does the weight and hit of a cue effect the ability to move the cue ball. is there a different technique different players use when stroking the cue that light or heavier would be better for playing style. or is the design of the cue taper wood type stiff verse softer play more roll in cue ball movent.
weight energy transfer
- Thread starter Jdm34
- Start date
Bear in mind that pool players have subjective as well as objective cue and stroke preferences. Some people like a "hard, solid hit" but some don't. Some people like vibration running through shaft and a flexible shaft, some a stiff shaft.
Experiment--figure out whether you prefer lighter cues or heavier, flexible or stiff shafts, soft or hard cue tips and why. Then you can begin to enhance your play and playing style.
Experiment--figure out whether you prefer lighter cues or heavier, flexible or stiff shafts, soft or hard cue tips and why. Then you can begin to enhance your play and playing style.
Sir, you are a man of perhaps too few words.
Force = mass(weight) x acceleration
How does one separate the two in a pool stroke?
How does one first hit the ball with velocity & no mass & then hit it with weight & no velocity?
Thanks in advance?
The velocity of the cue at contact determines energy transferred to the ball. Your arm movement determines that velocity, and you can change the velocity regardless of cue weight. The only time I can imagine the weight having any impact would be when you shoot with your maximum velocity. You can shoot soft or hard with the same cue and the same stroke by adjusting your forward stroke velocity.
Steve
Steve
Nice post Matt. Finding the right combination can take quite some time. But when you find it and feel it you can start having some real fun.
Thanks
John
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The problem with experimenting with cues is that most players don't have the luxury of buying several different types of cues and shafts. Using different house cues won't really give you an idea of the varieties of cues and shafts that can be purchased.
Also, a player's preferences can change as his or her game evolves.
Here are some basic rules of thumb about cues:
1.) Light cues --- under 19 ounces --- are easier to swing but harder to control. Snooker players use many body touch points to keep their light cues in a straight line when stroking.
2.) Light cues --- good for finessing shots, but due to more difficulty in swinging straight, are more demanding for ball-pocketing, especially pocketing pool balls (as opposed to snooker balls).
3.) Heavy cues --- Over approx 20 1/2 ounces --- They will swing straighter due to the extra weight, but can tire your arm out over long play. An ounce or two makes a big difference when something is hanging from your arm for a couple of hours.
4.) Heavy cues --- Ball pocketing will be easier but finessing shots will be more difficult.
That's the main reason why most players purchase cues weighted between 19 and 20 1/2 ounces.
5.) Balance points: Two cues with exactly the same weight can play differently due to their balance points. A cue with a forward balance point will play more like a light cue and a cue with a rear balance point will play more like a heavier cue.
Then you also have shafts and joints to consider. That's more complicated and involved, but one thing to remember:
Laminated, non deflection shafts, like Predator shafts, weigh less than solid wood shafts. So if you decide to buy one for your cue after using a maple shaft on that cue, it will feel lighter.
Also, a player's preferences can change as his or her game evolves.
Here are some basic rules of thumb about cues:
1.) Light cues --- under 19 ounces --- are easier to swing but harder to control. Snooker players use many body touch points to keep their light cues in a straight line when stroking.
2.) Light cues --- good for finessing shots, but due to more difficulty in swinging straight, are more demanding for ball-pocketing, especially pocketing pool balls (as opposed to snooker balls).
3.) Heavy cues --- Over approx 20 1/2 ounces --- They will swing straighter due to the extra weight, but can tire your arm out over long play. An ounce or two makes a big difference when something is hanging from your arm for a couple of hours.
4.) Heavy cues --- Ball pocketing will be easier but finessing shots will be more difficult.
That's the main reason why most players purchase cues weighted between 19 and 20 1/2 ounces.
5.) Balance points: Two cues with exactly the same weight can play differently due to their balance points. A cue with a forward balance point will play more like a light cue and a cue with a rear balance point will play more like a heavier cue.
Then you also have shafts and joints to consider. That's more complicated and involved, but one thing to remember:
Laminated, non deflection shafts, like Predator shafts, weigh less than solid wood shafts. So if you decide to buy one for your cue after using a maple shaft on that cue, it will feel lighter.
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I agree with everything Fran said. I apologize that I neglected to add that one ought to visit a great store or poolroom in person--like my friends at the Billiard Factory chain of stores--where at no cost you can try a wide variety of cue stick configurations to make an informed decision, before any purchase.
I appreciate the comment Fran made about a player's preference evolving over time. For that reason, if you are buying your first personal cue, keep your budget low as down the road, you might like a totally different cue. I tell newer players to get a $100 cue or so as a first-time buyer.
I appreciate the comment Fran made about a player's preference evolving over time. For that reason, if you are buying your first personal cue, keep your budget low as down the road, you might like a totally different cue. I tell newer players to get a $100 cue or so as a first-time buyer.
The type of cue doesn't matter. It's all personal preference. I like really light cues. John Smith likes really heavy cues. Does a certain weight cue make anyone get more action, pocket balls better? No.
Does a light cue, for example, make someone who likes light cues pocket balls better? Yes... Because they like it, have faith in it and trust it.
The ability to be able to move the cue ball around the table with ease is down to that person's technical ability, not because they're using X cue. I like light cues around 16-17oz that are back heavy (probably why all my cues are plain cues with a simple ebony butt), but could I play as well with a 22oz cue that's well balanced? Of course. My speed control would be off at first but I would learn to deal with it and adapt. My advice when picking a cue is to try a few out and go with one that feels the best to play with... Then keep playing with it and you will learn to love it. A cues stiffness, taper, tip size, type of tip doesn't make a difference, as long as you get used to all the previous.
Does a light cue, for example, make someone who likes light cues pocket balls better? Yes... Because they like it, have faith in it and trust it.
The ability to be able to move the cue ball around the table with ease is down to that person's technical ability, not because they're using X cue. I like light cues around 16-17oz that are back heavy (probably why all my cues are plain cues with a simple ebony butt), but could I play as well with a 22oz cue that's well balanced? Of course. My speed control would be off at first but I would learn to deal with it and adapt. My advice when picking a cue is to try a few out and go with one that feels the best to play with... Then keep playing with it and you will learn to love it. A cues stiffness, taper, tip size, type of tip doesn't make a difference, as long as you get used to all the previous.
I recall that your background is snooker but I don't know what your pool experience is. What is your experience with pool cues? Have you owned many pool cues? Do you play much pool?
To say that stiffness, taper, tip size and type of tip doesn't make a difference as long as you get used to it is indeed puzzling to me. I'm wondering where you're coming from with this type of advice.
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I play a lot of pool, own about 16 pool cues. I mentioned what I did based on it effecting being able to move the cue ball around the table. I can spin or generate the same amount of power with any cue. If it's something I'm not used to it may take a little time practicing with it.
Stephen Hendry won numerous world titles with a £50 cue. It was bent out of shape and dinged all over but he had only ever played with that cue. When it broke and he had to get a new one his game dropped massively... But he came back later to win more tournaments with it.
Stephen Hendry won numerous world titles with a £50 cue. It was bent out of shape and dinged all over but he had only ever played with that cue. When it broke and he had to get a new one his game dropped massively... But he came back later to win more tournaments with it.
Okay. I think --- here's the difference between what you're saying and what I'm saying. You're saying that it doesn't matter what cue you use. You'll get used to it.
I'm saying that it's better to understand a cue's strong points so you can choose one that compliments yours. To me, that makes more sense than going through the trouble to force yourself to get used to a cue that counteracts your style and preferences.
I doubt that Hendry just grabbed any cue to replace his old one.
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I don't think I explained my self very clearly. I wrote that the stiffness, taper etc doesn't matter. Which I believe it doesn't as long as you are comfortable with those characteristics. I mentioned about me liking light cues... I wouldn't ever switch to a heavy cue if mine broke... I'd get another light cue. Where the misunderstanding happened... I meant a cues characteristics doesn't effect the OP's question... Moving the cue ball around the table. No cue is better than another cue in that sense, they're all wood, they ll do the same job. I'm sure Hendry picked his current based on it being as close to his previous cue as possible, he learned to play with it in the end.
Pidge...You and I are in complete agreement. I think those things matter little also. The only misunderstanding is that Fran doesn't think light cues are easy to control...and we do. Just a difference of opinion. However, that said, my experience with 1000's of players, over decades of play, is that far more people now prefer a lighter weight cue. In fact, many pro players break with a lighter cue than they play with. If it were that difficult to control, or less effective, they wouldn't be doing it. 
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
You got the answer you were looking for...and it's correct! What more do you want? If you really want to learn something, cart your ass over to Dallas and have your eyes opened. Just FYI, if you go, go with an open mind. There are only two types of students...those that want to learn...and those that want to prove you wrong. Try to be the former, instead of the latter.
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
If you really want to learn something, cart your ass over to Dallas and have your eyes opened. Just FYI, if you go, go with an open mind. There are only two types of students...those that want to learn...and those that want to prove you wrong. Try to be the former, instead of the latter.Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
You got the answer you were looking for...and it's correct! What more do you want?
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Go reread Randy's statement, my question, & then quote the answer to my question.
You're blind attempt at defending your 'partner' is rather telling.
Force = Mass(weight) x Acceleration.
One without the other = NO FORCE.
So, no force FIRST... and then NO FORCE secondly = NO FORCE.
IF, Randy misspoke, then he should just say so & explain what he meant. IF he meant what he said, then perhaps he can & should explain. Although I can't imagine what that would be or how it could be logically & scientifically explained.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying, but...
If you shoot the same shot at the same stroke speed with different weight cues, the CB speed will be faster with the heavier cue. Cue weight (mass) is one of the two factors that determine CB speed (the other, of course, is stroke speed).
pj
chgo
While your statement is correct, in the case of shooting pool, the changes in velocity are much greater than the changes in cue weight. So, the change in velocity is what really matters when playing pool.
A pool ball weighs six ounces. One third of an 18 oz cue. Add an ounce to the cue, which is 1/6 the weight of the ob. Not a large change at all. Now do the same with the speed. Speed is a much larger influence than weight is.
Good point - velocity makes much more difference (exponential change in CB speed). But cue weight still matters enough to miss position if you're used to a different weight cue.
pj
chgo