Verhoeven rail bolt torque specs.
- Thread starter redcordes
- Start date
Because no table manufacturers have ever recommended a rail bolt torque. The torque is specifically determined by the rail bolt anchor system, not the torque specification of the bolt used! Using T-nuts for anchors like Olhausen installs in their rails won't hold up to a higher torque specification compared to a GC3 or newer, or a Diamond for example. All billiards tables that use the threaded inserts, or the floating nut plate need to be set at 15ftlbs torque.
Ya, years ago I was setting up torque control power tools at a tractor assembly plant and one of the parts was a rubber clamp sandwiched between 2 metal plates, the bolts were something like an M8. The torque spec was for a M8 Grade 10.9 from some bolt chart. Not only could I not reach their torque spec. with my tools, when I got there using a digital torque wrench, the rubber was completely flattened/extruded. Ugly looking assembly.
Suggested to the ME to revisit the spec and get back to me.
I have run across the same over the years. The engineers are not always right. Sometimes they are sitting at a desk and not really familiar with the application.
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That's what most mechanics don't understand when they're using impact drills to install the rail bolts. I only use a 12V Makita drill to install the rail bolts, then finish tightening with a torque wrench.
I believe all major cordless brands of Drill Motors come with a clutch. I'm happy with using a drill clutch, if the mechanic comes back with a torque wrench to finish the bolt, rather than relying on the crude clutch on a drill motor. The clutch on a $200 drill motor will not clutch out better than within +-50% or worse your desired torque.A drill with a clutch is your friend. I've run across some real fine work by people who refuse to use anything but an impact driver.
Mechanics that use Impacts and then come back with a torque wrench, need to keep in mind, when they go to the wrench, they must see the bolt move before the wrench clicks off. If there's no movement before the wrench clicks?, that bolt is in an under torqued condition!
There is NO argument against that statement!
That bolt needs to be slightly backed off, then moved forward with a nice and smooth pull, till the wrench clicks. Done.
Do not double click just to make sure. If your pull is smooth and steady (bolt doesn't stop moving) till the click, you are good. Move on.
Those that say they can tell using an impact by the sound/socket movement and what not, cause I have decades of experience, are kidding themselves. Those folks don't understand torque at any acceptable level.
OH BOY!
Hear It Comes.. Since I'm not a Table Mechanic
Just a torque nerd, thank you very much.