I didnt even know there were 2 ferrules? i bought it used off here a while back.
tip swap…. gone wrong???
- Thread starter soyale
- Start date
Well in a few of the pics in this thread it is very clear there are 2 ferrules stacked on that shaft that the tip came off of.
I believe there is the possibility that the OB1 may have had the wooden ferrule in the longer version similar to the shafts in question here but in that case the ferrule would still be 1 piece, only longer. The OB2 shaft used wooden ferrules that were only about 1/2" long, which in my opinion is what is stacked on the shaft pictured in this thread.
2 completely different OB1+ shafts?
I just got an OB cue with 2 shafts. Both OB1+ The shafts are very different from one another- on the left it is darker, shorter collar, shorter and different ferrule from the other one. And of course the logo positioning They even play differently. The left one is soft as OB1+ should be and...
forums.azbilliards.com
ITT it looks the same to me, along with other google image search photos. The ob2 however appears to have the shorter ferrule you are referring to. I also have 2 ob1+ and they both look similar. I could be wrong but i think they came that way from ob.
Edit: according to a cue guy here, the wood on the ferrule has seperated which is what we are seeing
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I try not to bash products in public, but that OB ferrule did have a lot of issues, the whole design was just overly complicated. Your best off replacing it with a thermoset material like Juma or Tomahawk. If you're dead set on that wood look, a piece of stabilized maple would possibly work just fine.
As for whomever did the tip job in the first tip, he or she should stick to doing their own cues until they know how to do it right.
As for whomever did the tip job in the first tip, he or she should stick to doing their own cues until they know how to do it right.
I have an OB2 shaft that I bought back when Royce was around that has the short threaded wood ferrule. I was set up as a OB service person back then but haven't dealt with them in some time now. The OB2 shafts were very accurate LD shafts and the wood ferrules played a part in that. The only ones I ever replaced were from idiots that would try breaking and jumping with them.
Were they told when they bought them that they were fragile and not to break or jump with them? I would not necessarily make that assumption if I was buying one back when they came out. Once I learned from this site how delicate they were I wondered why not just go without any ferule
instead of thin stacked wood rings.? It was kind of a questionable product from an engineering aspect to begin with. I wouldn't judge people for assuming they would stand up to the normal job of a pool cue. Break, shoot, jump, repeat.
tomatoshooter
Well-known member
Yeah, I'm not understanding what the wood ferrule accomplishes. Is the stack of wood stronger than the maple shaft? Is seems like it would be impregnated with enough glue that there wouldn't be much weight advantage over a plastic material.
The whole idea was to make their own low deflection patent without infringing on other patents. It wasn't about strength at all, it was about weight, that's why the carbon fibre pad on top of the ferrule was an integral part of the design.
In my opionon that was also the crux of the problem, players don't pay attention to stuff like that and if you had a worn black tip, it could be hard to spot that carbon fibre plate, so many just took the whole thing off when they replaced the tip, which led to ferrule failiure pretty quick.
this is also the issue with fixing it, putting a different ferrule on there kind of defeats the purpose of the shaft, right? Yet replacing it with another OB ferrule sets me up for another failure in the future.
The cue guy here says he can repair it as is but thinks a new tip might just pop off again. i think i might try it and see how long it lasts, i have a spare ob1+ i can use after it fails while i start shopping for an alternative.
I can see your thinking, but a tomahawk capped ferrule does not add any weight and your done with the problem once and for all.
In my opinion, the original design was kinda overthinking it and I think standing out from the competition was a big factor in going with the plywood ferrule.
the look of the wooden ferrule definitely tipped me over the fence when i was initially trying to decide on what to buy. It does look really cool and stand out as you say. Of course looks are second priority to playability though
An OB2 is not just a maple shaft. It is a segmented maple shaft,,,,,, multiple pieces glued together lengthwise. Using no ferrule would be ridiculous. While the wood ferrule is certainly fragile, it's better than no ferrule.
Reinventing the wheel does not always work out.
I thought about that, and wonder what you base your theory on? I suspect the opposite to be true. Particularly if a pad were to be placed under the tip. keeping the laminated splices from being split or musromed due to lateral force. I still think there may have been less issues if no ferule was used vs. the pretty wooden donuts. Calling it "ridiculous" is not enough to convince me anyway.
An OB2 is not just a maple shaft. It is a segmented maple shaft,,,,,, multiple pieces glued together lengthwise. Using no ferrule would be ridiculous. While the wood ferrule is certainly fragile, it's better than no ferrule.
Repair a few of them in both conditions and then decide. That's what I did.
Fair enough. Ive never worked on an OB.
When OB1-2 first came out Didnt they have a carbon fiber pad. Or was that the classic . I do remember OB giving me a bunch at SBE