duplicated post.
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tool for trimming layered tip
- Thread starter Dave38
- Start date
JimS said:
Hi Jim, Yes the "pencil sharpener" cutter that comes with the Willard is what I've always used. Then I finish in the lathe, with a little sanding...JER
Michael Webb said:Utility blades are the best I've found, just takes practice. Make sure your facing cutter is close to the tip for a steady rest, to far away and you can lose the grip of the utility blade, ouch already.
It's about time somebody called these "blades" by their true name
A true "razor" blade could definately cause some bodily harm!!
(imagine if an unsuspecting reader grabbed a double edged razor blade for this operation @#%@$%^!!)Poulos Cues said:It's about time somebody called these "blades" by their true name
A true "razor" blade could definately cause some bodily harm!!
I didn't even know double edge razor blades were still made. I have tried single edge blades but they are not stiff enough and dull way to quickly.
Dick
Spend a dollar more and try some of the Irwin utility blades, but be carefull them bastards is sharpe with an e.--Leonard
I started not to buy em cause they sponsor a danged old ford driver-Flipping Edwards
I started not to buy em cause they sponsor a danged old ford driver-Flipping Edwards
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Poulos Cues said:It's about time somebody called these "blades" by their true name
A true "razor" blade could definately cause some bodily harm!!
Yes Sir I can, but I'm sure no matter what you and I think, some are using actual razor blades. I think I'll ask Mr. Wilson to add a sticky disclaimer to the top of this forum.
Maybe this isn't the proper place and maybe nobody is asking- but here is how I typically finish a tip:
I cut the excess of the tip from LEFT to RIGHT with a carbide cutter. But no matter what I do- change speeds, wet the tip, etc. most tips ALWAYS seem to flare out at the end.
So here is what I do: (Included but not limited to-)
I have a 8" rectangular bar centered in one of my quick-change holders. I mount it in the tool post- parallel to the spindle and have enough bar exposed to the left and right of my holder to create nice shelves for resting the "utility" blade on. I then cut the tip flush to the ferrule (left to right direction) sneaking up on it- holding the blade with both of my thumbs or the tips of my fingers- on the left side of the tool post. KNOCK ON METAL- NEVER HAD ONE PULL OUT OF MY HANDS YET!!!
(One could drill 2 threaded mounting holes on the top of this bar, drill some mating holes in your utiliy blades, and advance your post forward never having to worry about your fingers- I would actually angle the top of this bar a few degrees downward to match the grind angle on the blade- but all of this would be overkill in my ANAL opinion
I then sand the edge of the tip only- with a 3/8" widebacker board with sand paper glued to it. NEVER TOUCHING THE FERRULE (some have used a nail file for this I beleive?)
I then wet the edge of the tip with my "mystery oil" (some could call it spit, leather burnisher, etc.) and burnish the edge of the tip and bring it to a nice shine.
I then mount the same holder perpendicular to the spindle- which gives me a nice "shelf" to the right of the tool post (if you are facing the spindle that is) for radius-ing the tip to the customers specs. I try to cut my tips down to a consistent straight wall height- but the tip usually tells me where I am at and when to stop.
Hope this helps...
PS. When do the radius- I NEVER lean over the spindle turning to the right. I turn to my left and work facing towards the spindle- never have to worry about clothing or skin catching the spindle this way SAFETY FIRST! :wink:
Best-
Chris
I cut the excess of the tip from LEFT to RIGHT with a carbide cutter. But no matter what I do- change speeds, wet the tip, etc. most tips ALWAYS seem to flare out at the end.
So here is what I do: (Included but not limited to-)
I have a 8" rectangular bar centered in one of my quick-change holders. I mount it in the tool post- parallel to the spindle and have enough bar exposed to the left and right of my holder to create nice shelves for resting the "utility" blade on. I then cut the tip flush to the ferrule (left to right direction) sneaking up on it- holding the blade with both of my thumbs or the tips of my fingers- on the left side of the tool post. KNOCK ON METAL- NEVER HAD ONE PULL OUT OF MY HANDS YET!!!
(One could drill 2 threaded mounting holes on the top of this bar, drill some mating holes in your utiliy blades, and advance your post forward never having to worry about your fingers- I would actually angle the top of this bar a few degrees downward to match the grind angle on the blade- but all of this would be overkill in my ANAL opinion
I then sand the edge of the tip only- with a 3/8" widebacker board with sand paper glued to it. NEVER TOUCHING THE FERRULE (some have used a nail file for this I beleive?)
I then wet the edge of the tip with my "mystery oil" (some could call it spit, leather burnisher, etc.) and burnish the edge of the tip and bring it to a nice shine.
I then mount the same holder perpendicular to the spindle- which gives me a nice "shelf" to the right of the tool post (if you are facing the spindle that is) for radius-ing the tip to the customers specs. I try to cut my tips down to a consistent straight wall height- but the tip usually tells me where I am at and when to stop.
Hope this helps...
PS. When do the radius- I NEVER lean over the spindle turning to the right. I turn to my left and work facing towards the spindle- never have to worry about clothing or skin catching the spindle this way SAFETY FIRST! :wink:
Best-
Chris
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