started. Try to duplicate the original ferrule as closely as possible.
 
KJ Cues said:
Hi Kent,
Superglue is not a good choice as it does not withstand impact well.
I suggest that you use 2 ton epoxy. If you are going to have it done by tomorrow you better get started. Try to duplicate the original ferrule as closely as possible.
Click to expand...

I think also this is the wisest way of doing this. I'll check on what type of epoxy I have, but if I don't remember wrong I had both the 2 ton version and the quicker one. I'll try to post a update tomorrow, when I actually start. Local time is 23:38 so it would not be a night repair :-)

Thanks

Kent
 
Two ton epoxy...

Two ton epoxy is the way I have always put ferrules on. When I watched Joe Black Burn doing Predator warranty work at the Super Billiards Expo, he put them on with regular wood glue, the stuff from Titebond, Titebond II if I remember correctly. He said it is plenty strong for the ferrule repairs. He is authorized by Predator to do factory warranty work on their shafts, so if he does it that way, it must be good enough for anyone else too.
 
Newton said:
I have now got the Z2 shaft discussed earlier back again,
see http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=90346

We discussed Daves method and Dick recommended keeping the tenon in place even if it is very thin.

The shaft came to me today, and I have to start on it tomorrow morning to finnish it for the customer in a couple of hours so he could get it back (tomorrow).

I have received titan plastic and I'm not sure which method to use, normal capped titan or a tenon made with Daves ideas. Also I'm not sure if I have the time to use epoxy (cure over night) so I'm considering the Loctite 454 (gel superglue) but I'm not sure if this is a wise decision.
EDIT: I also have elforyn but the owner would like to have it as close to the new shaft he had to buy, as possible. Elforyn feels very heavy, and I'm not sure how it compares to titan http://www.dzcues.com/ferrule_weight_comparison.htm

So I'm just trying to prepare my self for a early start tomorrow and making my mind up on what to do so I don't spend to much time judging what to do or how to.

Any one recommendations and feedback would be highly appreciated.

Kent
Click to expand...

I would make the new ferrule just like the old one, I would never use anything except epoxy especially because it isn't threaded.
 
Update on the job, Z^2 shaf repaired

Well, I did not make it in one night/day, so I took my time and did a thorough investigation on this shaft. It's my first Z shaft ferrule job so I was taking the careful job.

Here is a pic of how i looked. Kamui tip is used.
 

Attachments

  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    21.3 KB · Views: 356
Tip has been removed and first pass on the lathe has been done.
As the picture hopefully show, the crack is still there and is for sure going deep...
 

Attachments

  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    24.3 KB · Views: 338
Second pass: The ferrule split along the crack. No wonder the customer felt he heard strange noises...
 

Attachments

  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    16.2 KB · Views: 331
Several passes later:
The caped ferrule left overs fell off. Note the beefy cap.... Prox 4.5-5mm !
 

Attachments

  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    13.8 KB · Views: 327
Left overs, which needed to be cleaned up...
 

Attachments

  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    17.3 KB · Views: 330
New ferrule made out of Titan.. Drill first with a end mill
 

Attachments

  • 8.jpg
    8.jpg
    31 KB · Views: 344
And turned to the correct diameter. Press fit..
 

Attachments

  • 9.jpg
    9.jpg
    22.7 KB · Views: 333
Last pic showing a hint of glue line. I did use epoxy and let it rest over the night. I really don't want the ferrule to fall off again and the customer must feel a big difference compared to the crapy original ferrule.

How is the ferrule repairs on these in the US? I mean, did?nt Pred have a serious issue with the gluing process some time ago? I guess what I'm asking about is how many repairs do you do on these, where the "warranty" is not helping out the customers ?

As mentioned earlier in the linked thread - first post - the customer had the ferrule falling off fairly short time after he received it.. And he did not get any help on this so I have done the work for him that the Pred guys should have done - free. But this is the first and only time that happens..

Kent
 
Hi Kent,
Great job, you should do well in this game.
I have some thoughts I'd like to share with you for the next job.

1.) In the hollow of the shaft, just under the cap of the ferrule, there should be a small foam pad that plugs the hole. It's purpose is to keep the epoxy from running down into the hollow. No big deal if it's not there. It looks to be stuck to the underside of the old ferrule's cap. Again, no biggie.

2.) Note the pic in post #10. The white that you see is a pigment that the Chinese added to 'hide' the glue line. The pigment compromised the integrity of the epoxy and that's why a lot of them let-go.

Predator would have handled this as a warranty issue and would have taken care of this free of charge, excluding shipping.
I don't have to make the ferrules as Predator supplies them to me but you did a very good job of fabricating one. Again, GREAT job!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top