Titlist conversion's

RKM

Registered
I, like a lot of people are a big fan of Brunswick Titlist cues. My question to the cuemakers is this. I am seeing more and more Titlists that appear to be cut, with wood added to the handle area. You can tell by the long points and the exposed lower miters.

I understand that this is to maintain the joint diameter of about .840 plus or minus. Why is this joint size needeed? Alot of older conversions (even stock Willie Hoppe's can run under .820) and they hit great, even stiff. I know that the 5/16 pin is smaller thus more shaft wall thickness , but I would think there is still enough for a larger pin.

I know the hit of a cut cue will not change alot if you cut below the full splice, and I have hit with alot of A joint cues that were great. Just why do cuemakers avoid smaller joints?

Thank you,

Jamie
 
I, like a lot of people are a big fan of Brunswick Titlist cues. My question to the cuemakers is this. I am seeing more and more Titlists that appear to be cut, with wood added to the handle area. You can tell by the long points and the exposed lower miters.

I understand that this is to maintain the joint diameter of about .840 plus or minus. Why is this joint size needeed? Alot of older conversions (even stock Willie Hoppe's can run under .820) and they hit great, even stiff. I know that the 5/16 pin is smaller thus more shaft wall thickness , but I would think there is still enough for a larger pin.

I know the hit of a cut cue will not change alot if you cut below the full splice, and I have hit with alot of A joint cues that were great. Just why do cuemakers avoid smaller joints?

Thank you,

Jamie

Like a length of 58 in. the joint diameter has become pretty much a standard.
.840 - .845 is what most cue buyers expect and/or prefer.

Dale
 
I had one built from a full length "house cue" titlist. I wanted a 13"+ front, and we spent a lot of time figuring how to get there with no cut for a handle.

I am happy with the results.
 
As long as you cut it below the splice it is still considered fullsplice. Most titlists aren't long enough to have the points in the right place and be 1 piece
 
Well, the way I see it is that each poster has offered one each of the many reasons for this.

Dale is correct in that most cues today have their joint dia. at .840/.845".

DP140 is correct in that people like to see the longer points and some also like to see the points moved up the forearm.

Dave is technically correct, if the handle were to be cut, but I prefer to leave as much of the original butt intact to use in the wrap area. That carries the uninterrupted full-splice into your grip hand. No 'A' jnt & better hit. :wink:
 
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