For shot #1, I'm not sure what you mean by a "lil twist of the cue."
However, as you indicated, this shot can be made with high, outside english...using moderate speed and a smooth stroke. The speed is crucial; if you hit the cue ball too hard in trying to get it down the table, you'll miss the object ball.
Nice array of shots you have here. Your double-kiss is something I'll typically employ as a safety. With the 9-ball sitting near the pocket like that, it becomes a very good option to play.
Saw Corey make this in the first 9-ball ring game in D.C.C., wouldn't suggets you try it. He put right hand masse on the cue ball and came back to the end rail. Cue ball came straight down the table. Awesome
Thats a tough shot, I'll give it a try and see what I can come up with, just looking at the shot, If your conservitive a bank on the 9 is likely, only really aggressive players try to get shape for a corner pocket shot. I have something in mind but I'll have to wait until later when I have some time to hit some balls.
Thats a tough shot, I'll give it a try and see what I can come up with, just looking at the shot, If your conservitive a bank on the 9 is likely, only really aggressive players try to get shape for a corner pocket shot. I have something in mind but I'll have to wait until later when I have some time to hit some balls.
The question with this is which risk do you feel more comfortable with? Trying to get ideal shape or accepting the bank on the 9-ball. Assuming this is a thread about unconventional approaches to getting ideal shape, one could do a few things:
1. Go rail first on the 8-ball
2. Jack-up and make the 8-ball with left-masse. Hit it firm and the spin shouldn't take effect until AFTER contact. Be careful not to jump the 8-ball off the table.
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1. Go rail first on the 8-ball
2. Jack-up and make the 8-ball with left-masse. Hit it firm and the spin shouldn't take effect until AFTER contact. Be careful not to jump the 8-ball off the table.
If the 8 isn't perfectly straight in, you could also hop the cue ball off the 8 up onto the nose of the cushion. If it is straight in, my choice to get straight on the nine is to play rail first.
After taking the time to try this here is how I got out, I had to over cut the 8 into the flat side of the rail entering the pocket, allowing me enough angle to get on the 9, the cue ball being close to the rail didnt help either, with enough applied side spin this shot isnt to difficult, I also banked the 8 cross corner with nearly the same result position wise, (I did this by accident the first try.) But with super tight pockets this may result in a bobble, with GC pocket size this shot wont pose much of a problem, but with tripple shimed pockets it might prove tough.
I have tried every shot, and the 3th one i cant even come close. if i move the balls a bit, then i could achieve it, with WARP speed. but the way the balls are, the cb either scratches (as u need to play it hard, the cb only draws after a short time, and by this time the cb is in the jaws. ive tried 20 times and didnt come close once, and i scratched like 10 times... ps the cloth was placed 1 week ago and grips like hell! still can't make it work.. any advice? can u move the ob a half of a diamond closer?
all the rest i did at first try... exept the last one. with the points? if u shoot it the way u draw it, the cb gets point-induced-english that once it hits the 2second rail, makes the cb go up instead of down. are you sure this is even possible? you need a medium powered stroke to get to the last ball, but the english the point induced can't be countered :s ive tried different englishes and always i got the inverse english making the ball go UP instead of DOWN to the last ball...
I have tried every shot, and the 3th one i cant even come close. if i move the balls a bit, then i could achieve it, with WARP speed. but the way the balls are, the cb either scratches (as u need to play it hard, the cb only draws after a short time, and by this time the cb is in the jaws. ive tried 20 times and didnt come close once, and i scratched like 10 times... ps the cloth was placed 1 week ago and grips like hell! still can't make it work.. any advice? can u move the ob a half of a diamond closer?
all the rest i did at first try... exept the last one. with the points? if u shoot it the way u draw it, the cb gets point-induced-english that once it hits the 2second rail, makes the cb go up instead of down. are you sure this is even possible? you need a medium powered stroke to get to the last ball, but the english the point induced can't be countered :s ive tried different englishes and always i got the inverse english making the ball go UP instead of DOWN to the last ball...
Try it this way, move the 3 enough where you have some room to play with, I did diagram the shot to tight, but thats the shot I was faced with, whitch I had to shoot a slight curve, my bad, this will help you understand how the shot works, if your still having trouble, remember that point is stationary, aim to hit differnt locations on that point and youd be surprised at how much a minor adjustment can make..
Here is a shot that comes up quite often and im sure have cost many players an easy win, it might take you a few tries to get it right, but Im sure you'll find the is the easiest way to play this shot when you played a bad angle on the 7 to get on the 8. Much better than going around the world. IMHO..
this is an example of how to get out of a tough situation, the first shot just hit the OB full with top spin, the cue doubles the rail and pockets the 9..
the secong with cue Ball A is the same shot except your using low with side, again hit the ball full, the double kiss sends the cue to the opisite rail, the spin sends the cue ball towards the pocket, and hopefully you will pocket the object ball.
Nice shots to know.. also in both examples the OB's are froze to the rail
I have not played too much straight pool, (high 42) but I like the behind the rack position for the corner ball in the side or a safety by hitting the center ball. Breaks up the rack and leave the cue frozen or very close.
I made this shot on a 9 ft table, was playing 9 ball for fun. Opponent says "I wonder what shape you will play now?". I quickly figured the angles and made the shot as diagrammed. Had I been playing 8 ball, would have been a cool out.
There might be some slight variation to the english and angle on the 7.
This is a surprisingly consistent shot if you're racking for yourself on a familiar table, but it can be tricky otherwise. One reason, of course, is that the rack might be different - higher or lower on the table, not quite straight, balls not frozen, etc. But even if you get a perfect rack the bank angle is sensitive because it needs to shorten up a bit (the carom angle is a little wider than in your diagram), and that brings several other variables into play:
The bank shortens up more or less automatically because of the reverse sidespin the OB picks up as it caroms off the next ball up in the rack. But how much spin it picks up and how much effect the spin has on the rail depends not only on how new or clean the balls and cloth are, but also on what angle you hit the ball from, how hard and with what spin.
My setup above shows the angle that makes the shot without sidespin on my table (newish cloth and balls) with a perfect rack. It's pretty high percentage on my table when I rack, but because of the shot's sensitivity to so many variables I'd never try it in a serious game, especially on another table. It's more likely to get me laid than paid (but that's reason enough to like it).