Tip Question

Run the Century

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I put on a Sniper Tip last night and had a lot of problems. First it frayed when cutting with my big. I have a Hightower Delux with a tip shaper and it frayed there as well. In fact one of the layers of the tip seperated from the rest of the tip. I could literaly pull the layer away with my hand. Has anyone else had this problem with a Sniper Tip? I am not happy at all with it and it wont go out of my shop.
 
Seeing as you have a lathe, just use a razor blade.
If you go to this you will find a video showing the correct way to do it.

Jon
 
Run the Century said:
I put on a Sniper Tip last night and had a lot of problems. First it frayed when cutting with my big. I have a Hightower Delux with a tip shaper and it frayed there as well. In fact one of the layers of the tip seperated from the rest of the tip. I could literaly pull the layer away with my hand. Has anyone else had this problem with a Sniper Tip? I am not happy at all with it and it wont go out of my shop.
On the Talisman web site, there are instructions for installing and shaping their tips. They should help with any layered tip.
http://www.talismanbilliards.com/FAQ.asp
 
Run the Century said:
I put on a Sniper Tip last night and had a lot of problems. First it frayed when cutting with my big. I have a Hightower Delux with a tip shaper and it frayed there as well. In fact one of the layers of the tip seperated from the rest of the tip. I could literaly pull the layer away with my hand. Has anyone else had this problem with a Sniper Tip? I am not happy at all with it and it wont go out of my shop.

With the Hightower tip shaper, be sure the bit is sharp. When you're cutting the radius, do it slowly and a little at a time until you have a completed radius. The Sniper is a soft tip and just needs a little extra care.

I personally use a sharp utility knife for triming and sharp utility knife blade for shaping. Moving the tool post and tool toward the center of the tip and using it to rest the blade on to shape the tip.

Hope this will help.

Barry C.
 
The very top layer on Sniper tips is notorious for coming off. I go ahead and cut it off if it does not come off during shaping. I don't understand why it is like that, but it does not seem to want to stay on. I would have given the same advice given above for shaping one, so no new information needed. After seeing so many come off during shaping I just assume it is a problem and I would rather get rid of it than to see it come off while the customer plays with it.
 
Run the Century said:
I put on a Sniper Tip last night and had a lot of problems. First it frayed when cutting with my big. I have a Hightower Delux with a tip shaper and it frayed there as well. In fact one of the layers of the tip seperated from the rest of the tip. I could literaly pull the layer away with my hand. Has anyone else had this problem with a Sniper Tip? I am not happy at all with it and it wont go out of my shop.

I put the Sniper with the Elkmaster as one of the hardest tips to install. You must work with VERY, VERY sharp tools. If your tools are not sharp enough you are actually pulling the tip apart as you are trimming it. With these two tips its not hard to do.
 
Got er done

Trimming with Razor Blade did the trick. Your right - this tip is a ***** to install - I only charged the guy 22 - but I will ask 32 from now on (which is what I charge for Moori - this is every bit as time consuming).
 
Jon said:
Seeing as you have a lathe, just use a razor blade.
If you go to this you will find a video showing the correct way to do it.

Notice how I keep the cupped center against the tip as I trim it.... This will help prevent you from pulling the layers apart. It also helps with elkmaster or other very soft single layer tips.
And as others have stated, SHARP tools are the key. (A fresh razor blade can't be beat) :D
 
Sheldon said:
Notice how I keep the cupped center against the tip as I trim it.... This will help prevent you from pulling the layers apart. It also helps with elkmaster or other very soft single layer tips.
And as others have stated, SHARP tools are the key. (A fresh razor blade can't be beat) :D




I tried that last night on a shaft I just finished, for a butt I built, because I was in a hurry, about to go shoot, and wanted to try the cue out. The only thing was My cup center covered too much of the tip, so I had a small ridge left on the end. In this case that was not a problem since I only wanted half the thickness of the tip on there anyway. I usually trim the sides with My tool post except on softer tips, and finish off with the razor, but after doing this, realized the razor will trim the entire side thickness without a problem, and is alot quicker, so may change the way I do things, and save the dulling of My tool bits. Think I will use a smaller concave though.
 
Back
Top