Viking G57 Cue
- Thread starter DrCue'sProtege
- Start date
DCP, just hit with a Viking with your desired joint and you'll know how all Vikings hit with that joint (the joint definitely affects the hit). If you like the hit and the looks, buy it. An opinion based on a cue's value rather than its playability wouldn't be an opinion in which I'd place much stock. The proof is in how well it works for you, not how much it costs or where it's made. A $10k cue isn't much use if it doesn't match your playing style/ability as well as a $40 sneaky pete.
I think someone (maybe it was John Barton?) has done some "blind taste tests" with cues - I think a lot of the elitist cue speculators would do well do take a look at the results.
-djb
I think someone (maybe it was John Barton?) has done some "blind taste tests" with cues - I think a lot of the elitist cue speculators would do well do take a look at the results.
-djb
[/B][/B]supergreenman said:
Ok, well you go pay $500 for a cue that might bring $250 after a week of play... and I guess for you that is a good deal... I know better, and was trying to help the original poster... He may not gamble or use it for making money, so your only valid point might not matter at all.....
And not all customs are great, but if you do a little research before you buy one then you should be ok....
You can't come out good buying a Viking at Retail!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you want a production cue, buy a schon... they are the standard of quality, and online prices allow 20% off to anyone,,
You can get a 4 point Schon for $500 at almost any online retailer....[/QUOTE]
I think the majority of people buy cues to play with, not to resell them later.
You can't go wrong with the playability of a Viking, yes for the money he want's to spend he could get a decent custom cue. Does the custom cue come with a lifetime warrenty? not always.
I think the model DCP picked is very classy and you might have a hard time finding a custom cue for that price that looks so good.
DCP go for it, you won't regret it.[/QUOTE]
supergreenman, I think you quoted someone else, I didnt say that..
I also recomended the Viking..
SPINDOKTOR
BPG24 said:
Ok, well you go pay $500 for a cue that might bring $250 after a week of play... and I guess for you that is a good deal... I know better, and was trying to help the original poster... He may not gamble or use it for making money, so your only valid point might not matter at all.....
And not all customs are great, but if you do a little research before you buy one then you should be ok....
You can't come out good buying a Viking at Retail!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you want a production cue, buy a schon... they are the standard of quality, and online prices allow 20% off to anyone,,
You can get a 4 point Schon for $500 at almost any online retailer....[/QUOTE]
Schon is a good cue, and Yes the investment I make in a cue is for tournaments, and money games, if you play for recreational purposes and never enter any tourney's I could understand.. Id feel the same way, I never have thought to buy cues for resale value.. I look at the cue as a tool, and to be honest I wouldnt want to carry a 2500$ custom with me to play with, then the cue becomes a liability.. So I play with mostly production cues where I know they will handle the abuse of serious play day after day without any reservation, you can look at this, some tables are for home use some for commercial, same with cues IMHO, the cues holding the trenches are prodominately Production.
Viking is a good cue, use it day in day out, It will last, I think thats what your really paying for, its a tool, if your worried about resale value buy an exotic custom that may hold its value, and dont ding it up, or get it dirty, just stick it in the see through display case and buy you a production for the dirty work.
SPINDOKTOR
I recently bought a Viking F-97 as a gift for my cousin. I added joint protectors, a guiseppe case, pocket chalker, tip tapper. The local hall gave me a package deal of $200. "Cheap", considering my latest shooting cue is a Josey.
Hate to say this, but I think the Viking plays VERY well...with a little tip change, easily the equal of my Jacoby in playability.
I wouldn't hesitate to suggest a viking as a good playing cue.
Hate to say this, but I think the Viking plays VERY well...with a little tip change, easily the equal of my Jacoby in playability.
I wouldn't hesitate to suggest a viking as a good playing cue.
Few of my random thoughts :
Viking , very soliid cue for the money.
Who ever buys anything full retail ?
Buy a brand new mid level custom @ full retail and sell it 'used' 2 weeks later . . .let me know how much you 'make'.
I invest in investable cues , I play with playing cues. . . there is a difference.
It's very chilly out this morning.
I'm hungry.
'Nuff random thoughts.
Viking , very soliid cue for the money.
Who ever buys anything full retail ?
Buy a brand new mid level custom @ full retail and sell it 'used' 2 weeks later . . .let me know how much you 'make'.
I invest in investable cues , I play with playing cues. . . there is a difference.
It's very chilly out this morning.
I'm hungry.
'Nuff random thoughts.
[/COLOR]SPINDOKTOR said:
I think the majority of people buy cues to play with, not to resell them later.
You can't go wrong with the playability of a Viking, yes for the money he want's to spend he could get a decent custom cue. Does the custom cue come with a lifetime warrenty? not always.
I think the model DCP picked is very classy and you might have a hard time finding a custom cue for that price that looks so good.
DCP go for it, you won't regret it.[/QUOTE]
supergreenman, I think you quoted someone else, I didnt say that..
I also recomended the Viking..
SPINDOKTOR[/QUOTE]
Oops sorry dude, first day with the new keyboard
BPG24 said:
Or try a Schmelke full-splice cue (aka sneaky pete). I have bought two of them; I let the first one go to a friend who played lights out with it. He paid me what I paid: $107.
The second one another friend played with it for five minutes and asked to buy it, but it's not for sale.
They're both "production" cues; although both were customized a bit to suit my tastes.
Can't sell a production cue easily? I say it depends on the cue.
Flex
I think that is a nice looking cue, It's a sweet design...I think I would buy it.
Being a simple person, I'm happy with my old skool four pointer.
Nice find.
Being a simple person, I'm happy with my old skool four pointer.
Nice find.
if you're going production get a mezz bro.
DCP doesn't seem like the kind of guy that's looking for action and from his posts he's not likely to take down a big score anytime soon anyway. if you want the cue buy it but buy it knowing that if you ever choose to sell it you'll have just as hard a time moving it at anywhere close to what you got into it at. just tlike that thunderbolt shaft you're selling. i dobt you'll get 50 bones for it but i bet it cost you more than that. while a frey or kersonbok shaft might pull a hundo or 2.
i've bought cue that i know i'll lose money on, as long as you're ok with that go ahead abd get it bro. a friend of mine has a viking that plays lights the fuc* out. has a picture of a dog or some crap on it. selling it online he'll probably get like 150 but in person someone whos tried it might offer him 3-400. the choice is yours man i do suggest going to a cue store and trying the vikings they have out before you pull the trigger though. they're made the same but with wood being organic there's no 2 that're completely the same. tey them out and get the one you know you like
let us know what you do
Sam
DCP doesn't seem like the kind of guy that's looking for action and from his posts he's not likely to take down a big score anytime soon anyway. if you want the cue buy it but buy it knowing that if you ever choose to sell it you'll have just as hard a time moving it at anywhere close to what you got into it at. just tlike that thunderbolt shaft you're selling. i dobt you'll get 50 bones for it but i bet it cost you more than that. while a frey or kersonbok shaft might pull a hundo or 2.
i've bought cue that i know i'll lose money on, as long as you're ok with that go ahead abd get it bro. a friend of mine has a viking that plays lights the fuc* out. has a picture of a dog or some crap on it. selling it online he'll probably get like 150 but in person someone whos tried it might offer him 3-400. the choice is yours man i do suggest going to a cue store and trying the vikings they have out before you pull the trigger though. they're made the same but with wood being organic there's no 2 that're completely the same. tey them out and get the one you know you like
let us know what you do
Sam
Drew said:
one of the best hitting cues i ever played with was a Viking someone loaned it to me-he wouldnt sell it. I ignore price when i'm looking for a cue that hits like I like, typically the better hitting cues cost more but that is just a rough guidline and certanily not a fact. I have some very expensive cues that are duds I have other very affordable cues that play awesome, for example I have a Scorpion Cue with a wood shaft(not a fiberglass shaft it came with) that is costs maybe $250 with the wood shaft. It makes a funny sound but it plays as good as anything.
On one of my trips to CO, I bought a cheap $60.00 cue at Antique Billiards because I didn't want the hassle of packing one. I used it for 3 or 4 days, got up a couple of hundred and gave it to the last guy I played with.
My point is, a cue is a cue is a cue.
A cheap cue can work just as well as a highly collectible cue. I have both collectibles and playing cues.........I love them all.
Russ.....
My point is, a cue is a cue is a cue.
A cheap cue can work just as well as a highly collectible cue. I have both collectibles and playing cues.........I love them all.
Russ.....
DoomCue said:
I couldn't disagree more with your statement.
I have played with many Vikings, In fact, just about all of them and there is a difference between cues that have the same joint.
I have a very nice (custom) F01 that is loaded up with Ivory and Turquise (see pic of similiar cue here: http://img.askabilliards.com/viking/cues/vikingf01f.jpg ). The cue has the Wood-2-Wood Viking joint ( Joint D: http://vikingcue.com/pages/cues/joints.html).
I also have a Viking G81 ( http://vikingcue.com/pages/cues/g81.html ) and a G69 ( http://vikingcue.com/pages/cues/g69.html ) both with the wood-2-wood joint D and my shafts are interchangable with the F01 and my SP G22 ( http://vikingcue.com/pages/cues/g22.html ).
Of all the cues that I have I like the hit of my G22 the most. It is the only cue I use when Gambling or playing in tournaments. The "Hit" is definately different than the other cues. The butt of my G22 is also .003 of an inch smaller in diamater than my F01 and that makes a huge difference to me while playing. All the weights are exactly the same in all the cues and does not matter how many times I switch out shafts my G22 is by far my favorite hitting cue.
So basically I am saying that all Vikings with the same joint do not hit the same as each other.
Mj
Last edited:
Puck
ctapa.com
With production cues it's important to distinguish Viking, Joss and other American cue makers from those produced overseas. Even though the Vikings are production, they are made in the US and that does mean something. I typically purchase Vikings because I think they have a lot of consistency in production quality and playability. I like the taper on the shafts and the feel of the A joint they offer. I also like the shaft pivot point for the Viking cues since they are around 12" which is where I typically bridge. In my experience, if you give them a call their service staff is very helpful and will entertain options to customize their designs.DrCue'sProtege said:
Some of the cons are that the Vikings are production designs...so you won't see the fine detail that are evident in most custom cuemakers. If you check the Billiard Warehouse link below...look closely at the detail of the points and veneers of the custom cuemakers. Bear in mind that the custom cues will look much better when you're holding them up close. Then compare it to the Viking designs and you can see how most of the Viking points and inlays are rounded off...for production purposes.
Also, be wary of exactly what materials are being used. In your post above you mentioned the ebony and ivory combo...but there isn't any ivory or silver in the G57. What it does have are ivory-colored and silver-colored phenolic/composite inlays. Make sure you read the description at the Viking website carefully regarding what materials the butt is comprised of.
However to my earlier point, I'd encourage you to contact their staff and ask them about various options. I'll be purchasing the G65 cue later this year...but I'm going to replace the ivory-colored inlays with holly inlays. When I called it in it was a reasonable $75 to make the replacement. There are a lot of options which are priced on the website such as leather or wood wraps...but don't be afraid to ask for something that isn't listed.
I would encourage you to learn more about the various materials, woods, and inlays that are used in custom and production designs. Then you'll have a better idea of what your purchasing. If you decide to purchase a Viking from a retailer I would highly recommend the Billiards Warehouse or Seybert's...I've experienced great service from both. Good luck!
http://www.billiardswarehouse.com/
http://www.seyberts.com/
question about engraving...........
for example, on the Seyberts website it says you can get your name engraved. just wondering where the name usually goes on a cue? and do any of you players have your name engraved on your cue?
DCP
for example, on the Seyberts website it says you can get your name engraved. just wondering where the name usually goes on a cue? and do any of you players have your name engraved on your cue?
DCP
Nope........not on any of them....
poolhustler said:
i guess it would lower the value of a cue, if it had someone else's named engraved on it. unless it was Allison, Earl, Williebetmore, Efren, Ewa, etc, etc.
but if you planned on keeping it a long, long time i think it would be something cool to have. where on the cue are names usually engraved?
DCP