The weight bolt in my break stick sometimes works it way loose and have to retighten it. I'm afraid to really crank down on it as the threads in the butt are wood. Is there something I can apply to the threads (silicone adhesive, etc.) on either the weight bolt or butt to secure it so it won't loosen? TIA.
Weight bolt question
- Thread starter BogeyFree
- Start date
I wouldn’t worry about torquing it as tight as you can.
Hmmm...I would try a few things that would not keep me from removing it in the future if I wanted to. So nothing from the glue-like arena.
I would try some candle wax on the threads of the bolt and see how that goes. Maybe some plumbers tape might work. Something that will help fill in the threads on the bolt but not be permanent.
I would try some candle wax on the threads of the bolt and see how that goes. Maybe some plumbers tape might work. Something that will help fill in the threads on the bolt but not be permanent.
As stated above, shaft wax will keep the bolt tight yet allow you to remove it when necessary.
a couple drops of blue loctite. Not red.
I have several production cues that use a similar bolt. The ones Ive removed to adjust use what appears to be a clear silicone caulk. Looks like they put a healthy glob on the end of the bolt or maybe down in the hole with an extended nozzle and snug the bolt into the caulk.
I doubt locktite would be very reliable in wood and I personally wouldn't use wood glue or anything like an epoxy that dries hard.
The clear caulk works and I have also dropped a small rubber ball in the hole and snugged the bolt against it. Another trick is to drop a length of dowel rod in (silicone at both ends) before the bolt is installed if you want to shift the balance point rearward.
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I doubt locktite would be very reliable in wood and I personally wouldn't use wood glue or anything like an epoxy that dries hard.
The clear caulk works and I have also dropped a small rubber ball in the hole and snugged the bolt against it. Another trick is to drop a length of dowel rod in (silicone at both ends) before the bolt is installed if you want to shift the balance point rearward.
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The first thing to do is to try and keep everything original by just tightening down a bit more on the screw- it would not harm the wood threads. if that does not work ( don't see any reason why it would not) then I believe that some plumbers tape wound one time around the screw and then tighten securely into the threaded butt end will surely work for you.
IMO putting any sort of glue, loctite, etc. onto a bolt and into wood threads may be something you regret in the future or possibly near term.
IMO putting any sort of glue, loctite, etc. onto a bolt and into wood threads may be something you regret in the future or possibly near term.
dirtvictim
Ignore the entitled they haven't earned respect
Would not use glue of any kind. Do not over tighten, that may lead to cracking. The plumbers tape sounds like the best however I wouldn't put it on the whole bolt, just on the last few threads near the bolt head so it doesn't migrate down to the hole bottom where it may accumulate and cause binding problems later.
I agree with no glue but I am telling you that numerous new production cues that I have adjusted have what appears to be a dab of clear silicone and I have reapplied it or added it to all cuse with this weight bolt system.
None has ever come loose and none has ever been difficult to remove in the future.
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None has ever come loose and none has ever been difficult to remove in the future.
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20 years ago I used wood glue on my mcdermott's weight bolt and it is still tight.
Drop something in first then you can torque the bolt to that object. Pencil, packing peanuts, etc...
spring...
As mentioned by more than one member, wax.
Beeswax has been used by carpenters and cabinet makers for centuries with excellent results. An ounce should cost a couple bucks or so.
Or if that is difficult to locate, synthetic beeswax. Available at any hardware store for even less, in the form of a toilet ring.
Good luck.
Beeswax has been used by carpenters and cabinet makers for centuries with excellent results. An ounce should cost a couple bucks or so.
Or if that is difficult to locate, synthetic beeswax. Available at any hardware store for even less, in the form of a toilet ring.
Good luck.
There is a locktite, I think it may be purple. It fills up space and keeps things from vibrating loose at the same time makes metal on metal bolts easier to remove than nothing at all. Might fill the bill too.
First and foremost, I would think tighten down a bit more. This is a place where if you are uncomfortable with "seat of the pants" tightening, a torque wrench might come in handy. The wood in a cue isn't as fragile as some might think, remember wooden joints work just fine.
Hu
First and foremost, I would think tighten down a bit more. This is a place where if you are uncomfortable with "seat of the pants" tightening, a torque wrench might come in handy. The wood in a cue isn't as fragile as some might think, remember wooden joints work just fine.
Hu