Some wood educate themselves and other wood remain ignorant to their core. Be it maple or purpleheart.Well board does fall within my Master of categories. Growing up adjacent a saw mill to making fine custom furniture.
Cole's senses were so fine tuned that, uh well on a meeting 6 months after I bought my cue from his back up butt and my select from his 5 back up shafts. Cole sais, "I wouldn't be able to shoot with that cue now." So take it for what you want. Every cue has a personality. To be ignorant of; the variables that effect the hit ???? Bill Stroud made Stradivarious cues. His knowledge combined with craftsmanship made for some beautiful instruments.
I did have a friend that got an experimental McDermott with ivory joint and ferrule, FOR $250!!!!! Yikes I hit some balls with it and it definitely talked to me. It was to lust for. Lucky Son of a gun.Bill Stroud cues started at 1500, Walmart cues start at 20. So if you can't tell the difference......
Type of joint, material and pin type
- Thread starter fish2
- Start date
Technically you can wire a cue with all kinds of tactile feedback sensors but maybe it's the complete experience of pool that completes the so called confirmation bias loop. Can't be done blind as far as I can tell.
Wood is resonant, and I think it really comes down to the balance and taper or a combination of both. I like to play with a cue that has
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Don't forget the density and grain patern. Working with maple, a split is better than sawn stock. A tight grain should be stiffer and heavier than a piece milled to the same specs with wider grain.
A true craftsman would start with a log then cut to length. Then split then cure to the proper moisture. Turn to an oversize then cure again before final turning. Simple
A Master knows the best part of the log for the desired shaft character.
It sounds like you are a fan of stainless steel cue joints and good for you if you are.
Everyone should play with what they either like, or believe, plays the best for them.
There is no right or wrong when it comes to one’s opinion, just minority vs. majority.
Unfortunately, sometimes opinions are based on unfamiliarity or for biased reasons.
Regardless, telling someone else they are wrong only leads to incessant, aimless rhetoric
that all too often degrades into the acrimonious exchange of posts mocking one another.
I happen to have a totally different opinion than you and I have my reasons but anything I
might otherwise post to rebut yours has little significance since we both believe we’re right.
p.s. BTW, I’ve also posted on this Forum for years the best feel in a cue joint is wood to wood.
Roger working from his shop in the Seattle 211 made some awesome cues from salvaged broken cues. The screw on the wood to wood was course like McDermott. He used a red colored fiberous material as a reinforcing of both sides of the joint. It had a small red band that identified it from a Walla Bushca.
Mine cost $65 dollars and was a real money maker. It was Stealth.
it definitely had a McDermott feel to the hit. My cue expert proclaimed the McDermott hit as the universal easiest to adjust to. My step into Meucie was a step into a crisper hit with the plastic in joint and ferrule being harder than that used in the McDamnit. They could Crack if abused. My final transit to stainless joint and ivory ferrule was a step crisper still. I Learned to love it.
My first cue was a Huebler. It had fine threads and a nylon insert on the female side. It had a good feel to the hit. Hmmmm, I can't remember why or how I got away from it. Headscratch.
I think you are the first person I've ever heard suggest that a stainless joint made for a "crisper" hit. I've always likened it to filling the handlebars of a '72 Sportster with lead shot. Adding mass to change frequency and lower amplitude.Roger working from his shop in the Seattle 211 made some awesome cues from salvaged broken cues. The screw on the wood to wood was course like McDermott. He used a red colored fiberous material as a reinforcing of both sides of the joint. It had a small red band that identified it from a Walla Bushca.
Mine cost $65 dollars and was a real money maker. It was Stealth.
My step into Meucie was a step into a crisper hit with the plastic in joint and ferrule being harder than that used in the McDamnit. They could Crack if abused. My final transit to stainless joint and ivory ferrule was a step crisper still. I Learned to love it.
Have Huebler sneaky and an Action Elite with a good 1/2 inch of nylon or some soft plastic instead of the last half inch of the shaft. Both are the best to screw. lol The Elite hits good too. It's my go to shooter.My first cue was a Huebler. It had fine threads and a nylon insert on the female side. It had a good feel to the hit. Hmmmm, I can't remember why or how I got away from it. Headscratch.