bronson0607
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Which would be better to use to finish a cue tung or teak oil?
tung or teak oil?
- Thread starter bronson0607
- Start date
Everything is a compromise. Google each and decide for yourself.
I use Tru-Oil and it works well on cues but sometimes takes a while to dry.
Tung oil, but...
Get the REAL stuff - pure tung oil - there are lots of finishing products that have
some tung oil as an ingredient.
AND - it takes a long time to do a tung oil finish right.
Plus, any oil finish must be 'renewed' periodically.
Dale
Oil finishes
I have been using "oil" finishes for about 7 years now and have it down to a
4-step process (not including sanding). The results compare to other finishes
(see the photo of a cue I recently completed) and is easily repaired. I allow a total of 4 to 5 days, depending on the weather, before final polishing.
This method is non-intrusive and easily done with no special equipment.
Steps: sand to 400 grit
1. Apply liberal coat(s) of WATCO Danish Oil (natural) while cue is spinning until
you have a nice smooth surface.
2. Apply several coats of thin CA glue wiped on with lathe off. Wipe long wise
using blue 3M shop towel only. Final result should be smooth with just a
light buffing with 0000 steel wool. This seals in the WATCO.
3. Apply as many coats of Birchwood-Casey gun stock oil as needed for your degree of satisfaction. Use blue 3M shop towel and wipe longwise with lathe off. I use about 6 coats and buff lightly with the 0000 steel wool after several coats. Let dry for several days.
4. Rub out with Stewart-McDonalds Swirl Remover (or other super fine compound) until desire shine is achieved. Wax as needed with Carnuba.
I have been using "oil" finishes for about 7 years now and have it down to a
4-step process (not including sanding). The results compare to other finishes
(see the photo of a cue I recently completed) and is easily repaired. I allow a total of 4 to 5 days, depending on the weather, before final polishing.
This method is non-intrusive and easily done with no special equipment.
Steps: sand to 400 grit
1. Apply liberal coat(s) of WATCO Danish Oil (natural) while cue is spinning until
you have a nice smooth surface.
2. Apply several coats of thin CA glue wiped on with lathe off. Wipe long wise
using blue 3M shop towel only. Final result should be smooth with just a
light buffing with 0000 steel wool. This seals in the WATCO.
3. Apply as many coats of Birchwood-Casey gun stock oil as needed for your degree of satisfaction. Use blue 3M shop towel and wipe longwise with lathe off. I use about 6 coats and buff lightly with the 0000 steel wool after several coats. Let dry for several days.
4. Rub out with Stewart-McDonalds Swirl Remover (or other super fine compound) until desire shine is achieved. Wax as needed with Carnuba.
Attachments
I've used plenty of Watco, but never quite like this. Do you let it sit for days first or is the CA applied in short order? I played with corn oil and CA way back, but never did go back to it. Too many toys and finishes to play with at the time.
Oil finish
I run the lathe and let the cloth I applied the Watco with to heat up the finish
with friction and then apply the CA. I usually do it the same day unless the Watco is sticky.
I run the lathe and let the cloth I applied the Watco with to heat up the finish
with friction and then apply the CA. I usually do it the same day unless the Watco is sticky.
Your finish looks great. It certainly is shiny, but...
Is it "hard"? Does it pass the 'fingernail' test?
Dale
.