Titlist ID help

[xianmacx]

Hey guys, Just received this titlist. Based on what I read about the titlist decals, this seems to the first series since is has the curly B in Brunswick? Also I have never seen the shield weight stamp on a one piece, only a Hoppe pro? Thoughts on wood type? Almost has a slight purple tint in person.

Points are even and its fat enough to be converted wrapless.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[ideologist]

It's a pre-1945 Titlist. The shield stamp is older, pre-1942 usually.

Means it's a 1939-1942 blank, most likely. They had lots of variation, but it's a nice blank, enjoy it.

 

[SBC]

Its a type of palm wood. Looks pretty cool. Gotta love old wood.

 

[xianmacx]

appreciate the responses. I just hit it with some sandpaper and I retract the comment about purple a tint. Seems brown with no tint.

 

[ideologist]

appreciate the responses. I just hit it with some sandpaper and I retract the comment about purple a tint. Seems brown with no tint.

Black Palm, one of my favorites. If you decide to sell instead of convert, let me know.

 

[Chopdoc]

Very nice early one. Probably nice conversion blank.

 

[runscott]

I have had some of those palmwood one-piece Titlists - hard to work with because it's porous, but gorgeous stuff.

As far as id'ing the cue's age, the 1st-generation signature dates it to early 1940's as ideologist stated. Unfortunately we don't know much about dating the 'shield' stamp, other than it is not found on cues with the 2nd-generation signature. Some of the collectors I have discussed it with guess it's probably the earliest weight stamp on Titlist-blank cues, but that's just because they believe it makes more sense than starting with numbers, going to the shield, then going back to numbers. But it could have been a short-term experiment. It was not used on the Carom King (the titlist-blank cue between M26 1/2's and Titlists) for what that's worth.

I can get kind of anal about Titlist and Hoppe Pro history. Eventually all of these esoteric mysteries get solved.

 

[SARDiver]

I'll give you $40 cash money for it.

 

[xianmacx]

I have had some of those palmwood one-piece Titlists - hard to work with because it's porous, but gorgeous stuff.

As far as id'ing the cue's age, the 1st-generation signature dates it to early 1940's as ideologist stated. Unfortunately we don't know much about dating the 'shield' stamp, other than it is not found on cues with the 2nd-generation signature. Some of the collectors I have discussed it with guess it's probably the earliest weight stamp on Titlist-blank cues, but that's just because they believe it makes more sense than starting with numbers, going to the shield, then going back to numbers. But it could have been a short-term experiment. It was not used on the Carom King (the titlist-blank cue between M26 1/2's and Titlists) for what that's worth.

I can get kind of anal about Titlist and Hoppe Pro history. Eventually all of these esoteric mysteries get solved.

Thanks for the response, your site is great. I think it will make a nice wrapless cue.

 

[xianmacx]

I'll give you $40 cash money for it.

appreciate your generosity.

 

[gh8st]

great pick up! are you going to get it converted or keep as is?

 

[xianmacx]

Probably convert. So hard to find fat ones that don't need wood added. If converted it will go to tascarella.

 

[Ched]

appreciate your generosity.

well gee .. I'll go $50. Seriously though, congrats on the find. Best of luck moving forward. Just out of curiosity, (and I know a TON depends on condition and age), I'm guessing it's hard to get one of those types of cues for under $200 or so?

 

[xianmacx]

well gee .. I'll go $50. Seriously though, congrats on the find. Best of luck moving forward. Just out of curiosity, (and I know a TON depends on condition and age), I'm guessing it's hard to get one of those types of cues for under $200 or so?

I have paid up to 400$ for a old blank that was +.86 at the 29" mark. That's the measurement that is very difficult to find. Most titlist are in the ballpark of .80 at the 29" mark which means you need to add a handle and push the points way up toward the joint. IMO that just ruins the looks of the cue.

 

[Ched]

I have paid up to 400$ for a old blank that was +.86 at the 29" mark. That's the measurement that is very difficult to find. Most titlist are in the ballpark of .80 at the 29" mark which means you need to add a handle and push the points way up toward the joint. IMO that just ruins the looks of the cue.

Thank you very much. To be honest? If I ever did get my hands on something like that I probably wouldn't even have it converted. (unless I got a second one). To me it's a piece of history. I probably played with a few back in the 70s, and didn't even realize what I was holding. Wish I'd have had the foresight and wherewithal way back then. Hindsight eh?

 

[runscott]

Two things:

1) I would never convert a 'shield' stamp Titlist unless I was sure the cue-maker could save the shield stamp. They are not impossible to find, but you are better off using a less valuable blank and keeping or re-selling the 'shield' blank. All of my Titlist conversions have the 'Willie Hoppe' signature and most have the weight stamp - if you are paying for a conversion, you might as well have all the history left on your cue.

2) Don't cut the cue down before you send to the cuemaker - there is a chance that either it is too thin at 29" (if you don't care about full-splice, that may not matter), and even if it is thick enough, the cuemaker may decide that to make a straight butt will require the points being too uneven. I had what I thought was a great one-piece purpleheart rejected for that reason.

 

[xianmacx]

Two things:

1) I would never convert a 'shield' stamp Titlist unless I was sure the cue-maker could save the shield stamp. They are not impossible to find, but you are better off using a less valuable blank and keeping or re-selling the 'shield' blank. All of my Titlist conversions have the 'Willie Hoppe' signature and most have the weight stamp - if you are paying for a conversion, you might as well have all the history left on your cue.

2) Don't cut the cue down before you send to the cuemaker - there is a chance that either it is too thin at 29" (if you don't care about full-splice, that may not matter), and even if it is thick enough, the cuemaker may decide that to make a straight butt will require the points being too uneven. I had what I thought was a great one-piece purpleheart rejected for that reason.

Thanks for the response. Good points. I never thought about it being rejected even if it measures fat enough by my calipers...

Anyone have a fat one they want to trade? I'll have it converted and you can keep this one intact for collection.

 

[runscott]

Thanks for the response, your site is great. I think it will make a nice wrapless cue.

Thanks for the comment regarding my website - you helped me out, as I checked it and found that I forgot to re-open it after vacation. Look for new stuff within a few days - all this cue history talk is inspiring me.