Veneer Fixtures

P

Pete Tonkin

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The fixture is for use on a milling machine.The stops will adjust to hold veneer stacks .3125 to .750 wide and 0 to .200 thick.The opening in the top is for milling point stock square.The other fixture is to hold and clamp the miters together while being glued.I will post some pictures of them in use tomorrow.
End View.JPG
 
Pete Tonkin said:
The fixture is for use on a milling machine.The stops will adjust to hold veneer stacks .3125 to .750 wide and 0 to .200 thick.The opening in the top is for milling point stock square.The other fixture is to hold and clamp the miters together while being glued.I will post some pictures of them in use tomorrow.
View attachment 68741
Click to expand...


Nice job ....you build it for yourself? or to send to me?
How is it held down? in a vise? or bolt right to the T slot?
Waiting patiently for the action shots........
 
It's looks Like it uses T-slots. Notice the holes in the top groove, where the square stock would be held. It's looks like You would tighten the t-nuts through those, but I could be mistaken.

Nice looking fixture Pete:)


Greg
 
In your last pic, I assume that the cutter is squaring off the point blank? At the angle of the pic, it's hard to tell.
Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
In your last pic, I assume that the cutter is squaring off the point blank? At the angle of the pic, it's hard to tell.
Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...
Looks to me he's fly-cutting the point stock dead square.
Much more accurate than drum sanding imo.
 
Actually, you don't want to run a 'fly-cutter' at high speed. They aren't balanced very well. A 3/4" end-mill will do the job nicely at any speed you like. Whichever method you go with, the quill MUST be set true to the table or you'll never get your stock square.
 
KJ Cues said:
Actually, you don't want to run a 'fly-cutter' at high speed. They aren't balanced very well. A 3/4" end-mill will do the job nicely at any speed you like. Whichever method you go with, the quill MUST be set true to the table or you'll never get your stock square.
Click to expand...

30 years of Machine work tell me that.
A .750 end mill at 3000 RPM has a surface speed of 7,065 IPM
A 3 in. flycutter at 1800 RPM has a surface speed of 16,956 IPM
You will get a much better finish with the flycutter and a square point stock that needs no sanding before use.
 
Pete Tonkin said:
30 years of Machine work tell me that.
A .750 end mill at 3000 RPM has a surface speed of 7,065 IPM
A 3 in. flycutter at 1800 RPM has a surface speed of 16,956 IPM
You will get a much better finish with the flycutter and a square point stock that needs no sanding before use.
Click to expand...
Must be correct as we flycut in the machining class to have a nice flat surface on alum plates. :)
Nice jigs Pete.
 
Fly Cutter

Poulos Cues said:
They make a fly cutter with 1/4- 5/16 shank?
Click to expand...

You can build a flycutter by drilling a 1/4 in. hole in the center of an AL6 tool bit at a 5 to 10 deg. angle then silver braze a piece of 1/4 in. drill rod in the hole.
 
Pete Tonkin said:
You can build a flycutter by drilling a 1/4 in. hole in the center of an AL6 tool bit at a 5 to 10 deg. angle then silver braze a piece of 1/4 in. drill rod in the hole.
Click to expand...
Jeesh, now I feel dumber.:grin-square:
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
http://routerbitworld.com/Drawer-Lock-Bits-s/309.htm

These work great for fly cutting. Only draw back is 1.25 in dia. so if you are doing something wider just have to do two passes.

I use the 1/2" shank because I found it in 2" dia. which covers all my needs.
Click to expand...

Excellent!
I will be needing this sort when I get my Kress. I will be using it to surface plane my MDF board on my CNC table- get it parallel and perpendicular to the spindle. :smile:

-Thanks Dave and Pete!
Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top