The Standard One Pocket Break

[Samiel]

Since I will be participating in a One Pocket Tournament this weekend, I thought I'd try to put up a poll regarding the "Standard" One Pocket Break. If you don't have a clue what the "Standard" One Pocket Break is, I'm guessing you don't play One Pocket!

The "Standard" One Pocket Break is hitting with high inside english, hitting both the first and second ball at the top of the rack, but barely clipping the first ball.

Anyhow, I was curious to how well this break is executed. Myself, I'm about a 50% chance to be in a pretty good to very good position after this break.

After the "Standard" One Pocket Break are you...

1. In a bad position (scratched, left your opponent a shot at his hole)
2. In a not so good position (your opponent can leave you dead safe)
3. In a pretty good position (your opponent can't do much at all)
4. In a very good position (made a ball, hooked your opponent badly)

 

[bigskyjake]

I used to scratch alot on the break but now I'm usually laying decent to quite nice after the break

 

[Andrew Manning]

Sometimes I leave my opponent very bad in terms of return options, but sometimes I leave an easy lock-up return shot available. I don't have the one-pocket experience level yet to know how to skew that percentage more toward leaving my opponent no options. If I ever started playing one-pocket more regularly, I'd spend some time practicing the break, since I'd be requesting it as a spot a lot

-Andrew

 

[dirtybobjr]

Since I will be participating in a One Pocket Tournament this weekend, I thought I'd try to put up a poll regarding the "Standard" One Pocket Break. If you don't have a clue what the "Standard" One Pocket Break is, I'm guessing you don't play One Pocket!

The "Standard" One Pocket Break is hitting with high inside english, hitting both the first and second ball at the top of the rack, but barely clipping the first ball.

Anyhow, I was curious to how well this break is executed. Myself, I'm about a 50% chance to be in a pretty good to very good position after this break.

After the "Standard" One Pocket Break are you...

1. In a bad position (scratched, left your opponent a shot at his hole)
2. In a not so good position (your opponent can leave you dead safe)
3. In a pretty good position (your opponent can't do much at all)
4. In a very good position (made a ball, hooked your opponent badly)

I have better luck hitting between the 2nd and 3rd balls, and sometimes make one on the break in my hole. But I'm no champion.

 

[CaptainHook]

Sometimes I leave my opponent very bad in terms of return options, but sometimes I leave an easy lock-up return shot available. I don't have the one-pocket experience level yet to know how to skew that percentage more toward leaving my opponent no options. If I ever started playing one-pocket more regularly, I'd spend some time practicing the break, since I'd be requesting it as a spot a lot

-Andrew

1P is alternating break, a "Spot" would be 9-6 or 10-5 etc etc depending on the skill level of the players.

 

[Andrew Manning]

1P is alternating break, a "Spot" would be 9-6 or 10-5 etc etc depending on the skill level of the players.

Yes, I don't play much one-pocket, but I am quite familiar with pool terminology. Strong players do indeed spot the breaks all the time, instead of, or in addition to, spotting balls. I believe Grady Matthews has said that the break is worth about a ball and a half, although I'm not going to do the research right now to find out if I'm remembering that accurately.

-Andrew

 

[BazookaJoe]

Yes, I don't play much one-pocket, but I am quite familiar with pool terminology. Strong players do indeed spot the breaks all the time, instead of, or in addition to, spotting balls. I believe Grady Matthews has said that the break is worth about a ball and a half, although I'm not going to do the research right now to find out if I'm remembering that accurately.

-Andrew

The ball and a half estimate varies with the speed of the players involved.
When you are spotted the breaks it is usually understood that you will alternate sides on every other break.

 

[Samiel]

Using the "Standard" break, I find I'm only about a 50/50 chance on getting a good return. Unless I make a ball, my opponent can probably get out the break 90% of the time, but probably only 50% of those times does it improve their position.

I'm starting to lean toward a "Safer" break that has a very little chance at leaving my opponent anything except to play safe in return. The only problem with this "Safer" break is that it doesn't leave a lot of balls on my side. Still, against strong opponents, a 50/50 proposition isn't a very good percentage. Maybe I just need to practice the "Standard" break a few hundred more times!

 

[Hierovision]

I tried something more like a 14.1 break that got me better results than the standard break over 10-15 games. It leaves a LOT less for your opponent and makes for a very interesting safety battle. I wouldn't use it against Efren, but it's effective against anyone without perfect CB control.
Like this:

CueTable Help

I hit the 2nd to last ball first with slight top right and they break towards my pocket while usually leaving nothing for my opponent, better than the "standard" 1 pocket break.

 

[mosconiac]

I hit the 2nd to last ball first with slight top right and they break towards my pocket while usually leaving nothing for my opponent, better than the "standard" 1 pocket break.

I saw Buddy Hall use this break (or something similar) against JJ. He did this in response to breaking poorly using the "standard" break.

I've found that the difference in hit between a good and great break (using the standard break) can be subtle. You can go from scratching on the break to making a ball and running 8 just by slightly changing your break angle & thickness of hit.

Here is a previous post I made on the subject with examples.

Here's something you can try that really works for me...you just can't use it to beat me some day!

I have found that some tables really respond to this break (check out the cuetable below for a visual): I place the CB out a little further than typical (my cue usually hovers over point of corner pocket as I am shooting) and I aim directly at the center ball on the rear of the rack (the 9 in this case)with inside, slightly low spin. I try to ignore the other balls and focus solely on that rear ball.

If that does not work, I usually move the CB a bit and try again or aim elsewhere (usually the intersection of two balls).

http://CueTable.com/P/?@3AALW4BCYB3...KDnP3LBjP3MEMO4NBJl3OBal1PRRd1kRRd3kCBT1uBGR@

Here's a cheap little pic to help you understand what I am saying. In the upper setup (as you would see it while breaking from the left of the rack), I am aiming directly at the rear, center ball. If that doesn't work, I'll adjust the CB a little and maybe aim at another ball as shown in the middle setup. If that doesn't work, I'll try the intersection of two balls (the shadowed ones).

This way, I always have a specific target to shoot at. I hear some say, "I aim at the second ball and try to clip the head ball just a little bit." I don't know about you, but I won't leave a shot as vital as the 1P break to something as vague & uncertain as that.

I found some old video that I think you can benefit from. I was practicing the 1P break detailed above (aiming at the center ball on the rear of the rack with my cue lined up over the corner of the pocket).

The first video helps you recognize when the hit on the head ball is (slightly) too thick. Look for the corner balls (nearest your pocket) to hit the end rail quickly and CB to carry more speed into the end rail. If this happens, you can move the CB a little closer (a 1/4-1/2" or so) to the rail and shoot at the same target.

Mediocre break:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-eh3MQ5AGE

The second video shows my preferred result. A (slightly) lighter hit on the head ball sends the corner ball right in front of (if not in) my pocket and the CB speed is reduced so it can snuggle up against the side rail. Practice this break a few times and see how your results improve. I've made the corner ball three times in a row before. I also made the corner ball in a hill-hill situation for all the marbles too broke & ran out in Chicago, baby!

Better break:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLJsFg_RiGo

It goes without saying (sorta) that you need a consistent rack to expect this result, but you are checking the rack, right?

BTW, I've since learned to break from the opposite side of the table. It's easier for a righty to reach shots from that side of the table. If your opponent is a righty too, you have a built-in advantage because he will end up in awkward stances on occasion. Further, if they are oblivious to this they might be fooled into not alternating sides and you can keep them parked there all day not that I would ever do that to someone.

 

[seymore15074]

I play the standard break the vast majority of the time. It's dependable.

Depending on your 1P skill and which break you use, the break could be worth little or a lot.

Spots in 1P are often balls, sometimes breaks, and sometimes the balls are even more than what are on the table. I would think that if you get spotted the break, the standard break is your best option. You do not want to use a safer break or you will not benefit from the spot as much, and anything more gutsy than the standard break is just plain retarded, no matter what the game!

 

[seymore15074]

I saw Buddy Hall use this break (or something similar) against JJ. He did this in response to breaking poorly using the "standard" break.

I've found that the difference in hit between a good and great break (using the standard break) can be subtle. You can go from scratching on the break to making a ball and running 8 just by slightly changing your break angle & thickness of hit.

Here is a previous post I made on the subject with examples.

No matter how many times I hear people claim they aim at "targets" other than what they're really shooting, I still call BS! The rack could be tilted, such that you couldn't even detect it, and this is supposed to be more consistant than aiming at the contact point?

 

[seymore15074]

I hit the 2nd to last ball first with slight top right and they break towards my pocket while usually leaving nothing for my opponent, better than the "standard" 1 pocket break.

Yes, this results in less options for your opponent. It also results in less balls pushed to your own hole, though.

Has anyone tried to slow-roll the cue ball into the 1st ball thick enough to just stick the cue-ball in the side of the rack? It leaves a nightmare for your opponent, and pushes about 2 balls out; however, speed mistakes will be devistating.

A friend of mine breaks by kicking off of the rail and into the rack; his results are usually pretty good.

I'm ready to play some 1P after all of this!

 

[mosconiac]

You editted out the part where I said, "It goes without saying (sorta) that you need a consistent rack to expect this result, but you are checking the rack, right?"

I've shown mine (how I break and what I aim at), can you show yours?

Surely you are not suggesting that because the rack may not be perfect that you should not attempt to develop a strategy for consistent break.

 

[seymore15074]

You editted out the part where I said, "It goes without saying (sorta) that you need a consistent rack to expect this result, but you are checking the rack, right?"

I must have missed it. Sorry about that.

I've shown mine (how I break and what I aim at), can you show yours?

Surely you are not suggesting that because the rack may not be perfect that you should not attempt to develop a strategy for consistent break.

Sure. I cut the 1st ball straight sideways with high-right. I know it sounds perplexing, but I'll add/subtract the ammount of high depending on the tilt of the rack. Not much varience, but just a touch. Obviously, if the rack is noticably tilted, I'm asking for a re-rack.

There are some pictures of the break on onepocket.org that you may find interesting. Another funny side-effect of this break is that if you hit the 1st ball too thin you'll sometimes pocket the corner ball. (although you're shape is then jeopardized)

 

[8ballEinstein]

I was in El Paso last month and stopped in at Clicks. I got matched up with a nice fella in 1-pocket and he had a break I have never seen before. The way I remember it, he struck the 3rd row ball, about 3/4 full, with a slow center-ball stroke. The corner ball and the cueball would die on the bottom rail together, blocking any chance for a good reply. The first time he shot this, I was stunned because he left me nothing. The next time he did it, he left me ABSOLUTELY nothing.

It didn't always work out real good for him but I was just impressed to see a different break. I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this break or even uses it as part of their arsenal.

 

[shag_fu]

I like mosconiaks break. I do about the same thing but i put the cueball about 3 fingers off the long rail instead of the 6 or so inches he uses. As you move the cue ball closer to the center of the table you are less likely to make the corner ball, but more likely to leave less for your oponent. The same holds true for which pair of balls you hit. The 1st/2nd pair is the most aggressive, and the last or 3rd/4th pair is generally considered the least aggressive/most defensive. Something that you should think about when playing 1pocket at all times is One Pocket Ghost's mantra: Intelligently Aggressive. When breaking if something doesnt work for you then change a bit. It took me quite a bit of practice to hit the 1st/2nd pair with the cue 1.5" of the rail and get good results. When playing I opted for a "safer" more idiot proof break until I was comfortable with the more aggressive break. And yes aiming at a certain point in the rack has brought my break up 10fold.

 

[Samiel]

Lately, I've been trying the slow roll break, full into the first ball. My speed control is good enough that I've yet to leave my opponent anything to shoot at. The only problem is that it knocks only a few balls towards my side.

I guess in the long run, having more balls on your side really helps quite a bit in terms of a stronger position. Your opponent can't get away with some things because of the threat of you having balls on your side. I guess this is why the standard break is standard. It puts a lot of balls toward your side with a little risk, but for the risk, you get a good return. I am just not currently skilled enough to take advantage of that return!