Tip wear just from chalking?

northdakotafats

northdakotafats

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I replaced the tip on my buddy's cue about a year ago and I noticed it was already down to just one layer. I asked him how often he takes his tip shaper to it and he said he never has. I did not know it was possible to chalk a tip down to a nub. Anyone else have this issue? My tip is about 2 years old and hasn't worn down one bit.
 
How many chalks did he go through in that year? haha

This is topic discussed here before, some people believe it doesn't happen, some do... I'm one that does, but for it to happen that quickly, there must be additional factors or this person just chalks all day and night constantly...

Chalklito? (some might catch this one haha)
 
northdakotafats said:
I replaced the tip on my buddy's cue about a year ago and I noticed it was already down to just one layer. I asked him how often he takes his tip shaper to it and he said he never has. I did not know it was possible to chalk a tip down to a nub. Anyone else have this issue? My tip is about 2 years old and hasn't worn down one bit.
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How does he chalk?
 
Using triangle chalk and a hard le pro tip, I would get about 6 months before the tip was ready to be replaced. That was playing 7 days a week. 🤷‍♂️ The chalk is abrasive and the wear occurs when tip contacts the ball with the abrasive between. The application strokes wear it down as well.
 
No it’s not abrasive!

Yeah right, if it can grind down ferrules, leather has no chance.

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For sure.

Some chalk is worse than others, depends how much grit it has in it.

I've picked up a cube of Lava chalk once and noticed it had literal chunks of pumice / rock in there, assumingly to scuff your tip as you chalk. In theory, that works, in practice it just grinds the shit out of your tip every single time you chalk.

I know some CHALKERS who will chalk 2-3 times before a shot, and they grind that shit in there. Their ferrules are scooped out and worn from how they chalk. I have no doubt they go through tips faster than the average joe due to the extreme chalking.

Those who paint their chalk on only when necessary are going to have much better tip life.
 
Well as from a repair perspective, keep grinding the tips and ferrules and I'll keep fixing them.

But seriously, yes I try to educate when I can.

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Weirdly this one wore on one side more than the other. He just had me cut it down rather than replace it.
I added a phenolic pad to help protect the ferrule.

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doesnt affect anything. might even work out as it irritates his opponents.

having a pro replace ferrel and tip costs less than a tank of gas.
 
maha said:
doesnt affect anything. might even work out as it irritates his opponents.

having a pro replace ferrel and tip costs less than a tank of gas.
Click to expand...

Either gas is way more expensive wherever you are or cue repair is way cheaper than in my area!
 
GideonF said:
Either gas is way more expensive wherever you are or cue repair is way cheaper than in my area!
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This made me stop and think for a second, cause it can go both ways lol.

On one hand, I charge baseline $45 for ferrule and tip replacement if it's normal run of the mill parts, price goes up if they want exotic ferrule material or expensive tips.

So say $45 baseline. I currently have a truck that costs over $120 to fill up with diesel, it's like a 35gal tank or around there. I also have a little old beater saturn with a 4 banger and 5 speed manual trans that gets around 35mpg and has a comically small tank of like 12gal advertised, but I can never cram more than 10gal in it even if I run it out of gas and fill it up from bare empty. That little clown car costs me $25 to fill up if gas is cheap, and max $45 to fill if gas is through the roof like in 2013.

This information is worthless, but it made me laugh both could be true lol.
 
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