Well, now I've went and done it.

muskyed

muskyed

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My 1st real screw up in 5 yrs or so since I've had the Midmerica lathe. Got this new Rhino Must carbon shaft about a week ago as a spare shaft for another Jacoby cue I picked up a month or so ago. I've been shooting it with their Kielwood shaft till now, and like it, but tried the Must and didn't like the tip as it was so hard, so I went out to the shop to quick change it out. Turns out nothing is quick when you want it to be.
So I was cutting the tip off and decided to stop about .010 before their white ferrule/vault plate, and went to back out the cutter and bang, plastic went flying.
Their white ferrule sticks out about 1/4" from the end of the shaft and for some reason, I briefly turned my head sideways and with the two wheels so close together, I turned the bed wheel to the left instead of the x axis inout wheel.
Thankfully the shaft was fine, but the white ferrule chipped back in one spot all the way to the shaft so I couldn't just face it off to put a tip on. I'm going to contact Rhino to see if they will sell me a new ferrule, but I doubt it, and I'm not about to send it back to them to get fixed, so if they won't sell me one, looks like I'll be getting practice on doing it myself. Not sure what to use, the original was quite soft, but I've seen where some on here have used Tomahawk so will probably try that. Live and learn I guess. Hope I don't do that again.
 
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muskyed said:
My 1st real screw up in 5 yrs or so since I've had the Midmerica lathe. Got this new Rhino Must carbon shaft about a week ago as a spare shaft for another Jacoby cue I picked up a month or so ago. I've been shooting it with their Kielwood shaft till now, and like it, but tried the Must and didn't like the tip as it was so hard, so I went out to the shop to quick change it out. Turns out nothing is quick when you want it to be.
So I was cutting the tip off and decided to stop about .010 before their white ferrule and went to back out the cutter and bang, plastic went flying.
Their white ferrule sticks out about 1/4" from the end of the shaft and for some reason, I briefly turned my head sideways and with the two wheels so close together, I turned the bed wheel to the left instead of the x axis inout wheel.
Thankfully the shaft was fine, but the white ferrule chipped back in one spot all the way to the shaft so I couldn't just face it off to put a tip on. I'm going to contact Rhino to see if they will sell me a new ferrule, but I doubt it, and I'm not about to send it back to them to get fixed, so if they won't sell me one, looks like I'll be getting practice on doing it myself. Not sure what to use, the original was quite soft, but I've seen where some on here have used Tomahawk so will probably try that. Live and learn I guess. Hope I don't do that again.
Click to expand...
I appreciate you relating the experience. Something to watch out for and keep us on our toes.
 
muskyed said:
My 1st real screw up in 5 yrs or so since I've had the Midmerica lathe. Got this new Rhino Must carbon shaft about a week ago as a spare shaft for another Jacoby cue I picked up a month or so ago. I've been shooting it with their Kielwood shaft till now, and like it, but tried the Must and didn't like the tip as it was so hard, so I went out to the shop to quick change it out. Turns out nothing is quick when you want it to be.
So I was cutting the tip off and decided to stop about .010 before their white ferrule and went to back out the cutter and bang, plastic went flying.
Their white ferrule sticks out about 1/4" from the end of the shaft and for some reason, I briefly turned my head sideways and with the two wheels so close together, I turned the bed wheel to the left instead of the x axis inout wheel.
Thankfully the shaft was fine, but the white ferrule chipped back in one spot all the way to the shaft so I couldn't just face it off to put a tip on. I'm going to contact Rhino to see if they will sell me a new ferrule, but I doubt it, and I'm not about to send it back to them to get fixed, so if they won't sell me one, looks like I'll be getting practice on doing it myself. Not sure what to use, the original was quite soft, but I've seen where some on here have used Tomahawk so will probably try that. Live and learn I guess. Hope I don't do that again.
Click to expand...
Did something similar to an original 314 shaft a couple years ago. Was trimming the tip sides to match the ferrule with a razor blade, it jumped and I hit the ferrule. The upside of not working on other peoples stuff, it was my shaft. I wouldn't want to have that conversation.
 
dendweller said:
Did something similar to an original 314 shaft a couple years ago. Was trimming the tip sides to match the ferrule with a razor blade, it jumped and I hit the ferrule. The upside of not working on other peoples stuff, it was my shaft. I wouldn't want to have that conversation.
Click to expand...
Up to now, I have really limited what I will agree to do on friends and friends of friends shafts. I will replace tips, ferrule and retaper wood shafts to a certain point.
Carbon shafts, just my own for now. Looks like I need to order one of those smaller boring bars to fix this shaft as the ones I have, I don't think are small enough.
This fix looks to be simple actually, I just need to order some materials, not sure if hydex or tomahawk, guess it really doesn’t matter that much between the two.
 
muskyed said:
contact Rhino to see if they will sell me a new ferrule,
Click to expand...

Rhino ferrule w specs 2.jpg
Rhino sells ferrules for $5. I got one before the Must shaft came out. Someday I may see if it works in a Cynergy.
 
Paul_#_ said:
View attachment 867749Rhino sells ferrules for $5. I got one before the Must shaft came out. Someday I may see if it works in a Cynergy.
Click to expand...
I saw those, but it seems everyone likes the tomahawk or Hydex 202 so I'm just going to make my own. I've got a 6 mm boring bit that looks like it will work and just found an inexpensive 5mm one I'm going to order, but also just for kicks just made a bit from a allen wrench to try. Doesn't look the prettiest but it's sharp. Also decided to order some Tomahawk.
1000010480.jpg
1000010479.jpg
 
SSDiver2112 said:
I use this one a lot.
https://a.co/d/2dKWVkp

I also just got these more recently for deeper applications

Tomahawk is great for this. Light weight but strong.

View attachment 867872

View attachment 867873
Click to expand...
I saw that single one and variations of it. Also I have that set. I used my homemade allen wrench today. It's amazing how well it worked.
One other thing I noticed, that Must shaft had a fairly firm foam up to about a 1/4" or less from the vault plate. I really thought the foam wouldn't go so far forward or be a lighter foam. The vault plate only went in what appeared to be .300 inch. I ordered some Tomahawk today. I assume you are using epoxy to glue this stuff in?
 
muskyed said:
I saw that single one and variations of it. Also I have that set. I used my homemade allen wrench today. It's amazing how well it worked.
One other thing I noticed, that Must shaft had a fairly firm foam up to about a 1/4" or less from the vault plate. I really thought the foam wouldn't go so far forward or be a lighter foam. The vault plate only went in what appeared to be .300 inch. I ordered some Tomahawk today. I assume you are using epoxy to glue this stuff in?
Click to expand...
I usually do .5” into the shaft but bore out some of it to lighten the load. Slow set epoxy with glue grooves.
 
I go in .550" and then sand the inner walls then wipe with acetone. I make my ferrule/vault plate a total inside length of .540" and drill a hole from the back of it about .450 deep and then cut grooves and then drill a hole thru the side wall 1/8th" dia. I use T-88 epoxy....really strong once cured.
 
I would say lighten also or maybe the glue will build up slightly in that area and create a ledge to further lock it in place? Or maybe just to keep people guessing, ha ha.
 
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