Warped maple??

Mensabum

Mensabum

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Hey guys,
I have several old house cues I wanted converted and was told if you cut old maple like that, it will surely warp.
Seemed to go against common sense, if they hadn't warped in 50 years, why would cutting them in half do it??
Is this a bunch of bunk, or is there something to this??
Thanks in advance.
 
Fixed up a batch of cues for a bar we go to by our summer place last fall. When I took them, the owner told me to keep a few for my troubles and I chuckled as I told him I didn't need any. Anyway, put new tips on all, replaced some ferrules and cleaned them up a bit. There were 2 out of ten or so that were really straight and while I had done a lot of shaft and tip work, I had never done any joint work and wanted to try it, so as I had some parts to do it, I decided to give it a try with the parts I had. I know it's pretty basic as I didn't put a whole lot of thought in it, and I only had a couple days to finish it before we went back there. Anyway, turned out pretty good, shoots great, and is as straight or straighter than before. The owner was thrilled he had a bunch of cues again and when I showed him the one I made into a two piece he really liked it and told me to keep it, Anyway, I didn't notice any warping.
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You're exposing wood and grain patterns that have never been exposed. Sometimes it will move, and sometimes it wont.
It's not a sure thing, never was. The butts rarely move, but shafts are more likely to. Cut them fairly aggressively, let them sit for a while, and if they don't move, they're going to be good. If they warp, they'll likely continue to do so as you turn it down farther.
 
I have to add, I really like this latest batch of Triangle tips I am using for these bar cues. On a recommendation I got from a forum member on here, I got a box of the 15mm ones. Not sure if I got lucky or what but the 15mm ones were much better than the 14mm ones I used previously. Every one used so far has been good and they make great tips for these bar cues. In fact, this batch would be a great tip for any cue.
They are a little more expensive as while the box says 50, there is only 40 tips in a box, but still cheaper as you don't have any bad ones, or at least I didn't.
 
muskyed said:
Fixed up a batch of cues for a bar we go to by our summer place last fall. When I took them, the owner told me to keep a few for my troubles and I chuckled as I told him I didn't need any. Anyway, put new tips on all, replaced some ferrules and cleaned them up a bit. There were 2 out of ten or so that were really straight and while I had done a lot of shaft and tip work, I had never done any joint work and wanted to try it, so as I had some parts to do it, I decided to give it a try with the parts I had. I know it's pretty basic as I didn't put a whole lot of thought in it, and I only had a couple days to finish it before we went back there. Anyway, turned out pretty good, shoots great, and is as straight or straighter than before. The owner was thrilled he had a bunch of cues again and when I showed him the one I made into a two piece he really liked it and told me to keep it, Anyway, I didn't notice any warping.
View attachment 874680View attachment 874682
Click to expand...
Oh man!! That's what I'm looking for, even moreso.
3 of these cues are so old that the wood in the shaft has an appearance very similar to kielwood. Very dark patina and hard as a rock!!
I'm thinking as far as sneaky's go, these would be the shit!!
Thanks for giving me hope!!
 
Sheldon said:
You're exposing wood and grain patterns that have never been exposed. Sometimes it will move, and sometimes it wont.
It's not a sure thing, never was. The butts rarely move, but shafts are more likely to. Cut them fairly aggressively, let them sit for a while, and if they don't move, they're going to be good. If they warp, they'll likely continue to do so as you turn it down farther.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!
I don't mind leaving a fat taper on them if it would help avoid warping the shaft. Just smooth out the nicks and dents and I'll be happy.
After the junk I used to play with on the road, these will be cake.😂
What's an avg timeframe on letting the shaft rest after cutting??
Thanks for your reply.
 
Mensabum said:
What's an avg timeframe on letting the shaft rest after cutting??
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In my opinion
Minimum: days
Safer: weeks
Ideally: months
If moisture content is still changing, you'll definitely want more time between cuts.
There are exceptions, and in a pinch I've greatly accelerated the process successfully.
Very stable wood will normally stay straight.
Another factor is shrinkage. Depending on moisture content you will very likely see some shrinkage when fresh wood is exposed.
Shrinkage happens with time as well, which is another good reason to NOT rush the process.
 
Sheldon said:
In my opinion
Minimum: days
Safer: weeks
Ideally: months
If moisture content is still changing, you'll definitely want more time between cuts.
There are exceptions, and in a pinch I've greatly accelerated the process successfully.
Very stable wood will normally stay straight.
Another factor is shrinkage. Depending on moisture content you will very likely see some shrinkage when fresh wood is exposed.
Shrinkage happens with time as well, which is another good reason to NOT rush the process.
Click to expand...
Ty!!!👍🏻
 
muskyed said:
Fixed up a batch of cues for a bar we go to by our summer place last fall. When I took them, the owner told me to keep a few for my troubles and I chuckled as I told him I didn't need any. Anyway, put new tips on all, replaced some ferrules and cleaned them up a bit. There were 2 out of ten or so that were really straight and while I had done a lot of shaft and tip work, I had never done any joint work and wanted to try it, so as I had some parts to do it, I decided to give it a try with the parts I had. I know it's pretty basic as I didn't put a whole lot of thought in it, and I only had a couple days to finish it before we went back there. Anyway, turned out pretty good, shoots great, and is as straight or straighter than before. The owner was thrilled he had a bunch of cues again and when I showed him the one I made into a two piece he really liked it and told me to keep it, Anyway, I didn't notice any warping.
View attachment 874680View attachment 874682
Click to expand...
Very clean work. 😎👍
 
muskyed said:
I have to add, I really like this latest batch of Triangle tips I am using for these bar cues. On a recommendation I got from a forum member on here, I got a box of the 15mm ones. Not sure if I got lucky or what but the 15mm ones were much better than the 14mm ones I used previously. Every one used so far has been good and they make great tips for these bar cues. In fact, this batch would be a great tip for any cue.
They are a little more expensive as while the box says 50, there is only 40 tips in a box, but still cheaper as you don't have any bad ones, or at least I didn't.
Click to expand...
The 15mm triangles are the trick, to the best of my knowledge. Decent Triangles are as good as anything out there IMO.
 
Mensabum said:
Hey guys,
I have several old house cues I wanted converted and was told if you cut old maple like that, it will surely warp.
Seemed to go against common sense, if they hadn't warped in 50 years, why would cutting them in half do it??
Is this a bunch of bunk, or is there something to this??
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
If you have the ability, coring might help ease your mind as well.
 
GBCues said:
I, for one, would be reluctant to core these old butts. It is not unusual to find a metal dowel glued into the bottom 6 inches or so. They weren't designed to be removable.
Just sayin'
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A good magnet can find these pretty quick. Typically, the old house cues worth converting have a solid butt with un-modified end grain, so these will be safe as well. So far, the only cues I have seen a metal slug in the butt are cheap cues I wouldn't want to convert anyway.
 
GBCues said:
I, for one, would be reluctant to core these old butts. It is not unusual to find a metal dowel glued into the bottom 6 inches or so. They weren't designed to be removable.
Just sayin'
Click to expand...
I would core the shaft. Not the butt. Just saying. Thanks for the tip tho.
 
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