UV wood finish

muskyed

muskyed

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not sure if anyone is interested, but just came across this when reading a post on my woodturning forum. It's a UV finish that can be brushed, rolled or sprayed and is supposed to be very reasonably priced. What got my attention when looking through their various offerings was one of the finishes stated for pool cues.
www.cleanarmor.com

Wood (List) | Clean Armor

Enhance and protect wood surfaces with CleanArmor’s premium wood coatings. Designed for durability, beauty, and long-lasting performance.
www.cleanarmor.com www.cleanarmor.com
 
Interesting. Gonna have to dig a bit to order any as it’s only sold through a distributor. Best brush on I’ve used has been Crystalac Brite Tone. If this is reasonable I may take a look at it.

1720062997148.jpeg
 
Clear Armor is harder to use than Brite Tone but is a much better finish. I am now using Clean Armor but not certain if I will go back to Kraft Kote or not.
 
It's NOT priced well, at $172 a QUART...and be prepared to have to reinvent how to sand/buff it to the shine you are used to, and it may not get there..... I looked at it, and from feedback from others, have decided to pass....
 
Thanks, I'll have to relook at the article as I know they were talking about something expensive like that, but then somebody talked about something that was like $20 a gallon and this link was in his post. I'll relook at it. This is where I read it.
It was in a topic called, Liquid glass Finish

Woodturning Discussion Forum

Woodturning Discussions
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org
 
$176 a quart. Plus shipping.

Question for those that are using it. What makes it worth paying that much more over something like Solarez?
Do you still epoxy base coat or just use the clear armor?
 
I've been using Clean Armor for a couple of months. It may seem expensive, but it only takes an ounce or two to finish an entire cue. In my experience, it brushes on thinner and smoother than SolarEZ and flows out better, hence there is less sanding. I have been using SolarEZ for over 5 years and have now switched over to Clean Armor.
Of course, YMMV
 
cueman said:
Clear Armor is harder to use than Brite Tone but is a much better finish. I am now using Clean Armor but not certain if I will go back to Kraft Kote or not.
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What makes it harder to use? I’ve not tried Kraft Kote either.
 
Bishop said:
What makes it harder to use? I’ve not tried Kraft Kote either.
Click to expand...
I am getting a few more bubbles in it than I like. They sand out but it makes more sanding than I want to have to do between coats.
I did some forearms and got it on with less of those. But on a full length cue it is giving me a little harder time. Kraft Kote clock finish is hard to master, but I have used it for years so am used to it's quirks. I might get used to this one. At first I could not buff it. But got that figured out and then the full length butts are not as easy.
 
cueman said:
I am getting a few more bubbles in it than I like. They sand out but it makes more sanding than I want to have to do between coats.
I did some forearms and got it on with less of those. But on a full length cue it is giving me a little harder time. Kraft Kote clock finish is hard to master, but I have used it for years so am used to it's quirks. I might get used to this one. At first I could not buff it. But got that figured out and then the full length butts are not as easy.
Click to expand...
I could probably use some work on my buffing technique. I started with Woodturners finish. Doing what I can to avoid spraying clear coats.

Then moved to Brite Tone and found it sanded to a polish really easy with minimal problems.

I could buff it out nicely but not quite where I wanted it.

I’m just a hobbyist but I found Brite Tone to be a huge step up from General Finishes.

But to me this lacks the sharpness and depth I really want to see.

1720128179704.jpeg
 
The product is marketed to use alone onto the bare wood as a sealer/finish. I have tried it and it didn't stand up my adhesion test. To the point I will be expecting to start hearing about it peeling and flaking in the not too distant future.

Also it sands extremely easily and to my knowledge sand paper has not been re invented. Therefore how hard can it be if it sands so easily?

I came, I saw and I left.
 
Coos Cues said:
The product is marketed to use alone onto the bare wood as a sealer/finish. I have tried it and it didn't stand up my adhesion test. To the point I will be expecting to start hearing about it peeling and flaking in the not too distant future.

Also it sands extremely easily and to my knowledge sand paper has not been re invented. Therefore how hard can it be if it sands so easily?

I came, I saw and I left.
Click to expand...

Hardness and ease of sanding are not directly correlated. Often harder materials will not clog sandpaper and will allow the grit to fry, keeping sharp material in contact with the surface being sanded.
 
Coos Cues said:
The product is marketed to use alone onto the bare wood as a sealer/finish. I have tried it and it didn't stand up my adhesion test. To the point I will be expecting to start hearing about it peeling and flaking in the not too distant future.

Also it sands extremely easily and to my knowledge sand paper has not been re invented. Therefore how hard can it be if it sands so easily?

I came, I saw and I left.
Click to expand...
I did not buy it, I contacted the seller and talked for about 40 minutes. When I found out it was $$$ a quart, I asked if there were sample sizes I could buy to try it first, he said nope. In short, I feel he tried to over sell the product. He didn't say anything about it being very hard to buff to a normal glossy shine like solarez and others do. I almost pulled the trigger, but so far from the reviews from others on some group pages I belong, I am happy that I kept my $$$ in my pocket.
 
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