true sneaky pete

A friend of mine and I were talking the other night and the subject of sneaky pete cues came up. I said I thought a true sneaky pete was a good house cue with a joint. He said no, that the butt was a house cue but the shaft was high quality Maple custom tapered and make to look like a house cue. No rings, butt caps or other fancy dodads just as plain as it can be. Humm ...
I think he is right.

I can understand that years ago people would think of you as a hustler if you had your own two piece cue. However, I think all that has changed now and two piece cues are accepted as just normal equipment. The days of the sneaky pete being a useful cloaking device are over.
 
Guys, how about a detailed process on how the prongs are cut - in relation to length of prongs/v-grooves on the front?

Thanks,

hadj
 
shorty's

RSB-Refugee said:
Mine took a lot longer to cut. I did not have a 90 degree cutter. I tilted the saw blade (a regular type) to 45 degrees toward the fence. I then had an "L" shaped block to set the front end in. The block raised the front the same distace off the bed as it pused it from the fence. The way I did it, there were eight cuts required. It was a scary operation, and I like the set up you described, a lot better. :)



Blud,
Are you referring to short splices? I don't understand how you could cut then fill one at a time on a full splice. I also think the table saw is the best way to cut the point grooves. I think if you did a temporary glueing (one small dot of glue) after the four points have been cut the throw-away points (three of them) could be easily removed, leaving a perfect prong. Maybe double sided tape would work for holding the temporary points in place. Also the temporary points would have to be over sized and trimmed flush to maintain squareness.



Or IOW forever :)



My brother has a Predator sneaky pete the wrapped vesion, two points are mitered and the other two are stacked. I was surprised to see two methods used in one cue.

Tracy
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I meant short ones.
Long ones, I did with my mill and band saw, with a .025 kurf on the saw blade.
blud
 
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blud said:
I meant short ones.
Click to expand...

I kinda thought, that was what you were talking about. :)

blud said:
Long ones, I did with my mill and band saw, with a .025 kurf on the saw blade.
blud
Click to expand...

I know what kerf means, but what is the distance from the teeth to the back of the blade called?

Tracy
 
hadjcues said:
Guys, how about a detailed process on how the prongs are cut - in relation to length of prongs/v-grooves on the front?

Thanks,

hadj
Click to expand...

Hadj,
I'd love to help you out but I really need to know what kind of equipment you have and some idea of your skill level. Call me at 352-551-7171 or send me a pm or email and let me know how you do short splices now and maybe what kind of band saw or other tools that you have and we can go from there.
 
blade

RSB-Refugee said:
I kinda thought, that was what you were talking about. :)



I know what kerf means, but what is the distance from the teeth to the back of the blade called?

Tracy
Click to expand...
It's called BLADE WIDTH. 1/2", 3/4", 1" and so on.

blud
 
cal

hadjcues said:
Guys, how about a detailed process on how the prongs are cut - in relation to length of prongs/v-grooves on the front?

Thanks,

hadj
Click to expand...

Hey Hadjcues,

give me a call and I'll walk you through it. Not hard to do, just takes practice, and a little tooling set up.

Been doing it for years. I might even have an old jig around here, I no longer use, that will help you out. [ just got to locate it in my pile of stuff ].

I do need to visit with you, so I will know what you got to work with. We can go from there.
830-232-5991

blud
 
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Murray Tucker said:
Hadj,
I'd love to help you out but I really need to know what kind of equipment you have and some idea of your skill level. Call me at 352-551-7171 or send me a pm or email and let me know how you do short splices now and maybe what kind of band saw or other tools that you have and we can go from there.
Click to expand...
Murray,
I hope to meet you at a show sometime so I will have a different face to go with your name. I always think, "he sure must have a happy wife back at the club house." Maybe put your own picture up for a while. Do you build more than cues with that large mill?
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
 
cueman said:
Murray,
I hope to meet you at a show sometime so I will have a different face to go with your name. I always think, "he sure must have a happy wife back at the club house." Maybe put your own picture up for a while. Do you build more than cues with that large mill?
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
Click to expand...
Yes,

Murray is a tree that will not bend.
A very stiff negotiator.

Thanks,

Jon
 
Here is a jig I made to mount on a radial arm saw with a molding head cutter (from Sears). I made the side rails at about 3 degrees but after cutting the handle part I discovered the angle was a little off so I started using shims to change the angle. My next jig will have an adjustment for changing the angle of the point groove easily and precisely and maybe delrin jaws for the machinist's vice.
I cut the handle with a bandsaw and taper jig but I'm not satisfied with the quality of the cut - it's a little rough, not nice and smooth like the grooves are. Is there a special blade I should be using? (I have a 14" 4 speed bandsaw from Harbor Freight)
I cut both pieces from perfectly square stock and indexing seems to take care of itself. When cutting the grooves on my lathe/router I was always afraid of making contact with the dead center. With the jig I can cut them to sharp points without worry.
 
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Real good info guys. I hope this isn't too dumb of a question: How do you cut a full spliced 6 pointer? Do you just adjust the angle on your jig?

Thanks again
Andy
 
full spliced cues?

what's the big thing about full-spliced cues? Is there really a big advantage to this method? any info would be nice. thanks!undefined :cool: :cool:
 
duke@neo.rr.com said:
what's the big thing about full-spliced cues? Is there really a big advantage to this method? any info would be nice. thanks!undefined :cool: :cool:
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I would not say there is a "big advantage" but they do have their advantages and disadvantages. They seem to give a very natural feeling hit provided the right woods are spliced together. They don't develop internal noises over time like standard spliced cues can.
Disadvantages are you are limited on types of woods that can be used. You can't put rings in the middle or it is no longer a full splice. It is much harder to hold the points even than with short splice. I build both full splice and short splice cues and really like both, but one of my favorites is the "no splice." But this means one solid piece of wood for the butt and makes you very limited with what types of woods play well and stays with playing weight range. Purple heart, some rosewoods, a small amount of bocote, yellow heart, bubinga, pau ferra and a few others work well. A lot of the other woods are either too heavy or two light or don't transfer a very good hit and feel on the cue ball.
To be able to achieve a good hit and give the customer most any look he wants, the short splice is the way to go. I have played with my short splice cue for 14 years so far and don't intend on building a replacement anytime soon. Any of the three methods mentioned produce great cues that will hold up if done correctly.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
I had a chance to see Mikes "Not so sneaky" in person a couple of weeks ago and that thing is damn sweet.

Dave

Mike,
You really had me going with the sneaky pete bit :-)
 
I said I have issues. And Tracy soon I'll do a fancy one. I have some more Titleist left. I just believe if your going to have something different and it's affordable, You shouldn't have to see it's double on the next table.
 
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