Torrefied Break Shaft.. Will it work?

SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
I am in the process of making my first torrefied shafts in plain and curly. I was asked last night if I could make a break shaft out of it.

Is it strong enough to withstand breaking?

Thanks,
Scott
 
JoeyInCali said:
Keep it at 13.25mm to 14mm.
Phenolic or brass insert, not bare wood threads.
Click to expand...
I already use a phenolic insert so I'm good there. I figured at least a 13mm.

Is a conical taper required, or can it be a little less?

Of course he likes the curly. Would it be significantly weaker?

Honestly, he is not interested it for any breaking properties, he just really likes the look of the wood to go with his Joss breaker. I told him it might be a bad idea, but that I would look into it.

Thanks for your help.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I already use a phenolic insert so I'm good there. I figured at least a 13mm.

Is a conical taper required, or can it be a little less?

Of course he likes the curly. Would it be significantly weaker?

Honestly, he is not interested it for any breaking properties, he just really likes the look of the wood to go with his Joss breaker. I told him it might be a bad idea, but that I would look into it.

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
My 2 cents....I used a keilwood break shaft for a few months and it held up fine, however I wouldn't recommend using curly for it. As Joey said, keep it over 13mm and use a stiff taper.

If the person is breaking over 30mph, then I would recommend something else. But for your average player, there shouldn't be any issues.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I already use a phenolic insert so I'm good there. I figured at least a 13mm.

Is a conical taper required, or can it be a little less?

Of course he likes the curly. Would it be significantly weaker?

Honestly, he is not interested it for any breaking properties, he just really likes the look of the wood to go with his Joss breaker. I told him it might be a bad idea, but that I would look into it.

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
I'd say at least 1.5mm taper to.the middle.
I think it's too tough to break with a conical taper. Too hard to follow through..
Also, I'd stick to peanut butter kiel and not chocolate.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I'd say at least 1.5mm taper to.the middle.
I think it's too tough to break with a conical taper. Too hard to follow through..
Also, I'd stick to peanut butter kiel and not chocolate.
Click to expand...

This is what I’m working with.

IMG_2429.jpeg


IMG_2445.jpeg
 
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I've seen many curly and BEM torrified/KW shafts snap. I wouldn't use them for a playing shaft, let alone a break shaft.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. I talked with him and it looks like it will be hard maple. He doesn't want to risk it.
 
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I was playing with one I bored out to reduce deflection. It was not curly or anything but the grain wasn't the straightest either..... I flexed the shaft while waiting for my turn, and the shaft exploded violently. It sent a splinter into my opponent's hand, and a piece hit another guy's ear about 20 feet away that was sitting at the bar. :LOL:
Took the first guy a couple of days to dig the splinter out, he said it hurt pretty bad. :oops:
I've had good luck with radially laminated torrified shafts, they hold up pretty well even when made LD.
 
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