You can try using 50 durometer 1/4" facings but the pockets will still most likely play dead. There's only one way to do it properly.Can you reduce the corner pockets on a GC3 from the stock 5" to 4.5" without replacing the cushions? I'm concerned that shimming that much will create corners that play weird.
Brunswick SuperSpeeds are K55. Gold Crown III's do not need the subrail bevel changed, only tables that came with the Monarch SuperSpeed cushions (GCII and older). You'll have to find a mechanic adept at doing subrail extensions and knowledgeable on proper pocket geometry for the size pocket you are wanting.that's what' I thought. ok, I I have to have new rubber installed, what do I have installed? Mill the subrail and put in K55 or go back with stock superspeed?
they don't play dead. i've played on a couple tables that were tightened using Classic Billiard's thick facings. Tables played fine imo. Not everyone is going to spend the $1000+ to do a subrail mod.You can try using 50 durometer 1/4" facings but the pockets will still most likely play dead. There's only one way to do it properly.
Can you reduce the corner pockets on a GC3 from the stock 5" to 4.5" without replacing the cushions? I'm concerned that shimming that much will create corners that play weird.
they don't play dead. i've played on a couple tables that were tightened using Classic Billiard's thick facings. Tables played fine imo. Not everyone is going to spend the $1000+ to do a subrail mod.
shimming pockets .5" is no big deal. played a ton of GC's done that way. Its when you try to go smaller that they play gaffy. Classic's thick facings are an easy way to reduce them .5"oh those options sound pretty good. I'll check with my mechanic. I'm just going to go to 4.5" corner and properly matched side.
50 should be used if they are being stacked on top of what is currently installed.My research led me to the 60 instead of the 50 hardness. Mine might be a bit too reactive, but I'd rather have that than too soft.
I agree with the cost. I waffled a lot when I was doing my table. I have the machinery and ability to redo the rails completely, but in the end I decided to leave the original rubber on and add the pocket shims. I'm pretty happy with it and I can always change it later.
I hear you. I like to have it done properly so I don't have the feeling of regret if I'm not satisfied with the alternative. Pay once, cry once.they don't play dead. i've played on a couple tables that were tightened using Classic Billiard's thick facings. Tables played fine imo. Not everyone is going to spend the $1000+ to do a subrail mod.
Yep. You stack more than two using the harder ones makes the pocket face play like wood.50 should be used if they are being stacked on top of what is currently installed.
50 should be used if they are being stacked on top of what is currently installed.
OP will need to keep his current facings in place if he wants 4.5" corners.I removed my old ones.
not if he uses Classic thick facings. if stacking then yes. i'd just remove old facings and replace with the thick ones. table will play fine.OP will need to keep his current facings in place if he wants 4.5" corners.
It all depends what size facings are on there now. If he has 5" now, he could add 50 duro 1/4" to get to 4.5".not if he uses Classic thick facings. if stacking then yes. i'd just remove old facings and replace with the thick ones. table will play fine.
Depends on who does the work on both counts. Even extended subrails can get screwed up if the mechanic doesn't understand pocket geometry and cuts them at too wide an angle.I played on shimmed Gold Crown pockets for 25 years at dozens of pool halls. They play fine in my experience. Sure, extended rails are better. But I think it's blown way out of proportion that shims stink.