Tip thickness

Tennesseejoe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A very respected custom cue maker and repair man told me that when the pro's come in for a new tip they have the new tip turned down on a lathe so that it is very thin. This reduces the life of the tip--but so what---if you want to play good you will put a new tip on when needed.

Does anyone have information on this?
 
Tennesseejoe said:
A very respected custom cue maker and repair man told me that when the pro's come in for a new tip they have the new tip turned down on a lathe so that it is very thin. This reduces the life of the tip--but so what---if you want to play good you will put a new tip on when needed.

Does anyone have information on this?

New uncut tips hit like a sponge to me, no matter what brand. I cut all tips so that when shaped (nickel or dime radius) the side above the ferrule is around 1/16".

I change tips on my playing cues after 25 - 30 hours of play :)
 
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I go get new tires and smoke the shit outta them!

I replace my tires every 100 miles:)

Wait, no I don't, that's ****ing stupid!!
 
I have about half of my tip turned down when getting a new one... Yes, it shortens the life but I don't like the way they hit when it's at full length..

The tire comparison was stupid, btw....
 
For someone to say that they change tips every 25 to 30 hours of use is ludicrous. I would be replacing my tip every week if that were the case.

I thought it was a pretty good analogy.

There is, however, a point in that a tip feels like it plays better at a certain height, but I don't think it's enough to have it turned down when applied and replace every 30 hours or so.
 
belmicah said:
For someone to say that they change tips every 25 to 30 hours of use is ludicrous. I would be replacing my tip every week if that were the case.

I thought it was a pretty good analogy.

There is, however, a point in that a tip feels like it plays better at a certain height, but I don't think it's enough to have it turned down when applied and replace every 30 hours or so.
I agree, I think 30 hours is HIGHLY premature for anyone unless you are just bored with them, however the tire is not something that is even closely relevant... smoking your tires as you eluded to would be considered abusive, whereas daily play is not.... You could actually wear out out a set of tires within 30 hours, but I'd like to see someone do it with a tip.

Yes, I'm stubborn and will argue with you.
 
belmicah said:
For someone to say that they change tips every 25 to 30 hours of use is ludicrous. I would be replacing my tip every week if that were the case.

I thought it was a pretty good analogy.

There is, however, a point in that a tip feels like it plays better at a certain height, but I don't think it's enough to have it turned down when applied and replace every 30 hours or so.


It may seem silly to you and that's all good....

I know several other players that play the tours that change tips twice as much as I do. I have been doing it for years and I guess it's a habit now that I can easily afford if it makes me comfortable. (I have a cue lathe and boxes of about every tip they make)

:eek:
 
No problem, and I don't mean to offend. But, I am the type of guy to keep his shoes for a long time (until they wear out). Know what I mean?
 
belmicah said:
No problem, and I don't mean to offend. But, I am the type of guy to keep his shoes for a long time (until they wear out). Know what I mean?

I hear ya....

To each their own... but FTR, I prefer mine cut down about 40%. It does change the hit. If you invest in a good layered tip, they will still last an abnormally long time. If you still want to complain about a $10 tip (which you can get any tip out there for...) to put on your $1000 cue, a few things may be outta line in your life.... :p
 
If you replace the tips yourself, buy 12 layer tips and cut them evenly into 3 layers each maybe it wouldn't be too expensive. Only, I wouldn't tell anyone.
 
When it's time to replace a tip, it's usually compressed and nice and consistent. Most people feel a tip plays best when it's like that. When putting a new tip on, cutting it down dramatically reduces break in time so the tip will reach that packed down stage quickly. If you go from a thin compressed tip to a tall fresh tip, it's like night and day. Just a way players found to keep their cue playing consistent.
 
I like them about the thickness of cardboard above the ferrule. I always have them cut down. The only tip I can play with high, is water buffalo. Every other tip I have to cut them down.

Tony
 
Ruthless said:
It may seem silly to you and that's all good....

I know several other players that play the tours that change tips twice as much as I do. I have been doing it for years and I guess it's a habit now that I can easily afford if it makes me comfortable. (I have a cue lathe and boxes of about every tip they make)
:eek:

it's called OCD. lol
 
hm.. i just bought a new cue and i was thinking the tip was too thick... i'll have it shaved down about 40% and see if it loses that spongy feel
 
What is the best way to cut down a tip (before installing it on a cue or after?) if i don't have a lathe?
 
There's been many posts on this. Please use the search tool of the forums and search for "tip titanium trim" would have yielded this by Roger :

"Okay. To start the process, get yourself a razor blade, preferably a titanium one. If using a regular blade, press the tip into a cutting surface, so the shaft is standing upright, vertically. With great care, cut the overhang from the tip, all the way around. Pay attention to not angle the blade, but concentrate on cutting straight down.

If using a titanium blade, you can do the same thing or, if you have steady hands, simply lay the blade flat against the ferrule (you should be sitting down, holding the shaft horizontally) and swipe the blade away from the shaft to cut away the excess leather. Get a good feel to how much pressure is needed to cut through your particular tip.

Now that you've trimmed away most of the excess leather, it's time to make it perfect. The goal here is to remove leather ONLY, and not nick, scratch, or f-up in any way that pristine white ferrule.

You will need a range of sandpaper, from 300-800, a magazine, scotch tape, and some sort of stopper for the tip.

On a flat surface, lay your shaft down with the joint end supported by a magazine. Tape up your ferrule with a piece of scotch tape, right to the edge of the tip. This is added insurance. Draw a dot on the tape; this will guide you around the sanding process.

Place your tip on the piece of rough sandpaper, with only the tip resting on the edge of the sandpaper. Move the stopper (I use a cd case) until it is pressed against the top of the tip. At this point you can either carefully turn the sandpaper/stopper unit over and tape it, or just press down firmly on the stopper.

There should only be a strip of sanding surface exposed, the width of your tip height.

Now, with the dot you drew on the tape facing upwards, slowly grind the tip back and forth on the sandpaper, with gentle pressure towards the stopper. Start with 2-3 passes, then rotate the tip a fraction of an inch, and keep sanding thusly until you see the dot pointing upwards again.

**make sure the stopper has not moved, you don't want to scratch the ferrule!**

Inspect the tip, and see how much more you have to sand. Also, look for raised bumps in the sidewall and take care of those first. If the first pass took off a lot of leather, move onto the finer grade sandpaper. If not, repeat with coarser paper.

When the tip is trimmed to your satisfaction, burnish the sidewall. I use a rough piece of leather and spit. Shape the tip to the desired radius, and you should be good to go.

Here's a pic of the sandpaper trimming gadget that I just snapped off now. All of this I gleaned from this very site, I forgot who described the sandpaper jig but the titanium blade was suggested by JoeyinCali, and that was a great help.

Good luck,
Roger"
 
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