Tulipwood - decisions, decisions

[Baron]

Hey Folks,

I have a cuemaker friend who is going to make me a tulipwood Merry Widow with an ebony handle. Elforyn joint and buttcap, rings at all positions. He has some nice black ebony, and I’m providing the tulipwood. My problem is, I have a couple different pieces of tulip and I’m having trouble deciding which to use - a good problem to have, as I’m well aware. Hoping to get some input from you all here. The longer piece has some cool figure and I like the color okay, and the shorter pieces have a much darker orange and red color but fairly basic, straight figure. As of now I’m leaning towards the shorter pieces with the really red color. Wondering what you all think.

As a caveat: I do understand it’s much harder to judge in photos rather than having them in hand, but it is what it is. I’d say the color of both is much nicer in person than I was able to show in the photos.

The longer piece, with some water on it to show figure:






The shorter pieces, which are waxed. Photos taken on a foggy day so light isn’t great:

 

[Baron]

Some pics in better light, with a recently finished cue made for me by Rick Howard for comparison - also tulipwood and ebony. No water darkening the longer piece this time, though.

 

[cuesdefuentes]

the shorter pieces have straighter grain also. That should help keep the wood from warping a little better than the long piece.

 

[JoeyInCali]

The one with the straightest grain. Second from.top.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Th

the shorter pieces have straighter grain also. That should help keep the wood from warping a little better than the long piece.

They'll need coring no matter what

 

[Bishop]

Th

They'll need coring no matter what

Do you core everything? I’ve not worked with Tulipwood yet but I was under the impression that it’s dense and similar to rosewood. I’ve never cored rosewoods or ebony… woods like that.

 

[JoeyInCali]

Do you core everything? I’ve not worked with Tulipwood yet but I was under the impression that it’s dense and similar to rosewood. I’ve never cored rosewoods or ebony… woods like that.

I don't have to core bocote or purpleheart or cocobolo. Tulipwood is a traitor. It will move on even after years of not moving. Core it

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I’ve not worked with Tulipwood yet but I was under the impression that it’s dense and similar to rosewood.

Brazilian Tulip is a rosewood. Generally referred to a Dalbergia (given 2 different Latin names, no idea why)
Very few woods I trust that do not need cored. Unless your woods are older than dirt, I would stress relieve them with a core.
IMO it's just sound insurance for the longevity of staying straight.

 

[Bishop]

I don't have to core bocote or purpleheart or cocobolo. Tulipwood is a traitor. It will move on even after years of not moving. Core it

Brazilian Tulip is a rosewood. Generally referred to a Dalbergia (given 2 different Latin names, no idea why)
Very few woods I trust that do not need cored. Unless your woods are older than dirt, I would stress relieve them with a core.
IMO it's just sound insurance for the longevity of staying straight.

Thanks guys

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Brazilian Tulip is a rosewood. Generally referred to a Dalbergia (given 2 different Latin names, no idea why)
Very few woods I trust that do not need cored. Unless your woods are older than dirt, I would stress relieve them with a core.
IMO it's just sound insurance for the longevity of staying straight.

With the added benefit of additional control of the weight of the cue...

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

With the added benefit of additional control of the weight of the cue...

And yes, weight control!