Tips for removing a pin without marring the surface?

ideologist

ideologist

I don't never exaggerate
Silver Member
I have some soft-jaw pliers and a few other tricks for unscrewing a pin without damaging it. This doesn't matter so much on modern cues, but vintage items with original pins... it would be nice to use the original pin.

The particular pin I'm working on is a real bear and I'm not having any luck. Have heated up the pin for 30+ minutes and every method I have is just cutting threads into the soft materials I'm using to save the pin.

If you have any tips on how to get a pin out without damaging it, please let me know
 
Have you tried using a nut and locknut plus heat,this would give you
the hex nut to apply a wrench instead of any thing soft.
 
It can be done. But I always think of the pin I remove as trash, as I cant remove the pin without damaging it with any reliability. Some pins come out with ease and some are next to impossible to remove. If your doing alot of that kind of work, a induction heater is worth the about $350 they cost.
 
Thread a piece of aluminum and saw a slit in it, then thread on the pin, and squeeze it in a vise. If it's a common machine thread, you can slit a common nut, and use that squeezed in the vise. Less likely to bugger the existing threads than using a pair of jamb nuts if the stud is really tight.

As Kim notes, difficult not to do damage. With long enough threaded section, my method won't mar the threads, but it's pretty difficult not to bend the pin, even when you think you aren't.

smt
 
The heat is fine, I can feel warmth emanating through the forearm.

I just can't get the torque to pull it out.

I'll try the locknut method next, it's oversized 3/8-10 so I'll need to dick around and make nuts for this
 
ideologist said:
The heat is fine, I can feel warmth emanating through the forearm.

I just can't get the torque to pull it out.

I'll try the locknut method next, it's oversized 3/8-10 so I'll need to dick around and make nuts for this
Click to expand...

If it's not orange, it's not enough heat if they used epoxy.
If they ground a flat at the bottom and the epoxy is not burnt to a goo, the screw ain't moving .

Saving the screw wouldn't even be an option to me. I consider it toasted if I'm removing .
Btw, when I blowtorch a screw like 3/8 10, I make a disc with 3/8 10 hole to protect the face. Two of them are even better .
 
JoeyInCali said:
If it's not orange, it's not enough heat if they used epoxy.
If they ground a flat at the bottom and the epoxy is not burnt to a goo, the screw ain't moving .

Saving the screw wouldn't even be an option to me. I consider it toasted if I'm removing .
Btw, when I blowtorch a screw like 3/8 10, I make a disc with 3/8 10 hole to protect the face. Two of them are even better .
Click to expand...

Its from 1972, so I'm not sure what adhesive was used.

I'll see if I can get it hotter and work with locknuts. Joint is ivory so I'm not worried about heat bothering it
 
ideologist said:
Its from 1972, so I'm not sure what adhesive was used.

I'll see if I can get it hotter and work with locknuts. Joint is ivory so I'm not worried about heat bothering it
Click to expand...

If the joint is real Ivory you should still be concerned about over heating it. Just use caution.... I have also had some luck using a piece of an old leather belt to grip the pin with pliers.
 
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Exercise resistance bands.

Think of a very large rubber band that is around 3" wide and 1/16" thick. Cut it so it's no longer round but straight.

Wrap it tightly around the Pin and keep wrapping until its thicker than the joint.

Start twisting and the force will increase more than your wrist can create. Sorta like a dragster tire at the starting line creating more force.

It will not remove them all but you will find it helpful and it will be a nice addition to any shop.
 
I slip a large fender washer (or two) onto the pin to protect the cue and use vice grips with a piece of scrap leather to grab the pin. Hasn't failed me yet but I did have one where I had to use my torch long enough to make the pin glow red.
 
cuetrip said:
I slip a large fender washer (or two) onto the pin to protect the cue and use vice grips with a piece of scrap leather to grab the pin. Hasn't failed me yet but I did have one where I had to use my torch long enough to make the pin glow red.
Click to expand...
Acetylene , hit the tip with an acetylene to unfreeze it. That should melt whatever's holding it.
You said you crushed some threads, maybe you don't have a pin to save?
 
Did you ever get this joint pin removed? If so which method proved to be successful?
Your answer may help some of us with future projects.Thanks in advance.:thumbup:
 
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