The hardest joint material

Kingpin

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was talking with a friend today about Ivory and bone type joint materials. After some further research I was interested to hear what others thought about Juma and Phenolic when compared to the natural materials. My goal is hard hitting, loud toink sounding type cue.
 
Ivory

Ivory is my choice. Many will argue about it. I like that it's natural. It gives a feedback to the user that is second to none. Hit is subjective. I do not like a soft or dead hit. I actually like the hit to be as hard and raw as possible. You will have to expiriment with different shaft tapers to find the correct combination to achieve this. The shaft and it's taper are the character of the cue. But - a solid flatface ivory joint and ivory ferrule is my choice to find that perfect characteristic of pure hit. Please understand that many different opinions will be spat at you. Like I said - hit is subjective. Not all people that drink wine have a distinguished palate. Wine has tones, notes and hints of different richness. So do cues. Be careful who you listen to.
 
I was talking with a friend today about Ivory and bone type joint materials. After some further research I was interested to hear what others thought about Juma and Phenolic when compared to the natural materials. My goal is hard hitting, loud toink sounding type cue.

sure as hell ain't juma. You may try phenolic or Ivorine 4. Couple that with a lbm ferrule and hard tip and you should have a noisy cue. Ivory in my opinion would be much closer to phenolic in hardness than juma. The only thing I know about horn is that it smells like ass when you cut it
 
I was talking with a friend today about Ivory and bone type joint materials. After some further research I was interested to hear what others thought about Juma and Phenolic when compared to the natural materials. My goal is hard hitting, loud toink sounding type cue.

Joint collar material shouldn't matter much. A hard, pingy cue begin with the woods chosen for the forearm & handle, IMO. The ferrule/tip certainly make the cue audible, but so does a big exhaust on a Honda Civic. If you want the sound AND the muscle behind it, begin with the base woods.
 
Ok, so lets take this a step further. What natural material has the harder hit? I have seen several types from Stag horn to moose antler, Ivory, etc. Just looking for a little direction. Thanks.

Qbuilder, I have chosen Cocobolo for the front and birseye maple for the back of a full splice blank. Im fairly certain these woods should get me to where Im hoping to be. My question is more towards, will the joint components add a bit to the tonal excitement of the woods. I am not assuming an ivory joint will make a balsa cue hit like an ebony cue. Im simply trying to add to, what Im hoping, is a an already quality hit. Any stance on Ivory or Bone to add to the cue hit? All hogwash? lol Thanks for your help. :-)
 
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Any stance on Ivory or Bone to add to the cue hit? All hogwash?

Not all hogwash, but not as much difference as you may be hoping for. IMO, a bigger factor would be the manner in which the joint is installed. Is it a sleeve? If so, what is the tenon diameter? A 1/2" tenon will allow the joint material to be more of a factor than a 5/8" tenon. To parallel this, the length of the collar will play a role. Longer collars will be more of a factor than short collars. For instance, a 1" long PVC collar on a 1/2" diameter tenon will compress when flexed quite a bit more than a 1/4" long PVC collar on a 5/8" tenon, thus giving a softer hit. Simply put, the more of the material you use, the more difference it will make.

As for natural materials, you'll be hard pressed to find anything harder than fossil walrus jawbone. It's in all likeliness harder than many types of steel. Hippo ivory is pretty dang hard, too.

IMO, what really matters isn't necessarily the material you use, but how you use it. A builder must recognize & understand the purpose of the component. In this instance it's a joint collar. The purpose of a joint collar is to reinforce the wood around the joint pin, to prevent it from splitting. It also gives a solid base for the shaft to rest, and is usually made of something that doesn't fluctuate in dimension with climatic changes. The fluctuation causes the joint face to tweak this way or that, making the cue appear warped. Therefore, a solid, strong, stable material best suits the purpose. A joint collar never was intended to influence playability. It's purpose was to solve the problem of cues cracking & splitting at the joint.
 
Loud toink sound, that's a steel joint.
LBM is also quite hard, phenolic is softer than LBM, but harder than Elforyn, Juma and other similar materials.
 
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