Thread Mill for 3/8-10
- Thread starter cueman
- Start date
Chris, I think this guy on Ebay may help. I bought a 1/4" one a little while ago. I think he makes them himself. heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-TM-1875-C-...ryZ58224QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
He usually has 3 sizes, maybe he can make the size you need. Hope this helps.
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16-TM-1875-C-...ryZ58224QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
He usually has 3 sizes, maybe he can make the size you need. Hope this helps.
Dave
TM-375 3/8 1/4 .002 2 1/2 .093 4
http://www.micro100.com/
Might have to request getting the cutter down to 5/16.
I get them ground locally.
http://www.micro100.com/
Might have to request getting the cutter down to 5/16.
I get them ground locally.
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cueman said:
You'll have to get the 1/4'' one...... take it to a tool grinder and have him grind it to your specs. I have used these and they work great after they were ground in. I had him extend the neck so I could go deeper in a blind hole. Had him take the neck down to .140 diameter.
I couldn't find anything I liked out of a catalog.
I got mine from msc but I did have to do some custom grinding with a toolpost grinder and a diamond wheel. The shank and cutting head were the right size but the shank was something like 3/8 where the tool mounts. Perhaps a group buy on custom made cutters could help get the cost down. Chris.
I may have a solution to this.. I will be going out to see my carbide guy about my sanding mandrels. Can some one pm me with some exact specs. I can get them ground but I need to know who wants what.. I plan to get a bunch made and get a better price..
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Here is my idea. Why not take a 1/8" x 3" dowel pin or carbide blank Braze one tooth of carbide to the end on one side and grind it to a large enough 60 degree tooth to cut the threads. Now use a 1/8" collet in the router or you can use it as is in a dremel. It will also work on a 5/16" internal thread as you turn the router off, turn the sharp part toward the hole and back it out. I saw a one tooth large version for making Carom cues. John, inquire about having some made like that and see what it would cost.
Thanks Chris.
Here is what I have so far. That came up... One flute/ cutter. My concern would be balance. Anything spinning that fast I would want balanced. What I am looking at is using either a 1/4 shank or 1/8 shank and 3 or 4 flutes. 2.5 " OAL Max cutter dia. of 0.280" min of 0.205" this will give you some room to get back out of the shaft or whatever without messing up the threads. You would probably be able to cut them in one shot with a tool like this. Shut it off and get out without worry. Any one out there have input on this. We never got as far as price yet but I know it would be better to buy bulk. I am going to use 1/8 " shank. I use a pencil grinder now for ext. tennon threads. 60 degree pointed mill. Too slow.
I just need some input to see what to get built..
Here is what I have so far. That came up... One flute/ cutter. My concern would be balance. Anything spinning that fast I would want balanced. What I am looking at is using either a 1/4 shank or 1/8 shank and 3 or 4 flutes. 2.5 " OAL Max cutter dia. of 0.280" min of 0.205" this will give you some room to get back out of the shaft or whatever without messing up the threads. You would probably be able to cut them in one shot with a tool like this. Shut it off and get out without worry. Any one out there have input on this. We never got as far as price yet but I know it would be better to buy bulk. I am going to use 1/8 " shank. I use a pencil grinder now for ext. tennon threads. 60 degree pointed mill. Too slow.
I just need some input to see what to get built..
I have seen the single flute on 1/4" shank that was sticking out like 4 inches. does fine. I think the shank sticking out needs to be less than 150 if you plan to use more than one flute. I would like 2 inches of cut depth. I may take the regrind of existing bits option if we don't come up with something. I thread milled a stainless steel 3/8 joint screw today. I doubt the thread mill will hold up long doing that, but it was making brass and wood parts like a breeze. At the present time it will take two different bits to do inside and outside threads for 3/8-10. I am trying to get this down to one bit does all.RocketQ said:
cueman said:
I tried the 1 flute deal and didn't like.......had to take multiple, small passes for a good cut.
You cut the SS with your thread mill using what?
I don't cut my own pins but have been using the same thread mill for over 8 yrs without a resharp (dedicated solely for shafts) to cut the threads of my shafts. IMO it is the only way to do this.....I can custom fit the tightness of each shaft on the pin.
I also cut the threads for every other assembly procedure using a high speed mill. Taps are used for cleaning glue and unwanted foreign objects from existing threads only.
Chris....call me about it if you like.
I used a standard carbide thread mill to make the stainless pin. I am guessing the life of the mill would be short if I continued doing that. I figured out that the standard thread mill will but 3/8-10 inside threads since you are going into a .301 to .312 hole and only have to thread out to .382" I will have to have a different one to make the outside threads that large.BarenbruggeCues said:
Thanks for the help.