Used jump cue? Tips for non-dart method jumping?

K

kleinm3351f

New member
Hi pool people!

Two things:

1. I have the Viking crush break/jump cue and I finally begun to achieve a trustworthy consistent ability using the dart method. Accuracy not consistent by a long shot yet. Problem is when I put the but or the middle on to try the regular jump, it simply seems impossible to get the snap, and I think some part of it comes from the extra weight.

2. Doing exactly what I always roll my eyes at, I think Fedor Gort’s triple-60 jump cue would turn me into him. Knowing that’s not true I’m coming here to either find a used or another brand that comes with the lightness I’m seeking. Also, even used, I can’t justify the spend, so something under $300 would be ideal.

Please don’t use your brand loyalty to answer but rather your breaking down of what helps in a cue when trying for a jump.

Thanks ahead of time!
 
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If it jumps a close ball with a dart, then you can jump without a dart. Your symptoms seem to indicate technique issues and not equipment issues. I also suspect a perception issue between contact point when using normal vs dart method.

IMO, I little coaching for $100 would be much better money than a new cue.

-td
 
td873 said:
If it jumps a close ball with a dart, then you can jump without a dart. Your symptoms seem to indicate technique issues and not equipment issues. I also suspect a perception issue between contact point when using normal vs dart method.

IMO, I little coaching for $100 would be much better money than a new cue.

-td
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That’s honestly a great point and view. Since I’m successful with the dart would you say anything changes using overhand?
 
kleinm3351f said:
That’s honestly a great point and view. Since I’m successful with the dart would you say anything changes using overhand?
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Nothing significant should change in terms of angle and contact on the cue ball.

My recommendation: get out your phone and record from the side. Pay attention to the contact/angle on the dart and then check the difference when you shoot side arm. It takes some practice to get it right. But you can use technology to speed up the learning curve. When I instruct, it takes less than 15 minutes to get the foundation right but takes a week or so of 15-20 minute practice sessions by the player to have a useful jump stroke. Then another week for it to be reliable. A couple more weeks to be proficient. But totally doable with a little diligence. Today's technology is really pretty good for jumping.

-td
 
kleinm3351f said:
Hi pool people!

Two things:

1. I have the Viking crush break/jump cue and I finally begun to achieve a trustworthy consistent ability using the dart method. Accuracy not consistent by a long shot yet. Problem is when I put the but or the middle on to try the regular jump, it simply seems impossible to get the snap, and I think some part of it comes from the extra weight.

2. Doing exactly what I always roll my eyes at, I think Fedor Gort’s triple-60 jump cue would turn me into him. Knowing that’s not true I’m coming here to either find a used or another brand that comes with the lightness I’m seeking. Also, even used, I can’t justify the spend, so something under $300 would be ideal.

Please don’t use your brand loyalty to answer but rather your breaking down of what helps in a cue when trying for a jump.

Thanks ahead of time!
Click to expand...
It really isn't the cue, I can choke up on my break cue and jump most balls. The best piece of advice I can give is to make sure you're driving into the ball, don't punch at it, hit through it.

Funny story, I was playing in a tourney at one of the pool halls here in the valley several years back and this kid says I hate this jump cue do you want it? It was a Predator Air II. It was the same one I had in my bag. I said are you sure why don't you just sell it? he said yeah, I can't in good conscience sell it to someone knowing how bad it is. I said ok if you're sure. I must've asked him 4 or 5 times if he was sure. You should've seen the look on his face 20 minutes later when I drilled a 5 foot jump shot with it. I did again ask him if he was sure and he said no, he was sure.

I ended up giving mine to my best friend and I still play with that one to this day.
 
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kleinm3351f said:
Hi pool people!

Two things:

1. I have the Viking crush break/jump cue and I finally begun to achieve a trustworthy consistent ability using the dart method. Accuracy not consistent by a long shot yet. Problem is when I put the but or the middle on to try the regular jump, it simply seems impossible to get the snap, and I think some part of it comes from the extra weight.

2. Doing exactly what I always roll my eyes at, I think Fedor Gort’s triple-60 jump cue would turn me into him. Knowing that’s not true I’m coming here to either find a used or another brand that comes with the lightness I’m seeking. Also, even used, I can’t justify the spend, so something under $300 would be ideal.

Please don’t use your brand loyalty to answer but rather your breaking down of what helps in a cue when trying for a jump.

Thanks ahead of time!
Click to expand...

What do you mean you struggle when you put the middle on? Are you darting with just the shaft? This would be an illegal jump in most rule sets.

If the JB has a good tip, you should be able to jump fairly simple jumps with it in jump configuration. It will not be as good as the modern 3 piece carbon fibre dedicated jump cues, but it will work okay. The harder the jump shot (usually in the sense of the CB being closer to the OB), the more the jump cue matters. I like both the Propel and the Air Rush, but I’m sure the cheaper CF ones are pretty good.

I suggested that you watch the Dr Dave video, which you should, but ultimately a good lesson would help a lot (just seeing it done in person and learning the hit would get you jumping quickly).
 
GideonF said:
What do you mean you struggle when you put the middle on? Are you darting with just the shaft? This would be an illegal jump in most rule sets.
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I think he means using the shaft with either the middle part of the JB or removing the middle section and using the "back end" connected to the shaft.

-td
 
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