Veneers - Where seams line up

Kelly_Guy said:
I have seen pics of an Art Cantando cue with overlapped veneers done that well. I would have to see them next to each other to see which were better. I do think I prefer them mitered, but when they are done this well, having to look close to tell has already set the work apart.

One of the best examples of veneer work I have personally seen in terms of tightness was some double stacked maple color veneers sandwhiched by other colors. You had to look at a certain area of a certain point to tell they were stacked and not just double thick.

Kelly
Click to expand...

Stacked veneers can be made "cleaner", meaning less of a glue line than mitered veneers by the fact that the glue between each veneer can be tinted to more closely resemble the particular veneer being glued. When multiple veneers are glued at one time, a common glue color must be utilized which usually stands out between the brighter colored veneers.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Stacked veneers can be made "cleaner", meaning less of a glue line than mitered veneers by the fact that the glue between each veneer can be tinted to more closely resemble the particular veneer being glued. When multiple veneers are glued at one time, a common glue color must be utilized which usually stands out between the brighter colored veneers.

Dick
Click to expand...

That makes sense. The cue in question in my 2nd paragraph was a cue with mitered veneers. The "stacked" I was referring to was only regarding two maple veneers next to each other.

Kelly
 
cutter said:
That didn't take long. Usually the light colors are the give away and the darker colors are hardest to see. Why I put them up is to show that either way it can be done to be almost invisible. This one held in your hand is impossible to see the seams. I took the photo with a 5mb camera at a distance of about 10 inches with only sanding sealer on the cue. I've seen mitered veneers and overlapped that you swore where recuts, but the veneer colors told you they weren't. Personnally I don't think it matters how they are done as long as they are done properly.
Click to expand...

very good work indeed
this is as good an example as I've seen of why stacked
are more than equal to mitered

IMHO anyone who would be less than satisfied with those veneers
is way too anal to be permitted on the planet.

Dale
 
Thanks Bob, I must admit to stealing some(ok maybe more than some) ideas from you website. I have the same Techno table and love it. Only problem with mine is that the automatic cuemaker is broken.
Steve
 
right down the center

pdcue said:
I don't think so.

Is it one of the Japan<Adam> examples.
Can you post some pix?

Dale<still learning after all these years>
Click to expand...

Yup they go right down the center. its a 1963 cue.
 
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jayman said:
Yup they go right down the center. its a 1963 cue.
Click to expand...

First, nice vintage cue.
Do you know the maker? Palmer, Viking, Adam?.....

Second:
sorry Jay, they are not mitered, the're stacked just like all the other
Hoppe/Titlist examples. Going down the center doesn't mean they are mitered,
stacked also go down the center. But the tips of one veneer 'fade' into its
matching color, rather than both points ending at the same place.

Believe it or not, I'm not trying to be Mr-knows-it-all here.
I still have my Hoppe that I bought in 1964. The veneers are
very similar, no great suprise there.

Do you have any other Hoppe/Titlist based cues to compare it to?

The first pic, may be a bit mis-leading, due to the glue line from
the separation between the veneeers.

Look closely at the final image, you can see clearly the top white veneer ends before the point of the bottom one

IMHO if you look at the cue with a simple magnifying glass<shudders>
it will be easily visible.

Dale
 
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cutter said:
Only problem with mine is that the automatic cuemaker is broken.
Steve
Click to expand...

Ha ha! Despite what the anti-CNC Luddites claim, I don't think there is a single "automatic cuemaking option" in operating condition anywhere. And to think I paid big bucks for that feature :-)
 
I'm sure you'r right.

pdcue said:
First, nice vintage cue.
Do you know the maker? Palmer, Viking, Adam?.....

Second:
sorry Jay, they are not mitered, the're stacked just like all the other
Hoppe/Titlist examples. Going down the center doesn't mean they are mitered,
stacked also go down the center. But the tips of one veneer 'fade' into its
matching color, rather than both points ending at the same place.

Believe it or not, I'm not trying to be Mr-knows-it-all here.
I still have my Hoppe that I bought in 1964. The veneers are
very similar, no great suprise there.

Do you have any other Hoppe/Titlist based cues to compare it to?

The first pic, may be a bit mis-leading, due to the glue line from
the separation between the veneeers.

Look closely at the final image, you can see clearly the top white veneer ends before the point of the bottom one

IMHO if you look at the cue with a simple magnifying glass<shudders>
it will be easily visible.

Dale
Click to expand...

I'm sure you are right!, But from my cue as an example, I would never be convinced. I will sure be more observent from now on!

By the way the cue in my pictures is a 1963 viking.
 
pdcue said:
First, nice vintage cue.
Do you know the maker? Palmer, Viking, Adam?.....

Second:
sorry Jay, they are not mitered, the're stacked just like all the other
Hoppe/Titlist examples. Going down the center doesn't mean they are mitered,
stacked also go down the center. But the tips of one veneer 'fade' into its
matching color, rather than both points ending at the same place.

Believe it or not, I'm not trying to be Mr-knows-it-all here.
I still have my Hoppe that I bought in 1964. The veneers are
very similar, no great suprise there.

Do you have any other Hoppe/Titlist based cues to compare it to?

The first pic, may be a bit mis-leading, due to the glue line from
the separation between the veneeers.

Look closely at the final image, you can see clearly the top white veneer ends before the point of the bottom one

IMHO if you look at the cue with a simple magnifying glass<shudders>
it will be easily visible.

Dale
Click to expand...



^&%$!$#%^%&@#!^&*&(*&%$#@$%^&*(#@^& ?
 
pdcue said:
So, What's your point?

I left my decoder ring in my tin foil hat

Dale
Click to expand...

^&%$!$#%^%&@#!^&*&(*&%$#@$%^&*(#@^& ?

Your decoder ring will only work when the message is in red.

I'm by no means an expert on Hoppe/titlist cues but have never seen one that has not been mitered.
Although......I have seen some that one side of the miter has not been pushed down into the bottom or has slipped up after the glue has been applied and dry making for one side of the veneer points to be longer than the other side giving the illusion of something other than a miter.
 
Titlists

Now, I'm not an expert by any means, and this may actually end up more like a question anyway....

The discussion between mitered and overlapped/butt jointed veneers has been very informative for me. I understand how this will play out in short spliced points, but I'm not sure how it plays out in full splice cues. I obviously haven't been able to work with full splice cues, so I don't know what it would be like to try and putt veneers together for one....I'm guessing the concepts are similar, but would it be different when working with a FULL SPLICE compared to a SHORT SPLICE?
 
johnf_34 said:
Now, I'm not an expert by any means, and this may actually end up more like a question anyway....

The discussion between mitered and overlapped/butt jointed veneers has been very informative for me. I understand how this will play out in short spliced points, but I'm not sure how it plays out in full splice cues. I obviously haven't been able to work with full splice cues, so I don't know what it would be like to try and putt veneers together for one....I'm guessing the concepts are similar, but would it be different when working with a FULL SPLICE compared to a SHORT SPLICE?
Click to expand...

Probably a way to do it but it would be difficult to over lap vens on a full splice compared to miter.
If I were going to build a FS I would miter and glue the vens at a 90 before installing and attaching the two splices together.
When I was doing short splice fores W/mitered vens this is how I was doing them to be sure I was getting the fit I liked.
 
Hmm

BarenbruggeCues said:
Probably a way to do it but it would be difficult to over lap vens on a full splice compared to miter.
If I were going to build a FS I would miter and glue the vens at a 90 before installing and attaching the two splices together.
When I was doing short splice fores W/mitered vens this is how I was doing them to be sure I was getting the fit I liked.
Click to expand...


That's how I would do it in general too. Like you said, the overlapping may be pretty hard to do on a full splice....which leads me back to the titlist discussion earlier in this thread about the titlist having mitered or overlapped veneers.
 
szamboti apears to use the same method

robertno1pool said:
Most veneered points I have seen have the seams dead staight down the middle of the point.

The current Ernie Martinez cues with veneers look like the seams are off to one side of the point. Is this common, easier to do, structurally better, etc.? Pictures are posted in the "Wanted/For Sale" section as the "3rd batch" of cues.

Thought I would ask the experts.
Click to expand...

I noticed these points on a post from "balance" that the venners on his/hers szamboti appear to be done the same way.



http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=70772
 
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The natural veneers in my titlist look butted, while the rest definitely look mitered. I dunno.

100_0147.jpg


100_0146.jpg
 
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