Using Center Ball Only - 12.5mm Pro Taper or 12mm Conical Taper?

C

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My next experiment to try to get myself out of this funk my game is in (nearly 68 and trying to turn back the clock) is to use center axis only on the cue ball, except when I absolutely have to.

I can’t decide if it would be best to use a 12mm conical shaft or a 12.5mm pro taper shaft, both low deflection but the 12mm obviously has less deflection.

I feel the problem with the 12mm may be that if I’m off just a hair on center ball, the unwanted spin would be more likely to cause a miss, whereas the deflection difference between the two would be very minimal. Thoughts and reasons welcome?
 
I think you should use the one you’re comfortable with, you’ll adjust to the minuscule difference in deflection. I do center ball drills for a couple of weeks every year. Another thing I do for one full week every year is shooting all shots with CB frozen to rail. I play 9 ball ghost for a couple of hours each day but before each shot I freeze the CB to the rail staying as close to the shot line as possible
 
ChrisinNC said:
I feel the problem with the 12mm may be that if I’m off just a hair on center ball, the unwanted spin would be more likely to cause a miss
Click to expand...
A smaller tip isn't more prone to unwanted spin than a larger one. A tip with a smaller radius curvature (less flat) can be slightly less forgiving.

pj
chgo
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
A smaller tip isn't more prone to unwanted spin than a larger one. A tip with a smaller radius curvature (less flat) can be slightly less forgiving.

pj
chgo
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It seems like we’ve had this discussion on here before. To me, a smaller tip means it is harder to hit the exact dead center axis of the cue ball when you are trying to, which means you are imparting some level of spin. I guess I could be wrong?
 
ChrisinNC said:
It seems like we’ve had this discussion on here before.
Click to expand...
More than once.

ChrisinNC said:
To me, a smaller tip means it is harder to hit the exact dead center axis of the cue ball when you are trying to, which means you are imparting some level of spin. I guess I could be wrong?
Click to expand...
You may be in the majority with that belief - even I can see how it seems so. But it's really about tip curvature, not size.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I think the opposite is true. Imagine trying to align to dead center with a regular tip vs. a pointed one - an extreme example for illustration.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
It's a reference thing. With say a two inch tip, you have an easy to see 1/8 inch perimeter. With a 9 mil (ooh) you can zero in on where the tip is hitting but maybe not so much relative to the ball.
 
The problem is in your head not the tip.
At 68 years old with your playing experience you should be able to strike accurately wherever
you want with a needlepoint or a baseball bat.
Take some time off and come back to play when your passion and desire are pulling you to the table.
Don't sweat it or force it, you're a player, relax and you'll be fine.
You may not miss a ball for a month upon return.

It could be a few days or a week or two.
If your break lasts a few weeks leading to months you have lost your passion,desire, and want to. You will just be going through the motions which you are probably doing right now and reaching for straws.
If you watch any form of billiards make sure it's high caliber. Don't watch a poor stroke or bangers.
Best of luck moving forward.
 
ChrisinNC said:
My next experiment to try to get myself out of this funk my game is in (nearly 68 and trying to turn back the clock) is to use center axis only on the cue ball, except when I absolutely have to.

I can’t decide if it would be best to use a 12mm conical shaft or a 12.5mm pro taper shaft, both low deflection but the 12mm obviously has less deflection.

I feel the problem with the 12mm may be that if I’m off just a hair on center ball, the unwanted spin would be more likely to cause a miss, whereas the deflection difference between the two would be very minimal. Thoughts and reasons welcome?
Click to expand...
Chris you're a pretty tall fella and it's been awhile since we shook hands so pardon me here but don't you have some huge mitts on the end of those tree branches? It stands to reason you'd have slightly less control over a shaft with a smaller profile in the bridging area simply due to how large your hands are. Probably not as impactful on open bridges but anyway something to consider.
 
watch this cat
Zhang Anda
the professional snooker player
he is extremely good
and never spins the ball
it is always center ball
(well, almost always)
 
InsertCleverNameHere said:
Chris you're a pretty tall fella and it's been awhile since we shook hands so pardon me here but don't you have some huge mitts on the end of those tree branches? It stands to reason you'd have slightly less control over a shaft with a smaller profile in the bridging area simply due to how large your hands are. Probably not as impactful on open bridges but anyway something to consider.
Click to expand...
The Mezz WX900 is just a very slight conical taper, nothing drastic like a snooker shaft. I used my 12.5mm Mezz ExPro shaft last night and it seemed to work well.
 
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