Thinking of selling a Gilbert and have questions about 5/16-14 versus 3/8-10 joints

Thanks again CornerMan. I think the sound and feel of the hit with the old Adams cue I have with the 5/16-14 joint just sounds cleaner and more distinct than the thud I feel and hear with the 3/8-10 joint. Like I admitted earlier it could all be just psychological to me, but if my mind is telling me that I play better with the 5/16-14 joint why shouldn't I listen to it.
I agree there are of course other factors besides the joint that you mentioned above, but to me the most significant factor other than the ferrule and tip is how the two pieces of the cue are connected since ultimately the objective is to give the feeling of playing with a one piece cue.
Thanks again!
 
Tips

Before you sell the Gilbert, try a couple different tips on it. U didn't say if the Adams and Gilbert have the same tips, if they don't try a few different tips on the Gilbert to see if that helps. I've had cues I thought were dogs (to me) and just switching tips improved the hit.
Good luck.
 
Haha good point!
Just thought of something: are there 3/8-10 shafts that have metal threads inside? In other words, are there 3/8-10 shafts with female threads inside the shaft part that fit into the 3/8-10 male pin on the butt.

I could still use some help answering this question above ^^^
 
I feel the shaft taper, ferrule, and tip play a bigger role in terms of how the cue hits.

I think the way a cue resonates has more relation to the joint. I prefer flat face wood to wood joint, (and wrapless) because I think the cue has more of a one piece vibration and tone, which I think is what people consider “feedback.”

Metal jointed cues hit nicely but there’s just a certain something missing, not in the actual hit or energy transfer to the cue ball, but in the tone and vibration...lack of “feedback.”

But again, this is always a subjective matter, it’s always whatever someone prefers. I don’t think one’s better than the other I just know what I like and why I like it.
 
I could still use some help answering this question above ^^^

Not that I can recall ever seeing. Some have the threads cut into phenolic or another similar material. Properly cared for, a 3/8-10 shaft with the threads cut directly into the maple can last a lifetime.

Would love to see the Gilbert. Post pics pls
 
Here is a picture of my Gilbert cue. Will post more later and give full details and price in the for sale section.
 

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Here are more pics of the Gilbert I will be selling.
 

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Every ivory joint cue in my signatuire uses a big pin thread and flat faced wood shaft.
I will never own a cue that doesn't have this combination which is my all time favorite.

Everyone is entitled to prefer, endorse, or play with anything they like or currently own.
However, your cue has to have weight proportionality in the shaft and butt to work best.

Far too many cue-makers rely upon a weight bolt to hit the target and that's so unfortunate.
And when a bolt is used, its placement is critical and also whether one or several are used.
You do not want to wind up owning a cue with a 16.25 oz. cue butt & 3.5 oz. shafts ....JMO.
 
Hello Bavafongoul. I agree with your assessment of the weight bolt. Do you happen to know if Tascarellas are made with that? What about Gilbert's cues? I thought most cues had those weight bolts, but maybe you are saying some builders use too heavy of a weight?
 
I hit with a big pin Gilbert last night, as well as a 5/16 x 14 ss Tascarella. Loved them both. It is Joint + pin + cuemaker, not just joint + pin. I have had 'not like' of all joint/pin combos and also loved examples of each. There are certainly 'most likely' feel/hit results of each combo but there are plenty of exceptions.
 
Every ivory joint cue in my signatuire uses a big pin thread and flat faced wood shaft.
I will never own a cue that doesn't have this combination which is my all time favorite.

Everyone is entitled to prefer, endorse, or play with anything they like or currently own.
However, your cue has to have weight proportionality in the shaft and butt to work best.

Far too many cue-makers rely upon a weight bolt to hit the target and that's so unfortunate.
And when a bolt is used, its placement is critical and also whether one or several are used.
You do not want to wind up owning a cue with a 16.25 oz. cue butt & 3.5 oz. shafts ....JMO.

I guess I should burn my EDC, then. 16oz butt. 3.7oz shafts.
 
I guess I should burn my EDC, then. 16oz butt. 3.7oz shafts.

You are safe by .2 ounces on each.

A few days ago I weighed all of my butts and shafts, calculated butt weight as a proportion of total weight and compared to balance points. There was no correlation. That should tell us something about weight bolts vs spreading extra weight in other areas along the butt vs starting off with light or heavy wood. It all makes a difference.
 
Some really good feedback here thanks guys! As much as I would love to get the Tascarella with the 3/8-10 joint I think I'll wait and order one with the 5/16-14 from him directly.
I think for some reason I can feel the difference between the two joints and if I am getting a new cue I'll stick to the 5/16-14.

I have owned several cues with the 3/8 pin and the 5/16ths pin. My Tascarella cue
features something that I really like and it is a 5/16ths pin one


Tasc.joint.jpg


What I like is it is an ivory joint with a stainless sleeve. There is no weight bolt
in my cue, and the butt is 15.1 with both shafts coming in at 4.2. When this cue
screws together, the connection is locked tight from the compression fit design.
 
I have owned several cues with the 3/8 pin and the 5/16ths pin. My Tascarella cue
features something that I really like and it is a 5/16ths pin one


View attachment 488779


What I like is it is an ivory joint with a stainless sleeve. There is no weight bolt
in my cue, and the butt is 15.1 with both shafts coming in at 4.2. When this cue
screws together, the connection is locked tight from the compression fit design.

Very interesting combination. Something I might consider as well.
 
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