Tiger Saber T Ferrules

PoolFool

PoolFool

Judge me by my size do u?
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I just recieved a shipment of Tiger Saber T Ferrules which are about 1" long. I just noticed that they aren't pre drilled, as opposed to other ferrules like Porper, Aegis and Mammoth. My question is when I drill the hole to fit a tenon, how deep does one usually go into the ferrule material? Should I just eyeball it or should i just go about 1/2" to 3/4" into it? Also what is the average size of the hole 5/16"? Does it really matter? I would appreciate any response. Thanks.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Do you want to thread it or just slip-on press-fit ?
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I usually use threaded ferrules when I replace them. I have a threading chuck to make the groves for both the ferrule itself and then tenon. Slip-on press-fit would seem like the easiest way to go, i guess; but it's something I'd rather avoid doing because I don't think it'll hold very well. My real concern is how deep to drill into the ferrule though. Should I go with the standard tenon length (about 3/8"), longer or shorter? (edited: I meant 5/8" btw... 3/8" would be too short)
 
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PoolFool said:
I usually use threaded ferrules when I replace them. I have a threading chuck to make the groves for both the ferrule itself and then tenon. Slip-on press-fit would seem like the easiest way to go, i guess; but it's something I'd rather avoid doing because I don't think it'll hold very well. My real concern is how deep to drill into the ferrule though. Should I go with the standard tenon length (about 3/8"), longer or shorter?
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Ive always drilled 1" capped ferrules to a depth of .750".

Dick
 
PoolFool said:
I usually use threaded ferrules when I replace them. I have a threading chuck to make the groves for both the ferrule itself and then tenon. Slip-on press-fit would seem like the easiest way to go, i guess; but it's something I'd rather avoid doing because I don't think it'll hold very well. My real concern is how deep to drill into the ferrule though. Should I go with the standard tenon length (about 3/8"), longer or shorter?
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I'd leave a cap of 3/16 at least.
 
Standard............

In the secret society of building cues there are no standards...........
make it how ever you feel comfortable doing it.
Threaded is best......just make it longer than three full threads.

Dave
 
Or...
you could just drill a 1/4" hole all the way through the ferrule. Then just make sure when you trim the tenon, that you get it the perfect diameter so the ferrule just barely slips on...so tight as it feels you need no glue. Then glue it up and face off again...now you have the tenon flush with the top of the ferrule. A lot of players prefer this method...they believe this gives them more feel because now the tip will be glued to the tenon as well as the ferrule. Just another option. I have never had a problem when I used this type of install.;)
 
Thank you to everyone for the responses. On another note, how do the Saber T ferrules compare as far as hit and durability to others? I know, I'm just full of questions. I'm new to the cue repair biz and trying to soak up as much as I can. Thanks again for all the replies.
 
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Varney Cues said:
Or...
you could just drill a 1/4" hole all the way through the ferrule...
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I have actually thought about doing this in the beginning. But I've never liked ferrules that had the tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. Although I wouldn't rule out the possibility of drilling it all the way through; what are the Pros and Cons of doing it this way? I would believe it would give a softer hit; am i correct in thinking so? I guess I can always make it to order depending on the customer. I personally like a more solid hit and wouldn't like any tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. I guess I could start a voting thread and get some feedback, but since this post is already done, I'll just ask for some feedback here.
 
Well actually I believe an uncapped ferrule gives a more solid hit than a capped ferrule. Exactly opposite of what you are thinking. I think somebody else will chime in on this.

PoolFool said:
I have actually thought about doing this in the beginning. But I've never liked ferrules that had the tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. Although I wouldn't rule out the possibility of drilling it all the way through; what are the Pros and Cons of doing it this way? I would believe it would give a softer hit; am i correct in thinking so? I guess I can always make it to order depending on the customer. I personally like a more solid hit and wouldn't like any tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. I guess I could start a voting thread and get some feedback, but since this post is already done, I'll just ask for some feedback here.
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My findings are the capped ferrules hit softer...the uncapped hit a bit firmer, transmitting more feel through the tenon.
 
Varney Cues said:
Or...
you could just drill a 1/4" hole all the way through the ferrule. Then just make sure when you trim the tenon, that you get it the perfect diameter so the ferrule just barely slips on...so tight as it feels you need no glue. Then glue it up and face off again...now you have the tenon flush with the top of the ferrule. A lot of players prefer this method...they believe this gives them more feel because now the tip will be glued to the tenon as well as the ferrule. Just another option. I have never had a problem when I used this type of install.;)
Click to expand...


As Kevin mentions.......slip fit will work fine also. I did this type for a few years before I started threading. One addtional thing I always did on my slip fits was scored the inside of the ferrule approx 5 thou deep at 8tpi to give a little more gluing surface. Was just my peace of mind. One could score the tenon lightly instead or both for the same end result. More surface for the glue to hang on too.

Dave
 
PoolFool said:
I have actually thought about doing this in the beginning. But I've never liked ferrules that had the tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. Although I wouldn't rule out the possibility of drilling it all the way through; what are the Pros and Cons of doing it this way? I would believe it would give a softer hit; am i correct in thinking so? I guess I can always make it to order depending on the customer. I personally like a more solid hit and wouldn't like any tenon showing between the tip and the ferrule. I guess I could start a voting thread and get some feedback, but since this post is already done, I'll just ask for some feedback here.
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A case can be made for either one
Threaded kind ( whether capped or not ) IMHO is less prone to moving and you don't get that gap at the shoulder.
Capped ones do hit softer but the hit on all surface MIGHT be more consistent/uniform.
If the wood tenon contacts with the tip MAYBe if the wood shrinks or expands it might affect the bond/fit with the tip.
I like the capped kind, with a shoulder at the bottom and threaded. Never seem needs a replacement unless really abused with CHALK.
 
So i'm guessing a predator shaft has a capped ferrule which covers the hole. Is this correct?
 
fullsplicefiend said:
So i'm guessing a predator shaft has a capped ferrule which covers the hole. Is this correct?
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Yes.
Thin-walled press-fitted with a little foam inside.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Yes.
Thin-walled press-fitted with a little foam inside.
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The 314 is on the right.
 

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A bit off topic, can any of you guys please tell me why does the Southwest LBM ferrule have no glue hole on the top?

I also notice that they are not threaded on.

I personally like the cap, with threads, because it is more durable. and I like the fact I can use some other glues other than epoxy or CA to hold the ferrule. I prefer a softer glue.

Richard
 
If you call Laurie...I'm sure she'd explain. I find that a lot of cuemakers use the capped, non-threaded slip on type ferrule. Its just easy. No need for the glue relief hole...when slipped on slowly...the excess glue will come out of the bottom of the ferrule. With a glue relief hole in the top of the ferrule, then if you thread it on...you can do so very quickly and not worry as much about whether you have the ferrule seated perfectly against the shaft wood.
On a side note...I once bought some linen base ferrule rod from another maker. Every time I tried to tap one for 5/16-18 thread...the ferrule split while tapping. I knew my hole size was correct...I'd only done this 100's of times, so I wondered what gives? I called and asked and was told that the material was simply not strong enough to tap. Was told to just bore a small 1/4 hole and leave over 1/2 the ferrule solid for strength...then just "slip" the ferrule on instead of threading. They said that was how they did it. It worked & seemed fine...I wondered though how it would last. I decided not to use any more of the material and I now use different and better material & options.;)
 
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